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Discussion Starter #1
A quick question, is bumping the power back up an easy plug and play,
or a computer change?:gizmo:
 

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Forget about that 1hp...I've heard the cold starts were a whole lot better on the 1026....but I've wondered this myself.
 
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If I remember right anything much below 50 and they both make lots of smoke and noise. My 1026R lives in a heated garage that never gets below 50. :thumbup1gif: I've also got the JD block heater just in case. That seams to heat things up real quick.

If you look at what the 1st gen 1023E makes and the current 1025R it's almost a wash. Sort of like the 1026R and the 1025R.

-636
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, My tractor is kept indoors, warms up fast, Just curious about the detune part
my sales man said in the difference of the 1026 and 1025 because of the EPA thing
on size and horsepower.

I am just sitting here thinking over things I have been mulling over since I bought her.
Thanks guys.
:bigthumb:
 

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Yes, My tractor is kept indoors, warms up fast, Just curious about the detune part
my sales man said in the difference of the 1026 and 1025 because of the EPA thing
on size and horsepower.

I am just sitting here thinking over things I have been mulling over since I bought her.
Thanks guys.
:bigthumb:
Something I've been curious about too. Not that I need... I would just want. Pure curiosity past that point. I don't have enough diesel experience to even know how these things work but like the idea of "Unlocking" something that was detuned due to EPA restrictions.
 

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Yes, My tractor is kept indoors, warms up fast, Just curious about the detune part
my sales man said in the difference of the 1026 and 1025 because of the EPA thing
on size and horsepower.

I am just sitting here thinking over things I have been mulling over since I bought her.
Thanks guys.
:bigthumb:
The reason for the 25 HP rating is, the tier 4 requirement only effects engines over 25 HP. So, lowering them to 25 HP allowed them to keep them tier III.
 
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If I remember right anything much below 50 and they both make lots of smoke and noise. My 1026R lives in a heated garage that never gets below 50. :thumbup1gif: I've also got the JD block heater just in case. That seams to heat things up real quick.

If you look at what the 1st gen 1023E makes and the current 1025R it's almost a wash. Sort of like the 1026R and the 1025R.

-636
As 636 said it's really a near wash anyway, they just rounded some #'s different and changed the name to slide in under the new restrictions. Even if there really was a FULL 1HP difference between then it would make next to no difference in ability or feel during operation as the new modes is likely to be a few %more efficient with its "25" HP vs the old one and its "26" so your likely better off with the newer model regardless.
 

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One of you rivet counters will correct me I'm sure. ( Not a bad thing!) The diff between the 26 and 25 was nothing more than bore and stroke. Less stroke but 1mm more bore. Dropped it to 25hp to sneek in under the final 4 requirements. What will they actually dyno to at the PTO? Shhh...

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Also as a side note.. 1hp aint crap. All the 1 series are mechanical injected, no computer. Can you hop it up? Sure. Is it worth it? Not in my opinion. Why sacrifice bullet proof longevity for a couple HP. I've seen these same basic engines in gen sets and light towers go 20k before major failure. The hyd pumps and hydro motors only flow so much. The systems are perfectly matched to the power plants and attachments. The engine is there for one reason.. To produce power to pumps and motors.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Yep, my 1025 runs so nice, I'd never start tinkering with the tuning for 1hp. I'd bet "seat of the pants" you'd be hard-pressed to tell a 1023 from a 1025 in power.
 
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