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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished mowing 4 of the 6 acres I needed to mow today and the tractor stalled while under WOT. I got it started, but have yet to get it running long enough to mow with. Tractor has 281.5 hours, and the mower is a 60"MM. After working on it for at least an hour, I tried to start it again and it barely run. Turned it off, let it sit, and it started. It will run at WOT with the mower removed, for about 3 minutes. Then it coughs and stalls again.

From what I can find, it is 1 of 3 probable causes:

1. Clogged fuel filter by the tank. The filter with the sediment bowl is perfectly clear. I even removed it to check and bled the system. No difference.
2. Bad electric fuel pump. Obviously a cheap Chinese pump. That's my guess.
3. Kinked hose. Just now showing up? I'll look again to be sure.
4. Injector pump. Doubtful, but with my luck.

Guesses? Suggestions?

Of course it's out of warranty now. Besides, in a previous post I bashed the dealer for work their tech did. The term "incompetent" didn't go over well for a 25 year veteran tech. I didn't care. It WAS incompetent!

I have WAY too many projects going to have my 2 year old tractor down right now. Any other suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks!
Wayne
 

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Sounds like a classic "bad fuel supply" problem. When is the last time you changed your filters? Have you checked your air filter?
 

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Is this the tractor that also has the small filter under the seat or hard to find place?
 

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Is this the tractor that also has the small filter under the seat or hard to find place?
Yes. It's under the left floor board near the tank.

If you look at the fuel lines in this picture (with the floor board removed) you'll get the idea of its location. You can also see the electric fuel pump behind the engine.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1410140735.144473.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Clogged fuel tank cap vent?

Loosen the fuel cap a little and see if it still does the same thing.
I didn't think about that one! Thanks!

Tonight I will check the vent and replace the filter under the floorboard.
It hasn't been changed, unless it was done at the 50 hour service.
The air filter needs to be replaced, but it's clean. The air flow indicator looks good. Maybe I'll change that out also.

I was thinking about adding a low pressure fuel gauge permanently where it is visible. Has anyone done this? Does anyone know what the pressure is feeding the injector pump?
 

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I was thinking about adding a low pressure fuel gauge permanently where it is visible. Has anyone done this? Does anyone know what the pressure is feeding the injector pump?
The tech manual gives a maximum pressure of 5.4psi (and a minimum flow rate of 3.4oz in 15 sec).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did buy a new "sediment" filter and a new air filter last night, but I didn't get a chance to get them on.Probably Thursday now. I did crack the fuel cap, but it barely started. About the 4th try it took off and ran OK. Hoping the sediment filter is the culprit!
 

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Sounds like a classic "bad fuel supply" problem. When is the last time you changed your filters? Have you checked your air filter?
Have you checked what's in your fuel cans or what's coming out of the dealer's diesel hose? I had a real bad time with the local MohmarMart's gas supply, water, gummy stuff, little chunks of "stuff".... It was cracked fuel tank filler fittings in the drive way!
 

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Same thing happened to me at just under 100 hours. I replaced both fuel filters, and problem solved. the small filter at the tank was full of a waxy substance.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I picked up the sediment filter last week along with a new outer air filter. I was able to get them on yesterday. Got soaked in diesel fuel changing the sediment filter, but it appears that was the issue. I was only able to mow for 5 minutes before I got a call and had to make a road trip. Hoping to give it a workout Wednesday evening.
I'll repost if I still have an issue, but it appears my problem is fixed.
Sure would be nice to have a fuel shutoff at the fuel tank outlet!
 

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Sure would be nice to have a fuel shutoff at the fuel tank outlet!

Glad you got 'er fixed!:thumbup1gif:

Though I plan to use "spring clamps" as hemostats, I often wonder what method(s) the trained tech's at the dealer shops use to stay dry...
 

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Good deal Mow_Diddley :thumbup1gif:
 

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Guess the moral of the story is... Clean fuel containers, Clean fuel from known sources, and keep the filters changed. Good thread we all can learn from...(Especially me!):yahoo:
 

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Glad you got 'er fixed!:thumbup1gif:

Though I plan to use "spring clamps" as hemostats, I often wonder what method(s) the trained tech's at the dealer shops use to stay dry...
Hose pinch off pliers. :good2:

I can't post a link from my phone, but a number if companies offer pliers designed to squeeze soft rubber hoses closed and clamp them.
 

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Glad you got it fixed, and I know what your mean about getting soaked with diesel fuel till I took some vicegrips and squeezed the line .
 

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Glad you got 'er fixed!:thumbup1gif:

Though I plan to use "spring clamps" as hemostats, I often wonder what method(s) the trained tech's at the dealer shops use to stay dry...
I'm back to the computer now, so here and here are some links to a variety of hose pinching pliers. Other companies offer similar products, you just have to decide what quality/ price point you're looking for.

Vise Grips will work, especially the needle nose type. The problem is that the jaws don't remain parallel as they close, so one side of the hose nearest the pivot is either not completely closed off or they have to be cranked down so tight that the pliers can damage the hose by over clamping it near the tip of the jaws. They can work though, you just have to be careful.
 

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I'm back to the computer now, so here and here are some links to a variety of hose pinching pliers. Other companies offer similar products, you just have to decide what quality/ price point you're looking for.

Vise Grips will work, especially the needle nose type. The problem is that the jaws don't remain parallel as they close, so one side of the hose nearest the pivot is either not completely closed off or they have to be cranked down so tight that the pliers can damage the hose by over clamping it near the tip of the jaws. They can work though, you just have to be careful.
Thanx for the links... But, for the amount of times I'd be using a pair of 1/4" clamps for that dumb in-line filter, I could buy another small needle nose Vise Grip and "pad the jaws" with.... something + duct tape just for the job. I do think the spring clamps I have would be toooooo powerful for fuel line, except for the plastic ones that "lock" at any pressure. I love "adapting" tools!:laugh:
 

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\I could buy another small needle nose Vise Grip and "pad the jaws" with.... something + duct tape just for the job. I do think the spring clamps I have would be toooooo powerful for fuel line, except for the plastic ones that "lock" at any pressure. I love "adapting" tools!:laugh:
Splitting a piece of hose to run along each of the jaws of the needle nose Vice Grips works well.
 
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