1026R TLB to be delivered end of March, seeking info about trailer

What you haul it on is going to be determined by if you want to transport it with a loader and ballast box??

I think mine will fit on a small 5' x 8' trailer if I back it on. But will need a much larger trailer to move it with a loader and ballast box not to mention it wont fit with a mower deck on something as narrow as mine.

I dont know how much land you plan on using the trailer on but the problem is if you get a trailer big enough to haul the tractor well, its almost to big to use around the yard.


I think a heavy axle trailer that is 6' x 10' could be used for both if a guy was creative on where you sit the bucket.

Congratulations on your new 1026R!!

I'm assuming that you're getting a backhoe too (TLB), which will make your tractor even longer. When the dealer delivered my tractor, he advised me to always put the FEL and BH bucket down onto the deck of the trailer, less stress when bouncing around. I was estimating the size of a new shed and the total length of my tractor was longer than 15 feet, probably closer to 16 feet long with FEL and BH bucket down. I could probably save a little on length if I kept the bucket up and more if I swung it to the side. But for storage I like having as much weight off the tires as possible, so I'm going for a longer shed.

Weightwise, the 260BH is just over 600 lbs and the 1026R with FEL is (I believe) about 1400 -1450 or so.

Just my 2 cents, Good Luck!

Let me join Tomfive in congratulating you on your 1026R. You're gonna' really like it! But his estimate of weights may be conservative . . . :unknown: :think: :read:

Tomfive said:

Weightwise, the 260BH is just over 600 lbs and the 1026R with FEL is (I believe) about 1400 -1450 or so.

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The 1026R shipping weight is listed at 1344 pounds. FEL weight is 541 pounds for a total of about 1885 pounds. Some of us add a
60" mower at a weight of about 325 pounds. Throw in sixty pounds for fuel & water and you reach 2270 pounds. Dunno' what a backhoe weighs.

Don't get a flimsy trailer. This is a serious piece of tractor you're gonna' haul . . . need a substantial trailer to do the job.

And by the way . . . . . :wgtt:

Welcome to GTT!

Congrats on the new tractor!:yahoo:

I use a 20' 10,400 gvw, dual axle flatbed trailer w/ removable side rails to tote mine around. It's overkill, but the trailer is used for many other things. IMO get a bigger trailer than you think you'll initially need. You'll thank yourself later when you need it.

Thanks

I am considering a tandem axle trailer, at least 16 feet long, brakes on at least one axle. I appreciate all the input.

Get brakes on all axles

Brakes on both axles is much better IMO. It's a cheap upgrade for more redundancy and piece of mind. It cost me $200 installed IIRC to upgrade to brakes on both axles. Cheap insurance:good2:

Thanks Ralph for correcting me on the weights. I was never sure if the weights I found included the FEL or not.

I just confirmed the 260 BH weighs 610 lbs with the 16" bucket.

dieselshadow said:

Congrats on the new tractor!:yahoo:

I use a 20' 10,400 gvw, dual axle flatbed trailer w/ removable side rails to tote mine around. It's overkill, but the trailer is used for many other things. IMO get a bigger trailer than you think you'll initially need. You'll thank yourself later when you need it.

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This. Work trucks and trailers are a bit of a passion for me. I'm not terribly familiar with the 1026R, but it sounds like from what the other folks have said it will weigh about 3,000-3,200 lbs with the loader, backhoe, fuel, tools, grease, dirt and mud all ready to go. Not a huge load. The key is length, I'd be looking at a 16' trailer if not a little longer. The loader and backhoe buckets both need to sit on the deck of the trailer when you haul it. It's less stressful on the machine, less risky if a hydraulic line fails, and technically the 'by the book' way to do it. You may also need a little room to move the tractor forward or back on the deck to balance the weight properly, but with a 3,000 lb machine behind an F-250 you can get by if it sits a little forward. Weight wise, most bumper pull tandem axle trailers will weigh 2,000-2,500 lbs. Some are a bit less, but worst case scenario would be a 2,500 lb trailer with a 3,000 lb machine on it for a total weight of 5,500 lbs. A 7,000 lb trailer sounds like plenty, which is good because they're the easiest and least expensive tandem axle trailers to find. I would avoid the 'landscape' type trailers with non removable sides, just because you'll find all sort of other things you want to do with the trailer once you have it, and they get in the way for a lot of stuff.

Really though, you have a pretty light machine and plenty of tow vehicle for it. Just about any 16', 7,000lb trailer would do what you wanted well enough, but I might hold out for an 18' without the side rails. I bought one like that (18', 16' flat with a 2' dovetail) for about $900.00 a year or so ago used. They're out there, just keep an eye on your local classifieds.

Not that any of that matters. As they say, pictures or it didn't happen! :lol:

I brought my 1026r FEL and backhoe home on a 14 ft aluma trailer with room to spare and weight to spare. This is a single axle trailer with 3500 lb axle and it dose not have brakes. My Dodge 250 stops it just fine. I think that your requirement for hauling dirt puts you in the two axle trailer with brakes.

I use a 20' 10,000 gvw trailer. 17' flat , 3' dovetail.

