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Discussion Starter #1
Was wanting some oppinions on if a John Deere 14T Baler would run off my 2032R. Read somewhere that the older balers use less hp. I've never owned one. It would be nice to bale my own hay and not have it done.
 

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I wouldn't think you would have a problem with that, but I'm no expert.

I know a guy that used to run a Vermeer 605J round baler w/ his Ford 2000 (I think) with a 3cyl Perkins in it. I don't believe they put out much over 38hp.
 

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Are you going to drop bales on the ground? I wouldn't want to try to pull a hay wagon too.
 

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I agree with DRobinson. I think weight will be as much of an issue as power. The 14T alone is about 2,500 lbs. If you pull a wagon behind it, you have the weight of the wagon along with the hay. A good bale will be at least 50-60 lbs, and it gets heavy fast.

The 2032 has 23 HP at the PTO. It might work, but I suspect it'll be a very slow process. Overall I think a 2 series, and maybe even a 3 series is a little on the light side for hay production.
 

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Balers have that big fly wheel and lots of reciprocating parts. They tend to thrash a light tractor around quite a bit. We used to do quite a bit of baling with an Allis WD45. It was a pretty good tractor for the time, but you took a beating, and it was probably 4500 pounds, but maybe only 30 PTO HP. If you do try it, make sure you take some video:good2:
I thought somebody made a little baler for compacts though. I recall seeing a thread on TBN.
 

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Balers have that big fly wheel and lots of reciprocating parts. They tend to thrash a light tractor around quite a bit. We used to do quite a bit of baling with an Allis WD45. It was a pretty good tractor for the time, but you took a beating, and it was probably 4500 pounds, but maybe only 30 PTO HP. If you do try it, make sure you take some video:good2:
I thought somebody made a little baler for compacts though. I recall seeing a thread on TBN.
I remember seeing that. Wasn't it a round bailer? I also remember... But barely ,seeing a miniature square bailer some where's.

I did quite a bit of square bailing when I was in jr high. The ford 8 or 9 n beat the crap out of me. It was a relief to get down on the ground and load bales onto the trailer... At .06 cents/ bale


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These guys have a "mini-baler" that they claim will run on 15hp (PTO). It'd be a nice toy but way more than I'm willing to spend.
 

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Balers have that big fly wheel and lots of reciprocating parts. They tend to thrash a light tractor around quite a bit. We used to do quite a bit of baling with an Allis WD45. It was a pretty good tractor for the time, but you took a beating, and it was probably 4500 pounds, but maybe only 30 PTO HP. If you do try it, make sure you take some video:good2:
I thought somebody made a little baler for compacts though. I recall seeing a thread on TBN.
The 14T's didn't do nearly as bad as other brands of that era! The 14T had the flywheel on the side, instead of in-line on the power shaft, making them much smoother operating. I've baled many of bales through a 14T, mostly behind this 720D: TRACTORS 2006 002 (Small).jpg ~~ Lowell
 

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We do bale it on the ground. Only about 7 acres. Going slow wouldn't be a problem. I just don't want to tear up my tractor. I found a 14t baler on Craigslist for $600.-- The guy says he baled 800 bales last summe but the knotters are out of time now. On the fence since I know nothing about them but am willing to learn.
 

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We do bale it on the ground. Only about 7 acres. Going slow wouldn't be a problem. I just don't want to tear up my tractor. I found a 14t baler on Craigslist for $600.-- The guy says he baled 800 bales last summe but the knotters are out of time now. On the fence since I know nothing about them but am willing to learn.
I'd make sure you know how (or have someone who does) to fix the knotter problem! ~~ Lowell
 

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Can you take your tractor over there and hook up to it for a test run?
Thought about that, but can you "dry" run them or do you actualy have to bale to try it out?
 

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I'd make sure you know how (or have someone who does) to fix the knotter problem! ~~ Lowell
I've been doing a little research on that. From what I've seen, it says easy complicated procedure. My father in law knows a little but say he wouldn't buy it because might cost too much to fix. I think if my tractor would handle it, it would be worth it. Most for sale around here are larger newer units I know I can't handle.

Is one knotter out of time an "easy" fix, or could it lead to a lot of cash to fix? Like I say, I no nothing about them, but would like to learn, just not the hard way. Gues I might be better off to find a larger used tractor.
 

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I've been doing a little research on that. From what I've seen, it says easy complicated procedure. My father in law knows a little but say he wouldn't buy it because might cost too much to fix. I think if my tractor would handle it, it would be worth it. Most for sale around here are larger newer units I know I can't handle.

Is one knotter out of time an "easy" fix, or could it lead to a lot of cash to fix? Like I say, I no nothing about them, but would like to learn, just not the hard way. Gues I might be better off to find a larger used tractor.
I just don't remember, it's been 40+ years since I've been around one. I do remember one time Dad had problems with the plunger hitting a needle & bending it, took some time to get that timing problem fixed! ~~ Lowell
 

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I just don't remember, it's been 40+ years since I've been around one. I do remember one time Dad had problems with the plunger hitting a needle & bending it, took some time to get that timing problem fixed! ~~ Lowell
If you are mechanical, have an operator's manual and patience, working on balers can be fun. Plus, when you get knots out of it, the job satisfaction is very high. Check all the springs; check for rust on moving parts, make sure you have all the correct shear pins, grease all of the fittings and go slow. You can thread it and tie knots without having hay in the chamber.

grnspot mentioned the plunger hitting the needles. That can happen, but there is a plunger stop which should come up in the bottom of the bale chamber to stop the plunger when the needles are in the chamber. That action will cause the flywheel shear bolt to break, but better to replace the shear bolt than buy a pair of needles. The usual problem with the plunger stop is normally rust that doesn't allow it to move and holds it out of the chamber. As I recall the plunger stop is held out of the chamber by a spring on the linkage.

