1026R - where to get electrical power?

kimqi said:

I'm looking at ways to add several lights for snowblowing. Will probably unplug headlights to reduce glare, but use the little sidelights. Also thinking about an electric winch and other goodies.

Anyone here know the max current rating of the "cigarette lighter" outlet? Plugs I've found so far are fused for 5A and have only #26 wire, so that might not be a good option even if the outlet can safely power a pair of 55W floods.

I haven't found a thread yet that discussed this in detail. Can someone please advise where we can plug into an unused connector slot for auxiliary lighting? My preference is an unswitched line, with a toggle at the lights. But anything that won't harm the tractor is fine.

Thanks!

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The 1026R has some spare positions in the fuse-box of which I just allocated one of them for the addition of my winch. Fuse ready and easy access makes this the logical choice! Running anything drawing any sizable power will likely be more than the cigarette lighter would take - I think its designed mainly to power a cell phone/iPod only.

When adding lights and such, I am a firm believer in NOT using the factory harness. I create a new 20 or 30 amp circuit that is circuit breaker or fuse protected and powered through a 30 relay that is triggered when the key is ON. This way no additional load is placed on the factory switches and connectors.

Kennyd said:

When adding lights and such, I am a firm believer in NOT using the factory harness. I create a new 20 or 30 amp circuit that is circuit breaker or fuse protected and powered through a 30 relay that is triggered when the key is ON. This way no additional load is placed on the factory switches and connectors.

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I disagree, the 2520 has two circuits with two relays from the factory. The hood lights are on a 15A (I think) circuit and the second aux light circuit is on a dedicated 20A fuse. I am currently running three 55 watt halogens on this circuit.

Kennyd said:

So does the 1026R have that same setup?

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Not sure, but my point was the 2520 has the factory setup for this. Based on what I seen of the 1026 it might, it has a 40 amp alternator which is head and shoulders above the rest of the sub-compacts electrically and in many other ways as well. I wouldn't distrust the factory harness if it has a dedicated circuit for auxiliary lights, but you are right, I wouldn't splice them into the underrated circuit for the hood lights.

Another point to consider is control...like with my setup I have independant control over the headlights, front facing work lights, and rear facing work lights. If I had used the factory work light wire under the seat I would not have this, I see no reason to have the headlights burning if they are just blinding me from reflection on the blade or loader bucket and my front worklights are on. My setup gives you options...

Kennyd said:

Another point to consider is control...like with my setup I have independant control over the headlights, front facing work lights, and rear facing work lights. If I had used the factory work light wire under the seat I would not have this, I see no reason to have the headlights burning if they are just blinding me from reflection on the blade or loader bucket and my front worklights are on. My setup gives you options...

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Fair point and I considered this, but the pain of fabricating something versus factory wiring swayed me toward the easier solution. Spaces for addition switch is very limited on these small tractors. Having used the factory wiring, I have had no issues, in spite of the fact that I cannot turn off the hood lights while the ROPS lights are on. I was doing some extensive night running last month shuffling an old stump dump from the perimeter of the house to the back of the property and the hood lights worked very well with this job. There is one position on the bucket half way between curled and level and the bucket is at headlight level where the green acts as a mirror, but other than that they were very useful during the shuttle runs with the loads.

I respect your work and your fabrication work is second to none, but for me I currently have a canopy and any tool I need for doing work I need to haul several hundred feet from my basement workshop. I can get a little weary after running back the house a half dozen times to get tools, but the good news is I am building an 8 car garage this summer so I can start building my dream toy house. I am also very time constrained right now, I need to work with the tractor, not on the tractor.

1026R Power Outlet Rating is 15 AMP

kimqi said:

I'm looking at ways to add several lights for snowblowing. Will probably unplug headlights to reduce glare, but use the little sidelights. Also thinking about an electric winch and other goodies.

Anyone here know the max current rating of the "cigarette lighter" outlet? Plugs I've found so far are fused for 5A and have only #26 wire, so that might not be a good option even if the outlet can safely power a pair of 55W floods.

