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Discussion Starter #1
Folks, looking for some validation on my own thoughts, I have scoured the threads and for sale (online) ads and I am fairly certain I know the answer but I am trying to gauge how much of a deal this is as I do not need a tractor this large, its much more of a want. Currently get by with a D130 54" deck.

8k OTD

for a 2013 1026R used for mowing with the 60" Autoconnect mower, stored inside year round, looks virtually spotless. Just shy of 350hrs and comes with a JD tiller however it appears the auger shaft is broken and was told its a very $$$ part. I have no need for the tiller, I want it for the mower and future snow blowing with the option to add front loader and backhoe if I ever choose to. Not trying to argue that Garden tractor would be better suited for that (it likely would) but I have tested both and for the small price difference can not justify why I would go with a X7xx vs a 1 Series.

My thoughts are this is a good deal and maybe hard to replicate in the future buy not by much, maybe $500-750 better then negating with dealer sans the tiller.........no idea how to value the tiller and without knowing what part is broke I assume no one here can help with that. Located in the Midwest if that helps

Regardless of your answer a couple questions, local dealer has not gotten back to me with answers.
*Are the new designed loader and backhoe a direct fit for the older 1026r? - I assume so
*Whats the deal with the 1026R being less cold blooded then the 1025R, I know there was an engine change but do we know why they seem to start better then the newer ones in cold weather? - Maybe this is a false statement but have seen it referenced at least 3 times in my research and being in the cold(er) midwest sounds like it wouldn't hurt.

Thoughts? and I appreciate the time
 

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Can't answer all your questions but as far as the engine is concerned, the 1026 has 1 HP more then the 1025 because of the EPA. The tiller goes from a $1000.00 to $1500.00 new. The new BH does not fit the 1026 as far as I know. The FEL should unless they made some changes I don't know about. When getting a FEL you also have to get the arms the FEL hooks to that is permanently mounted to the tractor. Same goes for the BH. $8000.00 for the tractor, MMM and a busted tiller still isn't a bad price. Anytime you look up a tractor with 4WD the price goes up. Good luck.
 

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1026 has a tier 3 pre-emission motor. Older 1025 had a hard time starting smoothly in cold weather. I hardly ever plug in my 1026 unless it gets below 0, and it starts fine.
Value is up to you and how bad they want to sell it.There proably are cheaper ones out there but price all depends on condition.
 

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From what if sounds like, the price isn't bad for what it is, not even considering the tiller. Maybe the tiller shaft can be welded and salvaged. Maybe just sell it as is for a few hundred.

If you plan on only keeping the tractor a few years, you might get close to what you paid, but it might take some time to sell. Seems many people that are looking for a tractor that size also want the FEL minimum, as they don't want to hassle with getting one added later.

Adding a FEL or BH to an older unit isn't hard, but it isn't necessarily cheap either (new). Finding used ones can be a long wait looking. If your interested in a FEL & BH, you may be better off to continue to look (used), or consider biting the bullet and take advantage of the 0% financing and get a new unit.

My 2014 1025R in the winter....when it's about 30 or below, sitting in an unheated barn, it will cough a little white smoke at start-up, but quickly dissipates and runs fine. If I had a block heater I'm sure it wouldn't cough at all. Cold-blooded? Aren't we all at 30° :laugh:
 
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Discussion Starter #5
From what if sounds like, the price isn't bad for what it is, not even considering the tiller. Maybe the tiller shaft can be welded and salvaged. Maybe just sell it as is for a few hundred.

If you plan on only keeping the tractor a few years, you might get close to what you paid, but it might take some time to sell. Seems many people that are looking for a tractor that size also want the FEL minimum, as they don't want to hassle with getting one added later.

Adding a FEL or BH to an older unit isn't hard, but it isn't necessarily cheap either (new). Finding used ones can be a long wait looking. If your interested in a FEL & BH, you may be better off to continue to look (used), or consider biting the bullet and take advantage of the 0% financing and get a new unit.

My 2014 1025R in the winter....when it's about 30 or below, sitting in an unheated barn, it will cough a little white smoke at start-up, but quickly dissipates and runs fine. If I had a block heater I'm sure it wouldn't cough at all. Cold-blooded? Aren't we all at 30° :laugh:
True enough (cold blooded at 30) - I expect I would keep this tractor for decades but what I am seeing is what I thought, its a good deal but not a "once in a lifetime" deal. I concur that finding a used FEL is hard however even though its zero percent its hard to pull the trigger on a 20k+ machine when you get buy with a hand me down D130 - but life's short and I like my "tools". I guess I will ponder more if I will get value out of such a machine.

Thanks all for the feedback
 

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To me, a 1026R/1025R that doesn't have a FEL is just a large lawn mower with 3 point capabilities. A bigger version of the X700 series. Yes it can fill a niche for some homeowners in that configuration, but once you add a FEL, it becomes a workhorse for its size.
 
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I would do what you can to make darn sure that when that tiller blew up that no damage was done to the PTO on the tractor.
Other than that I don't feel it is a great price with no loader. Maybe a good price but I'm thinking adding a loader will be a chore.
 

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I just bought a 1025r to mow my 4.5 acre front "yard", but one of the main reasons for buying it was for the loader. Had it 3 weeks and the FEL has been worth its weight in gold (numerous stumps removed and many piles of stuff pushed around ). 60" MMM and loader were key. Then before delivery I added a box blade (to complement the loader) and a rotary cutter for a nasty power line field. It was tough to swallow as I needed a new mower first but I feel I got a good deal and 0% was a big factor. If it weren't for the loader though, I was headed for a new mower.

2018 1025R, 120R Loader, 60D MMM, BB2048, RC2048
 

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If you are planning on adding a loader and or backhoe, your better off buying a tractor that’s already has them. I bought my 1026 without a loader . I Added a loader 5 years after the original purchase, cost me 3k and I installed it myself. I decided to get a loader after finding out what it woul have cost me to rent a skid steer for project. It’s handy to have a loader, but I seldom use it. I haven’t put it on since early June.

I don’t know it the newer 1025s have starting issues or not. My 1026 has never failed to start on the coldest mornings in northern Wi.
 

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Just chiming in here... My 26R always started at -18F without plugging in. Sputtered a bit but, always started. At -19F, I just stayed indoors. :mocking:
 

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Before I bought my 1025R, I looked to the point of absurdity at used equipment. I never did see a front end loader for sale for one of these 1 series tractors as a stand alone piece. Frankly, the FEL is one of the best and most useful parts of the entire machine.

Also, as JeffB pointed out, when enough damage is done to break a shaft on the rototiller, it very well could have put quite the shock on the PTO system of the tractor. Personally, I would pass on this one as without the FEL and with the damaged tiller, no telling how it was treated. I bet you can search this entire website and I would bet you wouldn't find where anyone running a tiller on a 1 series has ever broken the input shaft or drive shaft on their tiller. At least I can't recall ever hearing such damage.

As Levi said, the tiller would normally sell for $1,000 to $1,500 used in working condition. If they broke the input shaft or damaged the clutch or whatever they did to it, likely they tore up tiller tines as well and could have bent the main rotating shaft. Without tearing the tiller apart to inspect it, its impossible to know but I will tell you that damaging a tiller like that is rare and requires an extraordinary impact with something very solid...........

A tractor without a FEL would be a compromise and the price you would have to pay to purchase the loader would wipe out any "deal" the base tractor might have been.
 
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