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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I'm new to this forum and seeking help with my 2012 1026R. I ran the tractor for a half of a day and parked it. All was good while it was running, even starting and stopping many times and shutting it off. Went out about 3 days later to use it and it would not start. The dash didn't light up , but the fuel pump was working. So I plugged in my battery charger and let it trickle over night. The next day I checked the battery and it had 13 volts, so I tried to start it and again NO Dashboard but the fuel pump was running and the lights worked. Checked all the fuses and relays, all were good, but still no power to the dash. I've traced all the wiring and all checks out. I have power everywhere, thru the ignition switch( which is brand new ) and thru both fusible links. Tested all the safety switches and all are good but still have ZERO POWER to the dash( NO LIGHTS, NOTHING ). If anyone has experienced this same situation, please let me know what you did to resolve this. Did you have to replace the dash? Is their a hidden relay I'm missing? Please Help. It's driving me crazy Thank you, Gary
 

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Take your battery to Advance or Autozone, or other business that can put a load test on your battery..


Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia

:wgtt:
 

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If it is a factory battery its probly done.


This is a very common occurance.

Like stated above...have it Load tested.
 

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Check the voltage while trying to start it, at rest voltage is meaningless.
 

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Take your battery to Advance or Autozone, or other business that can put a load test on your battery..

Took it to Advance Auto Parts to get load tested and it checks 12.89 volts and 596 cold cranking amps.

Welcome from Preston County, West
If it is a factory battery its probly done.


This is a very common occurance.

Like stated above...have it Load tested.
Check the voltage while trying to start it, at rest voltage is meaningless.
 

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Take your battery to Advance or Autozone, or other business that can put a load test on your battery..

I took it to Advance Auto Parts and had it load tested and it checked 12.89 volts and 596 cold cranking amps. So now what ?


Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia
 

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I missed the Ignition switch replacement...hmmm

Theres been a few of those issues lately as well.

The last one iirc...owner could hold key to one side and make things work...Not twist, just push in one direction or another.

I'll step aside for now....and do some digging.
 

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Take your battery to Advance or Autozone, or other business that can put a load test on your battery..

I took it to Advance Auto Parts and had it load tested and it checked 12.89 volts and 596 cold cranking amps. So now what ?


Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia
.......................

Seems like myself and others were WRONG... :dunno:

At least you know your battery is good , because as Kenny , the duke and myself have seen just checking voltage not under a load as good but testing under load can test as being a bad battery..


Now to your problem.

Reading your post you mentioned I have power everywhere, thru the ignition switch( which is brand new ) and thru both fusible links

Guessing switch was replaced,,,,, just wondering how long ago, and guessing no loose wires or wires shorting ..

Never had the dash out on the series 1 so sorry no help from me for dash.
No power to the dash.

Not sure on the 2305 JD had 4 or 5 diodes under the dash. :dunno::dunno:
 

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I can't find an accurate electrical schematic to look at but sounds like the ignition switch(I know its new) or power relay or associated wiring.
Something shook loose or broke a wire. One small grounding wire broke can cause problems just as power wire would.
 

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Can you be more specific and detailed with the symptoms? For example, you state it doesn't start. That can be it cranks, but doesn't start or doesn't crank at all. Which is it? The more detailed symptoms you provide, the better I'm able to assist you.

In the mean time, I've attached the wiring diagram.
 

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Looks like the turn signals will provide positive feedback if there is actual power coming out of the ignition switch. Turn the key over and turn one of the turn signals on. If the back light flashes then the ignition switch is good and should be providing power to the display unit. If no turn signal it is a faulty ignition switch or associated wiring. Again be sure your grounds are hooked up too.
 
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