I haven't found a thread yet that discussed this in detail. Can someone please advise where we can plug into an unused connector slot for auxiliary lighting? My preference is an unswitched line, with a toggle at the lights. But anything that won't harm the tractor is fine.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

On page 56 of my John Deere 1026R Owner's Manual it says the Power Outlet (only on the 1026R) is fused for 15 AMPS. I plan to use the Power Outlet for one of those Peterson magnetic mount flood lights. They are real handy. You can place and aim them on anything metal. 55 watts/12 volts= 4.58 amps. Use a 7 to 10 amp fuse. 16 Gauge wire will do. The smaller the number on the gauge, the larger the wire. It's also VERY important to beware of locations that might rub the wire and cause it, over time and vibration, to short out. You can use that plastic coil around wrap to protect the wire or plastic quick ties. Don't forget to water proof. I hope this helps

Barry said:

On page 56 of my John Deere 1026R Owner's Manual it says the Power Outlet (only on the 1026R) is fused for 15 AMPS. ... I hope this helps

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Thanks for the details, Barry. My main concern was for how much current that kind of outlet can tolerate on a sustained basis. Cigarette lighters (remember them?) probably took quite a few amps, but only for under a minute. So I wasn't sure if the 15A fusing was really a good index of safe long-term load capacity.

I added the auxiliary lights (pointing one forward and one aft), but an aimable spotlight would be nice. Since I'm too cheap to buy LED floods, I think I will try a magnetic-mount 55W plugin, and check the plug occasionally for overheating.

rear lights

Kennyd said:

Another point to consider is control...like with my setup I have independant control over the headlights, front facing work lights, and rear facing work lights. If I had used the factory work light wire under the seat I would not have this, I see no reason to have the headlights burning if they are just blinding me from reflection on the blade or loader bucket and my front worklights are on. My setup gives you options...

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Can you email me a bit more detail on this. Id like to buy two rear lights and wire them seperate from the fronts so I can snow blow. Id like a picture or diagram if you could make me one as Im not an electrician lol [email protected]

Hitman98 said:

Can you email me a bit more detail on this. Id like to buy two rear lights and wire them seperate from the fronts so I can snow blow. Id like a picture or diagram if you could make me one as Im not an electrician lol [email protected]

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Hitman, Welcome to GTT.

I will not email you directly-but I will be more than happy to help openly in the forum for all to see and benefit. I will even provide drawings and other details for you if you start a new thread.:thumbup1gif:

I installed work lights on my ROPS and am very happy with them. There are a few shots in this thread, http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compacts/5293-work-light-installation-1026r.html

I meant to update that thread because I changed it slightly from that post but haven't taken any pics yet. I undersized the wire even for the two 55 watts that I installed so I changed it to a #12 instead of #16 like I originally installed; see the chart in this link, Amps and Wire Gauge - 12V Circuit

With the wire upsized I added a second light off the back and it is great now. I'll post some shots later but it lights up my yard like daytime.

To answer your question on the availability of a circuit, there are two spare spots that I see on fuse block; one switched and one not switched. The switched one looks like about a #16 or #14 wire, the unswitched one is a #12. I couldn't find the type of fuse blade end for the other side of the fuse block so I cut the wire and tied in an in-line fuse holder with #12 tails and used a 15 amp fuse for the 3 55 watt flood lights. I'll try to post a shot of the schematic later this evening to show that wire but they are the top and bottom spots on the right bank of fuses; of course there are no fuses there but the hot side has a wire and the circuit side is blank.

Carvel Loafer said:

I installed work lights on my ROPS and am very happy with them. There are a few shots in this thread, http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compacts/5293-work-light-installation-1026r.html

.......I couldn't find the type of fuse blade end for the other side of the fuse block so I cut the wire and tied in an in-line fuse holder with #12 tails and used a 15 amp fuse for the 3 55 watt flood lights. I'll try to post a shot of the schematic later this evening to show that wire but they are the top and bottom spots on the right bank of fuses; of course there are no fuses there but the hot side has a wire and the circuit side is blank.

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I have looked for those blades to fit the fuse block (to use these spare circuits) as well and have had no luck either. Anyone have any ideas on where to get these? What you've done looks fine, I just want to use the actual fuse position in the box, if possible.

I have attached a couple of crappy pics of the blade. My phone wouldn't focus well on something so small. Any ideas?

