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Gentlemen,

I've just completed my 50 hour maintenance routine myself. I noticed splines on the the main shaft running from the engine to the transmission are not well engaged. I havent been able to get an accurate measurement of spline engagement however I roughly measured it with a piece of wire and its between 3/8" and 1/2" of engagement between the transmission input spline and the mating spline of the universal joint casting.

I've reported it to my Dealer. They checked with JD and there are no recalls however the dealer locally reported other 1026R's on the lot being similar in appearance. Take a look at your own tractors. We may have a first model year problem and maybe there is no problem at all. What do the 2305's/2320's etc. look like? Is this a common issue? I hate it when a dealer tells me "Yeah, they're all like that!!"

Why do I consider this to be an issue? Well for starters to replace this splined driveshaft joint involves removing the transmission from the frame or removing the engine to get enough clearance to remove/replace the drive shaft. When the spline wears, (it will if there is only marginal spline engagement) combined with universal joint wear, which will accelerate spline wear, there could be a situation where the warranty is over and the repair bill could be hefty, particularly if the input shaft to the transmission is damaged.

Check yours and post your findings.

Thanks
G
 

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While I don't have a measurement for you, I can say that my 2305 does not look like that.
 

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Good post, think I'll follow along.
 

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1026R transmission shaft

GNG, mine is the same way. While laying on the shop floor with a flashlight, I was getting myself familiar with the mechanics of the 1026. I was too concerned to find the drive shaft coupler just barely attached to the tran shaft. I hope we can find out if this is standard, or if we need the dealers to adjust them. I'd do it myself if it were ok with the warranty and all. Please keep us posted Thanks KHOP
 

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Looks like they are all different.

The three models you are talking about are all different. Here are the part diagrams for each. I am thinking the 2305 and 2320 are OK. I do not recall this being an issue when looking at my 2305.
 

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Yikes! I haven't even had my 1026R delivered yet, and now this has me worried.

It appears on Bob's (Jrs1959) photo that you may be able to measure engagement by sticking something through the spider side of the yoke. It looks like the U-joint has the female spline cut right through, it'll be a rough measurement but you can probably get a good idea of how far the shaft is inserted.
 
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Wow, great post!

I suggest anybody with one of these units contact the dealer to let them know you demand answers...
 

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Have to wonder if JD used the same Driveshaft for both the 1026 and the 2320? They do however have different part numbers.
 

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Yikes! I haven't even had my 1026R delivered yet, and now this has me worried.

It appears on Bob's (Jrs1959) photo that you may be able to measure engagement by sticking something through the spider side of the yoke. It looks like the U-joint has the female spline cut right through, it'll be a rough measurement but you can probably get a good idea of how far the shaft is inserted.
Will take a measurement tonight and update.........That photo was taken back during delivery to show lack of fan. It looked odd then but didn't really think much of it until this thread started. The more I look at the photo, the less I believe is actually engaged!!!!
 

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It appears on Bob's (Jrs1959) photo that you may be able to measure engagement by sticking something through the spider side of the yoke. It looks like the U-joint has the female spline cut right through, it'll be a rough measurement but you can probably get a good idea of how far the shaft is inserted.
Think thats what G meant when he wrote in the first post he used a wire:

I havent been able to get an accurate measurement of spline engagement however I roughly measured it with a piece of wire and its between 3/8" and 1/2" of engagement
 

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Think thats what G meant when he wrote in the first post he used a wire:
DUH!:bash: Maybe if I learned how to read.
 

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input shaft

To wet to crawl under my 1026 tonight. I am curious (worried) enough to use a tarp tomorrow though. :(
 

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Has been a while since I was involved in this type of thing but . . . did a Google search on "driveshaft spline engagement". The one definitive statement I found says "Minimum safe engagement on any spline drive is 2X the diameter."

Pictures in this thread seem to indicate we don't have that much engagement . . . hard to say for sure . . . :unknown:

Ralph
 

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I just spent a bunch of time researching this in the tech manual. It barely tells you anything about the engine driveshaft. The MFWD driveshaft is the same way, about halfway engaged.:think:

gngyoung, both driveshafts are designed to be removed without large component removal. The engine has a coupling on it that you remove 3 bolts from, and then slide the shaft off of the trans splines. The MFWD, you disconnect the front yoke and then slide it off the trans output shaft.:thumbup1gif:

I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow:question:
 

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Had a look at the driveshaft when I got home! It's important to note that the photo I posted above creates some optical issues as the actual shaft is likely no larger than 1/2 inch diameter, although it appears larger in the photo.

I measured down the spline and found the engagement is over half the distance available....likely in the 1 and 1/4 range. It certainly looks odd but checking the MFWD shaft, a similiar "look" is present as if there's too much leftover shaft. Not sure why this design is incorporated of course.

IMO...its within the 2x shaft dimension reference that I also found online and noted above....
 

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I measured down the spline and found the engagement is over half the distance available....likely in the 1 and 1/4 range. It certainly looks odd but checking the MFWD shaft, a similiar "look" is present as if there's too much leftover shaft. Not sure why this design is incorporated of course.
The 1-1/4" engagement makes me feel better, though more would be better. Not having any hardware to look at:cry:, I looked at Randy's part diagrams a little closer and came up with this theory.

The 1026R and 2305 driveshafts look as if they are solid shafts with splines on both ends. It appears they are thru pinned (held in place with a snap ring) at the engine end and are free floating on the transmission end. Could it be that to remove the drive shaft without moving the engine or transmission, you could simply move the snap ring, drive out the pin, then simply slide the whole shaft onto the "unused" section of the tranny shaft to clear the stubby engine spline and then off the tranny end?

Not sure why the extra shaft is not seen on Randy's 2305, other than it may be hidden by the cooling fan assembly.

The diagram of the 2320 seems to have 2 different shafts available, one solid and one variable length. The variable length shaft is clamped at both ends.

I'd be interested if someone can tell me if the MFWD on the 1026R shaft is also solid and pinned at one end.

This is just my theory (and now wish I had my 1026R even more). Feel free to criticize.
 

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That is exactly how the MFWD shaft is removed. Remove the snap ring, drive out the pin, slide shaft towards transmission. The engine shaft has a vibration isolation coupling on the flywheel. To remove it you remove three bolts and slide the shaft towards the transmission, tilt the shaft, then slide the assembly off of the trans input shaft.

I did post a shorter description earlier for you. I can't post actual excerpts from the manual like some other posters here. But I can tell you what the manual says.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thanks Dieselshadow. So the extra spline is probably there for driveshaft removal, and if the engagement is adequate, then all should be good?
 

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Transmission Shaft

I keep telling myself, this shaft only drives the hydraulic pump which is far different than driving gears in a regular transmission. Tell me if I'm wrong, otherwise I am confident the engineers at John Deere have seen this and got it figured out. Thanks all for the great thread and let us know if there really is a problem.
KHOP
 
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