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Discussion Starter #1
Can't get my 110 to fire replaced plug, points, condensor, engine will turn over just not fire. Going to replace coil. Any suggestions if that doesn't work. Thanks.
 

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Do you have a test light or multi-meter?
 

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BigJim, with the batt/coil ignition, I would start with a test light touching the + side of the coil with the ignition key switch in the on position. The light should come on if you have 12V to the coil. If not, check the wire and connections all the way back to and including the switch. Sometimes that wire breaks, but more often the switch terminals are rusted, corroded, or burnt.

If the light is on, someone correct me if this is wrong, you should get a blinking light by touching the - (minus) terminal of the coil while someone cranks the engine. The thing I'm not totally sure about here is if this can blow the test light or give you a little bite! From what I've read this indicates the points are breaking and contacting ground. No blinking light would indicate a problem with the wire to the points or the points themselves. The connection at the points or the contact surfaces are not making contact. I like to use a piece of corrogated cardboard to burnish the contacts of new ones before installing them. Just give each contact a good rubbing back and forth on a clean piece of the cardboard to make them shine. I don't know if it's corrosion from storage or something that is put on to prevent corrosion. Sometimes it's there though.

On the 12V negative ground system on a 110, the wire from the switch (12V) goes on the + terminal of the coil. Wire from the - (neg) side goes to the points. Don't know which 110 you have, but the condensor goes to the - (neg) terminal of the coil, with the base attached to a good ground, or it might be inline (older tractors) with the points wire near the points box.

Let us know the s/n of the tractor or model year for more accurate info. Kohler used a coil with an internal resister. If you have an Ohm meter to test the coil primary and secondary windings, we can come up with some numbers for you to see if you really need a new one if the tests indicate so. Oh yeah, make sure the plug wire into the coil tower is not corroded.

tommyhawk
 

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Good advice tommyhawk.

To answer your question here is no electric shock risk testing the coil, except the plug wire itself.

The negative should flash as you described.


OP, do not use sandpaper to clean the points. The surface metal is just thin plating and is easy damaged. They might work after sanding but they won’t last. Cardboard or dollar bills work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
BigJim, with the batt/coil ignition, I would start with a test light touching the + side of the coil with the ignition key switch in the on position. The light should come on if you have 12V to the coil. If not, check the wire and connections all the way back to and including the switch. Sometimes that wire breaks, but more often the switch terminals are rusted, corroded, or burnt.

If the light is on, someone correct me if this is wrong, you should get a blinking light by touching the - (minus) terminal of the coil while someone cranks the engine. The thing I'm not totally sure about here is if this can blow the test light or give you a little bite! From what I've read this indicates the points are breaking and contacting ground. No blinking light would indicate a problem with the wire to the points or the points themselves. The connection at the points or the contact surfaces are not making contact. I like to use a piece of corrogated cardboard to burnish the contacts of new ones before installing them. Just give each contact a good rubbing back and forth on a clean piece of the cardboard to make them shine. I don't know if it's corrosion from storage or something that is put on to prevent corrosion. Sometimes it's there though.

On the 12V negative ground system on a 110, the wire from the switch (12V) goes on the + terminal of the coil. Wire from the - (neg) side goes to the points. Don't know which 110 you have, but the condensor goes to the - (neg) terminal of the coil, with the base attached to a good ground, or it might be inline (older tractors) with the points wire near the points box.

Let us know the s/n of the tractor or model year for more accurate info. Kohler used a coil with an internal resister. If you have an Ohm meter to test the coil primary and secondary windings, we can come up with some numbers for you to see if you really need a new one if the tests indicate so. Oh yeah, make sure the plug wire into the coil tower is not corroded.

tommyhawk
Thank you so much. Also it's a 1974 square fender. I'm not sure really what kind of ignition I have. Numbers on the plate are TO641 & 141581. It doesn't have what I would call a distributor with the wire coming off the top to the plug. New coil didn't work.
 

