Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

My new 1026r is due to be delivered tomorrow! Very exciting!

I bought it with the 60" deck, H120 loader with 53" bucket, 47" snowblower, and bagger.

I ended up with a great deal because the blower and bagger are both used. All the attaching parts and related are new for both, but the rest being used saved me a ton of money.

Anyway, I've been trying to figure out how to handle storage for the winter. I plan to build a large shed or barn next year, but I need some kind of cover this year. I've been looking at the shelterlogic garage in a box at tractor supply, but I'm not impressed with the reviews - especially the snow handling.

So... I've been thinking about building a simple frame out of black or galvanized pipe, and covering it with a tarp. It seems like 3/4" pipe would be much stronger than the flimsy tubing used in the shelterlogic kits.

The shelterlogic "cover" is the expensive part, but it apparently isn't very robust. I think a good heavy-duty tarp should last through the winter and should cost much less...

My plan is to boot the structure to a couple of railroad ties and cover the top with the tarp. The main purpose will be to keep the snow off the tractor to make things easier for snowblowing...

Size will be around 10' wide by 15'-20' long (depending on the tractor length with the blower attached).

So... Anyone have any thoughts or opinions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,632 Posts
Pipe may work fine. But I would use 2x4s. 8x14 should work for the 1026/blower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Pipe may work fine. But I would use 2x4s. 8x14 should work for the 1026/blower.
You know, I may be overthinking this. 2x4s would certainly be cheaper, but they seem more "permanent" for some reason.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,565 Posts
You may want to double up on the tarp on the roof. If this is temporary, I would think cheap and easy to remove the materials. What are you going to do with rusted up black pipe? Not only did it cost more, but you have to take it to the recycle shop to get rid of it. It also makes adding a little structure to the roof harder and it makes it harder to add more pieces to if you find you built it a little light.

Take pictures of whatever you do and let us know how you built it! Its your invention and there is no wrong way to do it!
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
36,620 Posts
I'd get a small carport and call it a day. You'll have it for years, no wasted money.

Its your invention and there is no wrong way to do it!
Brian, I sure wish some one would tell my wife that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Black Iron pipe is prone to rust from condensation cooling and warming and just by its nature ,your way better off IMO using galv. pipe , domestic water lines in Canada were ran for years with galv.pipe ....it is now ilegal to run domestic water in anything but copper or plastics or ductile iron.But the galv. piping will last and not leave rusty water drops on your nice new tractor..Cheers:bye:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,064 Posts
If you want a good tarp that will hold up, buy a lumber tarp. You'll have to go to a place that sells semi truck stuff, like a big trailer dealer. Semi truck steel and lumber tarps are not just big rectangles, they have side pieces that hang down to cover the sides, front, and rear of the load. Lumber tarps usually have 8 foot sides, steel tarps usually only have 4 foot sides. They'll be 8 feet wide, and a variety of lengths. Lumber tarps are usually longer than steel tarps as well, because you can get more lumber than steel on a trailer without being overweight.

They will hold up, no question. Mine is almost 3/16" thick. It's heavy, and they can be expensive. However, if you decide to build a solid structure later you can sell the used lumber tarp and get quite a bit of your money back. They'll also have lots of D rings sewn into the outside to make securing it easier.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
14,371 Posts
Like the others have said use 2x4 to built frame say 4' centers for now. then next summer reuse 2x4. put everything together with screws easy to tear apart then. I wouldn't use pipe at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Like the others have said use 2x4 to built frame say 4' centers for now. then next summer reuse 2x4. put everything together with screws easy to tear apart then. I wouldn't use pipe at all.
Yeah, this is definitely the way to go. Way cheaper and much easier to tear down in the spring.

Thanks for the advice!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top