I looked in both JD parts and the tech manual. You can get any connector on the tractor, but I couldn't find anything listed for the actual blades to connect within the fuse panel. Do you have a good relationship with your dealer's parts department? I'd pay them or the service department a visit. They may have something to help you out.

sb7979 said:

I have looked for those blades to fit the fuse block (to use these spare circuits) as well and have had no luck either. Anyone have any ideas on where to get these? What you've done looks fine, I just want to use the actual fuse position in the box, if possible.

I have attached a couple of crappy pics of the blade. My phone wouldn't focus well on something so small. Any ideas?

View attachment 11945 View attachment 11946

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Thanks for all the tip as I am in the process of doing the same "add circuit for lights". I found a connector from NAPA part# 725452 for 69 cents. It is not exactly the same as the original but it locks into the fuse block, designed for a fuse and it works. Putting in a fuse, though it is a little tight. The actual name of the connector is Pack-Con Series III. The only other issue is that you really need a special crimp tool to do the crimping, like the kind that does OEM bullet connectors for motorcycles. You can get one at OEM-Type Bullet & Spade Electrical Connectors for 1960's through 1970's Japanese Vehicles... Bridgestone, Datsun, Hodaka, Honda, Kawasaki, Landcruiser, Suzuki, Tohatsu, VW, & Yamaha .

I wanted to ask a question about your 2520 aux lights, but noticed you haven't been posting for some time. So here's trying!

I also have the Deere 2520, and have added 2 forward facing and 2 rear facing lights to the Deere brush guards.

My hope is to find a "clean" way of independently controlling the lights so I can turn on either set or both. I already have my relays and was deciding just how I wanted to wire, and switch things.
In particular what peeked my interest to ask you was your post of the Deere 2520 having 2 circuits with 2 relays. Did you mean to say that each of the 2 aux light wiring legs has a separate relay as that would simplify my wiring ideas quite a bit, or that the headlight circuit is on one relay, and both aux legs are on the other?

My last issue was finding a good spot to place two switches to control the lights. I like Kennyd's location and wanted to use 2 Carling lighted switches, but I need a flat spot and my PTO control lever area as you know is curved.

P.S. I imagine you have some sort of schematic/wiring diagram for the Deere 2520 could you tell me what publication it is in so I can get one for myself?

smalltown said:

I wanted to ask a question about your 2520 aux lights, but noticed you haven't been posting for some time. So here's trying!

I also have the Deere 2520, and have added 2 forward facing and 2 rear facing lights to the Deere brush guards.

My hope is to find a "clean" way of independently controlling the lights so I can turn on either set or both. I already have my relays and was deciding just how I wanted to wire, and switch things.
In particular what peeked my interest to ask you was your post of the Deere 2520 having 2 circuits with 2 relays. Did you mean to say that each of the 2 aux light wiring legs has a separate relay as that would simplify my wiring ideas quite a bit, or that the headlight circuit is on one relay, and both aux legs are on the other?

My last issue was finding a good spot to place two switches to control the lights. I like Kennyd's location and wanted to use 2 Carling lighted switches, but I need a flat spot and my PTO control lever area as you know is curved.

P.S. I imagine you have some sort of schematic/wiring diagram for the Deere 2520 could you tell me what publication it is in so I can get one for myself?

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:munch: :munch:

smalltown said:

I wanted to ask a question about your 2520 aux lights, but noticed you haven't been posting for some time. So here's trying!

I also have the Deere 2520, and have added 2 forward facing and 2 rear facing lights to the Deere brush guards.

My hope is to find a "clean" way of independently controlling the lights so I can turn on either set or both. I already have my relays and was deciding just how I wanted to wire, and switch things.
In particular what peeked my interest to ask you was your post of the Deere 2520 having 2 circuits with 2 relays. Did you mean to say that each of the 2 aux light wiring legs has a separate relay as that would simplify my wiring ideas quite a bit, or that the headlight circuit is on one relay, and both aux legs are on the other?

My last issue was finding a good spot to place two switches to control the lights. I like Kennyd's location and wanted to use 2 Carling lighted switches, but I need a flat spot and my PTO control lever area as you know is curved.

P.S. I imagine you have some sort of schematic/wiring diagram for the Deere 2520 could you tell me what publication it is in so I can get one for myself?

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Wiring diagrams are the the regular Technical Manuals, they are excellent!