They make some really nice dump trailers that include ramps to load equipment, but they are pricey. Good investment though if you plan to haul a lot of material and have low enough sides so the 1026R can load it also.

by what you are asking, i think you need a dump trailer. there are plenty of 2 axle dumps available that have loading ramps.

If you have a bh you can back the tractor on and set the bucket right behind the tongue jack over the front wall of the trailer. the front bucket can rest on the rear "tailgate" of the dump trailer if needed.

I have also seen a few trailers with a rack of sorts built to rest the bucket on up higher so it would clear the back of the truck during a turn.

I would say the best way to determine what you need is to take some good measurements of your machine after you have it. then procede to a good trailer dealer. I would think for what you would look to be dropping they would let you take it home, or at least take it there for you if close so you could test fit the machine.

-Aaron

Thanks for the input

I appreciate everyone's input about the trailer. I think I'll take delivery, make a few measurements and go with tandem axles, brakes on both axles and at least 18 feet. I'll post pics when everything shows up at the house. Thanks again.

I just picked up a two year old trailer for my 2320. It is 14' long and 7' wide between the wheels. Tandem axle with electric brakes on the rear. Split fold down ramp. I hauled 4 yards of gravel on Friday and didn't know it was there.

My tow vehicle is a 2011 F150 with Eco boost V6.

Btw, the trailer is JD green...

Pics tomorrow...

Owning A Trailer Is Like Having a Pool

It's amazing how many friends that come calling, when you have a trailer. It's worth noting the liability issues of lending out equipment. Does the borrowing party have insurance that extends to a towed trailer? Are you sure? Different Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) have differing requirements in different states concerning trailers. It's wise to know your states DMV requirements. Axle brakes may or may not be required up to "X" weight trailer and may or may not be required on both axles. Passenger tires and trailer tires are not the same. Beware of load/speed ratings for tires. Hooking up safety chains "X" style will support a jumped hitch until you can get stopped. It's wise to have a spare, chocks, for the trailer along with a jack and iron to change it. Murphy's Law loves to strike trailers without a spare. It's important to know how to properly tie down/chain down a load. That's nothing to do on the cheap. Some loads are required to be covered. Here in Washington State the maximum speed limit for any vehicle towing a trailer is 60 MPH. It never hurts to be safe

A fith wheel can fix that....

Barry said:

It's amazing how many friends that come calling, when you have a trailer. It's worth noting the liability issues of lending out equipment. Does the borrowing party have insurance that extends to a towed trailer? Are you sure? Different Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) have differing requirements in different states concerning trailers. It's wise to know your states DMV requirements. Axle brakes may or may not be required up to "X" weight trailer and may or may not be required on both axles. Passenger tires and trailer tires are not the same. Beware of load/speed ratings for tires. Hooking up safety chains "X" style will support a jumped hitch until you can get stopped. It's wise to have a spare, chocks, for the trailer along with a jack and iron to change it. Murphy's Law loves to strike trailers without a spare. It's important to know how to properly tie down/chain down a load. That's nothing to do on the cheap. Some loads are required to be covered. Here in Washington State the maximum speed limit for any vehicle towing a trailer is 60 MPH. It never hurts to be safe

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About folks always wanting to borrow a trailer. A friend of mine suggested getting a fifth wheel just because it really limits the number of folks that are set up to use it which limits the number of folks who ask to borrow it... I didn't take the advice and actually encourage folks to borrow my trailers. My thought process is that before I had them I borrowed a trailer plenty of times and was thankful for it, kind of a payback thing I guess. Also, most trailers die of neglect from sitting, very few get "worn out". I'd rather have my trailers moving as much as possible. That's just me though and other than a little scratched piant I've never been made to regret it.

Barry, you are right on checking state laws as far as brakes and such as it does vary widely and can cause you trouble if something goes wrong. Supprisingly, in my experience anyhow, trailer sales folks are about the worst source of information in this area, I had many of them happy to sell me a trailer that was NOT legal for use as configured in my state. All of whom assured me it would be fine!

I carry full coverage with road side assistance on my trailers through my auto insurance. It covers them against damage and also towing for the trailer if the tow vehicle has a problem, something most auto policies don't. Sure they'll tow the truck, but the trailer gets left on the side of the road...not cool. It costs $17/year for two trailers and in my mind is well worth it.

To the OP, congrats and good luck with your new "tools":drinks:

P.S. Here is a pic of my previous 2210 in a PJ 14' 14K lb dump trailer. This is how I got it around untill I got the flat trailer and will agree with what was said in other posts, if you are going to move any amount of stone, dirt, or other loose material, a dump trailer is worth it's weight in gold!

Kelly

Whito123 said:

I just picked up a two year old trailer for my 2320. It is 14' long and 7' wide between the wheels. Tandem axle with electric brakes on the rear. Split fold down ramp. I hauled 4 yards of gravel on Friday and didn't know it was there.

My tow vehicle is a 2011 F150 with Eco boost V6.

Btw, the trailer is JD green...

Pics tomorrow...

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Whito:

I like the idea of the Eco Boost. How is it towing your trailer? Is the estiimated mileage realistic?

Thanks,
Don

Here's what my 2320 with loader looks like on the 14' trailer... lots of room...

Thats a nice size of trailer.