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1050 mfwd - front axle lower housing / spindle seal replacement

4407 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Eric67ct
The front right spindle on my 1050 had a slow leak, which became a moderate leak, which has turned into this mess:


It's obvious where it's leaking, the seals where the lower spindle attaches to the outer hub:



There doesn't seem to be many threads or videos on Youtube on doing this on these old ironhorse 50 series tractors, and since it's basically the same procedure on a 750, 850, 950 and 1050 front end, I figured I'd share as I go.
There's few things I hate more than nice clean gear oil puking out onto my concrete! It seems like a pretty straightforward job, and I have a IT Clymer shop manual.
Step 1: Block up the front axle and remove wheel. I've found pieces of 6x6 lumber to be about a safe a thing to use as anything.


Step 2: Remove the steering linkage that's attached to the hub (pics to come, but its just 3 bolts to remove)

Step 3: Loosen the 4 bolts that attach the steering arm to the top of the outer hub housing. I only backed them out about 1/4" to start. They are essentially the only thing (it appears) that holds the hub up onto the bottom of the spindle.
I left the bolts in for now to avoid having the entire hub drop right off the spindle onto the floor. There are at least one roll pin (dowel pin?) between the hub and that upper steering arm to line them up. There are also shims that you have to be extremely careful to not lose and remember where they went. It did not want to budge at first when I loosened the bolts (some rust, the alignment pin, etc) it took a few whacks on those sharp corners on the top with a brass hammer and it started to separate. There are definitely shims in there to adjust the end play on the spindle.


This is as far as I got so far, more pics as I make more progress. Be patient with me, I have 2 small kids, full time job and basically zero free time, haha.
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Well you know what they say about the " best laid plans", never had time for the thorough write-up I intended but I did get it back together.

Here are some pics of the process.

All it takes to separate the lower spindle housing from the upper housing is to remove these 4 bolts. There are shims inside that you need to keep track of where they went because the adjust the end play between the spindle and the upper arm. The lower unit is HEAVY so have something underneath it or use a jack to lower it off the upper spindle carefully. Also oil will be everywhere


My upper spindle had some corrosion/pitting that I cleaned up by hand with some 400 grit emery paper until it was as smooth as possible.


Remove the 6 bolts from the bottom cover and you can see the bearing and gear.


A light tap from the other side with a wooden dowel will pop the bearing and lower gear right out the bottom.

My bearing still seemed quiet and tight.


Once the bevel gear and bearing are out you can remove and replace the seals. It originally has an oil seal and a second wiper seal, which have now been replaced by one wide seal. My seals were trashed and covered on dirt.


New seal installed:


Everything goes back together in the opposite order, I used a jack to lift the lower spindle housing into place. You have to be very careful to align the lower spindle and lift it onto the upper spindle straight so that the inner axle slides into the splines in the bevel gear. Once in place, tighten the 4 bolts on the upper steering arm and make sure to put the shims back in place between the steering arm and the spindle.

No leaks after a few days, so I'm really happy.
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