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Hello everyone brand new to this site, just wanted to ask a question. I have a 1026R with a 260 backhoe and was wondering does the backhoe need to be in a certain position in order for all the grease nipples to accept grease. I have two that will not take grease I take the nipples off and am able to put grease through no problem. I know there is a diagram on the backhoe itself showing a certain position but mine is worn and am unable to see the proper position just wondering if anyone else knows of this diagram. Thanks for any responses (loving my tractor).

Rick
 

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There is a diagram in the 260 operator's manual which illustrates the location of the grease points but there is nothing about any specific position.

Sometimes a zerk will not take grease if the pivot pin is under a lot of load to the point where grease cannot squeeze through. This can be remedied by simply positioning the arm in such a way as to take some weight off it. My front axle pivot pin is that way. It will not accept grease unless the front wheels are off the ground.

Which two zerks specifically are you having problems getting grease through?
 
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Thanks for the response I will try and lower it to the ground to release the pressure. Its hard to explain which zerks aren't taking grease, the one where the bucket attaches to the arm and the one at the bottom of the boom where it attaches to the tractor. I know that probably doesn't help but not sure how else to describe it.
 

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Yeah, not seeing it is hard to visualize. Take a look at the pin on which the zerk feeds grease and try to determine which way to move the arms or bucket to relieve the pressure on the pin - as if you were going to remove the pin.
 
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Get a zerk cleaner

I had the same issues as you. Taking weight off the joint may help.

Is this a new to you machine? If previous owner did not grease often the grease may have hardened and if water (rust) and grit got in there the joint is effectively clogged. They make grease fitting cleaning tools. You hit the top with a hammer and it forces penetrating fluid through the zerks and into the joint. I like to use kano Kroil, little hard to find. Pb blaster or simillar will work as well.
Link to tool:
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200430913_200430913?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Fuel Transfer + Lubrication > Grease Guns + Accessories > Hoses, Valves + Fittings&utm_campaign=IPA&utm_content=403100&gclid

If that doesn't work remove the retaining bolt and use a drift to push out the pin. Clean the crud and dried out grease off the pin and out of the hole. Do NOT stick your FINGER in the hole. If something moves your going to get hurt! Use a dowel or some sort of tool. Use a soft metal drift. You dont want to mushroom the ends of the pins. If you do chamfer the ends with a grinder before putting back in.

Also make sure you are consistent with the type of grease you use. Some types are not compatabile and will cause the grease to harden. Its not supper important the type you use so long as its always the same and often. I like Lucas red n tacky #2 cus its cheap and kinda smells like mint. :unknown:

Oh you might like one of these, locks the grease gun to the zerk so you don't need 3 hands to grease your machine.

https://locknlube.com/collections/locknlube-grease-coupler

Good luck and if you get stuck let us know.
 

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Forgot to mention. No it should not matter what position the backhoe is in to grease, so long as you can get the grease gun on the zerk. Once you get those joints clean it will surprise you how easy the grease goes in.

Welcome to the forum by the way.
 

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I have a zerk on my 260 that's always difficult to take grease. It's on the bottom pivot. I use a pneumatic grease gun and pivot the back hoe back and forth while pumping grease and it slowly takes it.
 

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Wow some of those pneumatic grease guns pump 10,000+ psi. We used to use them on heavy equipment. Sounds like a hell of a clog.

I feel your pain. The previous owner never greased the backhoe and it sat outside all the time. I ended up pounding out all the pins one at a time cleaning and reinstalling. The "grease" came out in chunks and crumbled. It was actualy easy to get the pins out using the backhoe againt the ground to take the pressure off the pin. Might be worth a shot for you if it gets real hard to get grease in there.

The only one now still stuck on mine is the main boom pivot pin. It is so rusted stuck the retaining bolt sheared and the boom pivots on the outside ears of the boom pin bosses. Im going to mess with it this winter when I have time. I am hoping the "sparkle wrench" aka oxy acetylene torch can crack the rust bond. (You heat and cool it quick) If that don't work you can torch right through the center of the pin and when it cools it will shrink the diameter of the pin so you can drive it out. The trick is not cutting into the backhoe boom. Have to buy a new pin but sometimes thats the only way they come out. Just some tricks I picked up over the years may help some one out.
 

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Hi All
When I first got 260 BH I found some of the zerks ( or as we call them here in Australia Grease nipples) difficult to get the grease gun on, so I changed them to angled types (45 and 90 degrees) making them much easier to access. The one that springs to mind is the one on the left /right tavel hinge pin much easier to grease with an angled zerk.
Regards John
 

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There is a diagram in the 260 operator's manual which illustrates the location of the grease points but there is nothing about any specific position.

Sometimes a zerk will not take grease if the pivot pin is under a lot of load to the point where grease cannot squeeze through. This can be remedied by simply positioning the arm in such a way as to take some weight off it. My front axle pivot pin is that way. It will not accept grease unless the front wheels are off the ground.

Which two zerks specifically are you having problems getting grease through?
Might seem like a dumb question, but where is that zerk on the front pivot. Can you please post a picture?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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Might seem like a dumb question, but where is that zerk on the front pivot. Can you please post a picture?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I think he is referring to his 2720 or his X500, not a 1025R. Correct me if I'm wrong J.
 

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I think he is referring to his 2720 or his X500, not a 1025R. Correct me if I'm wrong J.
Well, I'd rather have a zerk there, but thought I was loosing my marbles there a second. Wonder if there is a way to install one. Really should have had one. Damned bean counters.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
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I think he is referring to his 2720 or his X500, not a 1025R. Correct me if I'm wrong J.
Correct. On the 2720 (and most other tractors) there is a grease fitting on the front axle pivot bushing. I only mentioned it as an example of a perfectly good zerk that refuses to take grease unless the weight is taken off the front axle.
 
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It is not always a clogged fitting.

I have a new 375A backhoe and the ends for the swing connections will not take grease unless I move the hoe side to side while applying pressure with the grease gun.

It is new and tight so you will have to figure out how to take the pressure off of it and it will take grease.
 

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I've had a few loader-backhoes over the years. Everyone of them has had some difficult to lube zerk fittings. This is due to the straight bushings and pins used for the pivot points. There's very little clearance at the pin fit.

As some have mentioned, loading / unloading the boom and dipper stick can help with lubrication. I find the main swing pins usually need some help. I generally rest the bucket on the ground and apply some gentle down pressure to unload the swing pins. That is all that's necessary to get the pivot greased. Also find that it's easier to extend the boom and / or stick to get at some of the fittings.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks everyone for all the information am going back to the camp in the next few days will try all your suggestions and keep you posted, thanks again Rick.
 
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