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Using the numbers you gave T0641 (s/n) 141581 comes up as a 1969 110 with an 8HP Kohler engine. Now it gets a little sticky as JD Parts shows that s/n range as using a magneto ignition. On that system, the coil is attached to the stator (alternator) which is located under the flywheel. I can post some test procedures for the mag coil if you have an Ohm meter and familiar with it's use. It appears that JD can get the coil ($125) but it will likely be less expensive from a Kohler dealer, if it comes down to that.
So, what did you replace that you called a coil? I only have a picture of a battery/coil on this '67 model 110. Later versions may have the coil mounted on the flywheel cover or elsewhere.

Pic271.JPG

In the pic, the black cylindrical part is what would be called the coil, the much smaller silver part beside it is the condensor (capacitor), the points are under the green cover above the condensor. The high tension lead (spark plug wire) goes from the coil up to the spark plug. The pink wire coming from behind the flywheel cover is the 12V wire coming from the keyswitch attached to the + side of the coil. On this one, the condensor lead and the wire to the points is attached to the - side of the coil.

Unfortunately, I don't have a pic of a magneto equipped K181. But if that is what yours has, there would be a wire coming from behind the flywheel cover going to the condensor, then on to the points. The high tension wire (sparkplug) would also be coming from behind the flywheel directly to the plug. Two more wires come out of the same are the AC voltage going to the rectifier/regulator. A third one may also be there in the harness as the ground wire from the keyswitch.

I hope this isn't too confusing, just trying to make sue we are talking apples and apples. Won't look much like a 50 JD, but works pretty much the same way. Keep us tuned!

tommyhawk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Using the numbers you gave T0641 (s/n) 141581 comes up as a 1969 110 with an 8HP Kohler engine. Now it gets a little sticky as JD Parts shows that s/n range as using a magneto ignition. On that system, the coil is attached to the stator (alternator) which is located under the flywheel. I can post some test procedures for the mag coil if you have an Ohm meter and familiar with it's use. It appears that JD can get the coil ($125) but it will likely be less expensive from a Kohler dealer, if it comes down to that.
So, what did you replace that you called a coil? I only have a picture of a battery/coil on this '67 model 110. Later versions may have the coil mounted on the flywheel cover or elsewhere.

View attachment 690794

In the pic, the black cylindrical part is what would be called the coil, the much smaller silver part beside it is the condensor (capacitor), the points are under the green cover above the condensor. The high tension lead (spark plug wire) goes from the coil up to the spark plug. The pink wire coming from behind the flywheel cover is the 12V wire coming from the keyswitch attached to the + side of the coil. On this one, the condensor lead and the wire to the points is attached to the - side of the coil.

Unfortunately, I don't have a pic of a magneto equipped K181. But if that is what yours has, there would be a wire coming from behind the flywheel cover going to the condensor, then on to the points. The high tension wire (sparkplug) would also be coming from behind the flywheel directly to the plug. Two more wires come out of the same are the AC voltage going to the rectifier/regulator. A third one may also be there in the harness as the ground wire from the keyswitch.

I hope this isn't too confusing, just trying to make sue we are talking apples and apples. Won't look much like a 50 JD, but works pretty much the same way. Keep us tuned!

tommyhawk
I have a guy working on this for me and he is new to the old stuff. Would it be possible for him to call you and ask some questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I talked to him and he talked to someone that suggested he convert it to a battery ignition. Said that the magnets on flywheel get weak over time which is why the coil wont generate enough current to spark.
 

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That is a possibility. If they are weak or damaged, the charging system may not work so well either. I would be very tempted to change it over too, as the batt/coil system gives a more consistent spark, in my opinion, with a good battery of course. Once converted, all ignition parts are easier to access and replace. Never did understand why JD changed to the magneto system on some later 110's. Then changed back to b/c for the last few years.

In addition to the coil, the condenser should be changed to one matching the batt/coil system, along with a batt/coil type keyswitch. Easiest to run a new wire from the switch to the coil to provide the 12V.

Hopefully your mechanic friend will check all the wiring, keyswitch, etc. to make sure the conversion is needed. Good luck and keep us posted!

tommyhawk
 
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