Green Tractor Talk banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The front right spindle on my 1050 had a slow leak, which became a moderate leak, which has turned into this mess:

782594


It's obvious where it's leaking, the seals where the lower spindle attaches to the outer hub:

782602


782603

There doesn't seem to be many threads or videos on Youtube on doing this on these old ironhorse 50 series tractors, and since it's basically the same procedure on a 750, 850, 950 and 1050 front end, I figured I'd share as I go.
There's few things I hate more than nice clean gear oil puking out onto my concrete! It seems like a pretty straightforward job, and I have a IT Clymer shop manual.
Step 1: Block up the front axle and remove wheel. I've found pieces of 6x6 lumber to be about a safe a thing to use as anything.

782598


Step 2: Remove the steering linkage that's attached to the hub (pics to come, but its just 3 bolts to remove)

Step 3: Loosen the 4 bolts that attach the steering arm to the top of the outer hub housing. I only backed them out about 1/4" to start. They are essentially the only thing (it appears) that holds the hub up onto the bottom of the spindle.
I left the bolts in for now to avoid having the entire hub drop right off the spindle onto the floor. There are at least one roll pin (dowel pin?) between the hub and that upper steering arm to line them up. There are also shims that you have to be extremely careful to not lose and remember where they went. It did not want to budge at first when I loosened the bolts (some rust, the alignment pin, etc) it took a few whacks on those sharp corners on the top with a brass hammer and it started to separate. There are definitely shims in there to adjust the end play on the spindle.

782601


This is as far as I got so far, more pics as I make more progress. Be patient with me, I have 2 small kids, full time job and basically zero free time, haha.
 
  • Like
Reactions: raco232 and Gizmo2

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well you know what they say about the " best laid plans", never had time for the thorough write-up I intended but I did get it back together.

Here are some pics of the process.

All it takes to separate the lower spindle housing from the upper housing is to remove these 4 bolts. There are shims inside that you need to keep track of where they went because the adjust the end play between the spindle and the upper arm. The lower unit is HEAVY so have something underneath it or use a jack to lower it off the upper spindle carefully. Also oil will be everywhere

789293


My upper spindle had some corrosion/pitting that I cleaned up by hand with some 400 grit emery paper until it was as smooth as possible.

789294


Remove the 6 bolts from the bottom cover and you can see the bearing and gear.

789295


A light tap from the other side with a wooden dowel will pop the bearing and lower gear right out the bottom.
789303


My bearing still seemed quiet and tight.

789324


Once the bevel gear and bearing are out you can remove and replace the seals. It originally has an oil seal and a second wiper seal, which have now been replaced by one wide seal. My seals were trashed and covered on dirt.

789325


New seal installed:

789326


Everything goes back together in the opposite order, I used a jack to lift the lower spindle housing into place. You have to be very careful to align the lower spindle and lift it onto the upper spindle straight so that the inner axle slides into the splines in the bevel gear. Once in place, tighten the 4 bolts on the upper steering arm and make sure to put the shims back in place between the steering arm and the spindle.

789327
 

·
Senior GTT Super Slacker
Joined
·
42,360 Posts
(y)
Thanks AJgrn78
 
  • Like
Reactions: AJgrn78

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,760 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No leaks after a few days, so I'm really happy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Gizmo2

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I have a 1050 with the hub seal leak also. Thanks for the write up! Do you happen to have the part number of the seal and did you have to replace anything else?

-Eric
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top