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I have read some posts about the limitations of the 1025 drive line.
Does anyone have experience with a 5 foot Box Blade on a 1025/26?
I don't want to overwork my 1026 but I have about 25,000 square feet of yard that I want to
reshape and slope for proper drainage.
I'm looking at a KK 60 inch.
 

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Never used one on my 1025 but I bought a 72" with my 2038r and the salesman said they recommend a 48" for the 1025. I know they make a light duty 48".
 

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I have a 5 foot for mine. I went with that size with the idea that it would be wider than the track of the tractor wheels, and because all I planned to do with it was maintain and add some length to my several hundred feet of gravel driveway.

As plans changed and I began to use it to level out 5 acres to use as pastures, I found that the extra foot was just too much for the subcompact tractor, particularly when I was using the scarifiers with the box blade. I have sandy soil with a clay base in most areas only about 6-12 inches down.

As you have just around a half acre to work, I'd strongly recommend going with the 48 inch width, and accept having to do more passes. You may find that it takes about the same total seat time with a 48 inch versus a 60 inch, since you'll be able to move faster and more smoothly with the smaller size.

This might be one of those times, for 1/2 acre, to just hire someone to do the base work for you with heavier equipment, and use your 1 series for the finishing work and maintenance. I haven't used my 60 inch box blade since finishing leveling up my place about two years ago. The FEL alone does a good job for filling in and smoothing smaller areas as things settle in, and all I need for the finished gravel drive is a chain drag.
 

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Check out the 54” box blade that everythingsttachments make for a sub compact. It fits the 1025r really well.


‘17 1025r w/FEL
(2) 80 JD carts
18 JD cart
Land Pride 4’ land plane
Land Pride 1258 tiller
Land Pride FDR 1660
Frontier ss1023 broadcast spreader
Victory EF155 flail mower
 

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I have seen plenty of folks on here saying they have a 5 foot box blade. I have the 48" Frontier BB5048 for my 1025r. I guess it all depends on your soil or what material you are dealing with. I have mostly clay, and as long as I pay attention to what I'm doing it works well. But when I fill up the box it can bring things to a halt.
 

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after owning a 48" for our 1025r, I wish I had gotten a 54". Haven't really used the 48" much, did spread (2) 14 ton loads of gravel with it and the 1025r did fine, pulling the 48" box blade full of gravel.

I would like a 54" sometimes in order to give ample coverage on the back wheels, and to provide an offset when working near the edge of a house.
 

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I have a Land Pride 54" blade and works perfect. I have a 2025r now but my 1026r would still get bogged down sometimes with heavy moist dirt. I would not go bigger as it would just add more friction. Just my experience. I leveled about 30 cu yards of soil in my backyard with mine and I think anything bigger and it would have been more difficult. I got my little machine stuck a couple times as I chewed off a bit more dirt than it could handle and had to drop the blade to get out. Remember the bigger the blade the more dirt it will hold, or heavier it will be!
 

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I can't speak from experience about a 5' blade, but I picked up a lightly used 4' Frontier 5048 box blade.

I am 100% satisfied with it , and have no complaints. Here are my thoughts after using it extensively for my application - taking down the bank that leads up to an old bank barn foundation - lot's of rocks between the size of a softball and a football. So far, I have gone down about 2-3 feet, but once the heat of summer sets in, I will probably let it rest until fall.

  • The 4' BB is perfectly matched to the series 1; 5' would be too much.
  • A 54" may work, but I'm not so sure that it would offer me any advantage. It might get me closer to the foundation wall, but the rippers are inset, so I doubt that it would dig any closer than the 48" BB does, and the extra capacity may just bog the tractor down quicker. I used the FEL with a HH tooth bar for getting close to the wall.
  • A full 4' box can stop the series 1. I need to use 4WD and sometimes I have to use the rear differential lock. Other times, I just have to back up a few inches and raise the BB a bit to release some of the contents.
  • I don't think that a heavier unit would dig any better. It's all about where the ripper hits the rock that determines whether it rides over it or pulls it out. (or stops the tractor.)
  • The Frontier blade is well made. It isn't a light duty unit, but doesn't appear to be super heavy duty either. However, it is surely going to outlast me and my tractor. I can't imagine that 25 HP could pull it apart.
  • The trick is patience - don't get too aggressive with the ripper shanks. After several passes that don't seem to do much, all of a sudden the magic happens and the box starts filling up.
  • It took me a while to get the hang of how the ripper shanks, top link, and front and rear blades interact. Once I had that figured out, I could really move some dirt and redistribute it where I wanted it. (Now, if only I had a hydraulic top-n-tilt...)
  • The 5048L is (supposedly) designed for the limited cat 1. This enables me to lift the BB high enough off the ground to empty the box. I need every inch of lift that it offers.
If I had to do it all over again, and I couldn't find a good deal on a used blade, I would probably buy one of the EA models designed for a sub-compact. I wouldn't buy the extreme duty model, because as I noted above, more weight would not have helped me and would reduce the payload that the 1025R could move. I would favor one of the models designed for a subcompact due to the higher lift capability.

A little off topic - I found that my landscape rake with gauge wheels made short work of cleaning up rocks and doing the final grooming before putting down grass seed. The box blade and landscape rake are a perfect combination for my project.
 

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I have a 5' BB for my 1026. Bought it when I bought my 2210 I had before. With my 1026 I put the shanks all the way down, tilted the BB so I could get the shanks as deep as possible and ripped up virgin ground. I didn't move any of the ground, just ripped it. 1026 did a great job of it. I've never filled the box up more then ¾ of the way and so far didn't have a problem but that was just my driveway. If I had a do over, I'd probably go with the 54" BB.
 

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I can't speak from experience about a 5' blade, but I picked up a lightly used 4' Frontier 5048 box blade.

I am 100% satisfied with it , and have no complaints. Here are my thoughts after using it extensively for my application - taking down the bank that leads up to an old bank barn foundation - lot's of rocks between the size of a softball and a football. So far, I have gone down about 2-3 feet, but once the heat of summer sets in, I will probably let it rest until fall.

  • The 4' BB is perfectly matched to the series 1; 5' would be too much.
  • A 54" may work, but I'm not so sure that it would offer me any advantage. It might get me closer to the foundation wall, but the rippers are inset, so I doubt that it would dig any closer than the 48" BB does, and the extra capacity may just bog the tractor down quicker. I used the FEL with a HH tooth bar for getting close to the wall.
  • A full 4' box can stop the series 1. I need to use 4WD and sometimes I have to use the rear differential lock. Other times, I just have to back up a few inches and raise the BB a bit to release some of the contents.
  • I don't think that a heavier unit would dig any better. It's all about where the ripper hits the rock that determines whether it rides over it or pulls it out. (or stops the tractor.)
  • The Frontier blade is well made. It isn't a light duty unit, but doesn't appear to be super heavy duty either. However, it is surely going to outlast me and my tractor. I can't imagine that 25 HP could pull it apart.
  • The trick is patience - don't get too aggressive with the ripper shanks. After several passes that don't seem to do much, all of a sudden the magic happens and the box starts filling up.
  • It took me a while to get the hang of how the ripper shanks, top link, and front and rear blades interact. Once I had that figured out, I could really move some dirt and redistribute it where I wanted it. (Now, if only I had a hydraulic top-n-tilt...)
  • The 5048L is (supposedly) designed for the limited cat 1. This enables me to lift the BB high enough off the ground to empty the box. I need every inch of lift that it offers.
If I had to do it all over again, and I couldn't find a good deal on a used blade, I would probably buy one of the EA models designed for a sub-compact. I wouldn't buy the extreme duty model, because as I noted above, more weight would not have helped me and would reduce the payload that the 1025R could move. I would favor one of the models designed for a subcompact due to the higher lift capability.

A little off topic - I found that my landscape rake with gauge wheels made short work of cleaning up rocks and doing the final grooming before putting down grass seed. The box blade and landscape rake are a perfect combination for my project.
I have the BB5048 and I love it. Keyboard Jungle has this summed up very nicely. I guess it all depends too on how much weight you have on the tractor.. With my loader, 53" bucket, wheel weights and bio ballast in the rear tires PLUS ME.. I have no issues with a full box blade of dirt or gravel - pa topsoil. When I was making my driveway wider I used the rippers at full length to loosen up the ground on a pass or two then turned and dug out with the loader. The box would fill up with dirt to the point it would fall out the back of the box and the 1025 kept on movin! I didn't have an issue even with hitting a few bricks along the way that were buried from a prior structure of some kind. 4wd is a BIG help for sure! As much as I have used this box so far I haven't had the tractor stopped by it YET.

AND YES! for the record I had a short top link pin that wasn't held securely.. I was just tinkering at the time and have since got a real pin in there. :knownothing:
 

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As plans changed and I began to use it to level out 5 acres to use as pastures, I found that the extra foot was just too much for the subcompact tractor, particularly when I was using the scarifiers with the box blade. I have sandy soil with a clay base in most areas only about 6-12 inches down.
I failed to add that my land was a typical mixed southern pine forest before it was logged and clear cut. As such, it was also full of roots. After having them stop the tractor and box blade dead in its tracks multiple times, I resorted to a subsoiler to try to drag them out of the ground. Success rate with that was pretty poor. I did discover that once the subsoiler hooked on a big root, it would tend to lift the front end of the 1025 right off the ground. That was when I hired a guy with a yellow bulldozer and really big green tractor to take over.

:greentractorride:
 
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