There are a lot of moving parts on a hay baler that need to work at the correct time. Let us know how it turns out for you.
 

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Years ago we had a 14t, late 50's early 60's then when the 24t came out mid 60's we bought that. I know the timing and knotter adjustment can be rather difficult at times to get in sinc. We used a DC 3 Case tractor 37 hp and about 5500 lbs. Both the 14t and the 24 t would be all the DC3 would want. Personally I would not want to use the tractor you have to operate it. When plunger goes home it pushes the tractor. Even with the flywheel, it has a lot of force.
If you move forward with the purchase look carefully at the needles to ensure one or both are not bent. Good Luck
 

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24T baler

Well, here goes,


I bucked bales behind a Massey baler with an inline balance wheel pulled by a Massey 65 back in the 60ties. My dad did custom baling he had four sons and we worked our butts off all
summer. Today I have a 24T and a 24W I have ran off a IH 574 and it did a wonderful job. I bought a round baler about 4 years ago (and different tractor)and I haven't used either of the two balers. I was going to junk them but the T is in really good shape and the W actually makes a better bale. I also have one of those small square balers in a fence row I bought about 10 years ago. I think it makes about an 14X18 bale. I bought is at a goat sale before goats became popular. I think you can bale with the smaller tractor if you keep your RPM's up and make your windrow a little smaller. If you bog down it will just shear a pin on the balance wheel so it won't hurt your tractor. I agree with the rest of crew here, it isn't the tractor to baler relationship as much as the terrain, loaded trailers, tuff hay, rocky or ruff ground, sticks etc.

I have a picture in my office of my dad and older brother before I was old enough to be out in the fields. If is of a stationary baler with probably about an 18 horsepower motor with my dad feeding it with a pitch fork with my brother sitting on the trailer waiting for the bales to come out the other end. My point is that I don't think it takes much horsepower to operate the baler once it gets going.

As with everything you do on the farm take it slow and easy and always take care of your self first and your equipment second. Forget about how much your getting done or not getting done and treat it as a hobby. I don't care what kind if equipment I have and a lot of guys think I'm stupid but I've been known to take a can of John Deere yellow and spray paint strips on pto shafts and other moving parts on equipment. I have several friends with half a thumb, no fingers, no arms, because they get too close.
 

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Balers have that big fly wheel and lots of reciprocating parts. They tend to thrash a light tractor around quite a bit. We used to do quite a bit of baling with an Allis WD45. It was a pretty good tractor for the time, but you took a beating, and it was probably 4500 pounds, but maybe only 30 PTO HP. If you do try it, make sure you take some video:good2:
I thought somebody made a little baler for compacts though. I recall seeing a thread on TBN.
You got the weight about right but WD-45 was closer to 45 HP, Neb. tested at 43.21 PTO HP on gasoline and 44.13 on LP & 43.29 on diesel. Neighbor we baled with had an IH #55-T baler...had a C113 engine, same as in an A, B, or C Farmall. BIG BRUTE of a baler and my first haying job was running the tractor pulling the baler. When the plunger was going it moved the whole tractor, baler & hay rack back & forth probably a foot or better. And that baler also moved the D-17 & D-19 we pulled that baler with in later years. When actually baling the rocking wasn't near as bad.
 

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HP to run 14T

No one has mentioned the optional Waukesha engine for non-PTO equipped tractors. The user manual I ordered from my local JD Dealer shows that. It also states that it is a 17 HP unit. I would deduce, then, that it the baler will operate acceptably with 17HP or better.

I obtained 2 14T units about 14 years ago. One was a parts baler and the other was complete and had been operated that season. I have continued using that unit since then, baling about 2000 bales a season behind (originally) an 8N and my current JD 5203. With the 8N, we used a stooker behind and picked the bales up after. The 5203 allows loading on a wagon directly. As others have said, the baler did transfer alot of motion back to the lighter power unit but it is not that obvious on the 5203. I've never had a major problem with the unit, only breaking shear pins on occasion and adjusting the bale tension at the beginning of baling season. First couple of bales out usually need a little fiddling with the tucker fingers to get the knots to hold properly but that is about it. Regular grease and oiling on ALL moving surfaces have kept my 14T running like a top.

Usual "consumable" parts like shear pins and bolts are readily available from JD Parts as well as some repair items. Later model balers may have pieces which are adaptable and things like chain and pick-up fingers are available from TSC.

Doug
 

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No one has mentioned the optional Waukesha engine for non-PTO equipped tractors. The user manual I ordered from my local JD Dealer shows that. It also states that it is a 17 HP unit. I would deduce, then, that it the baler will operate acceptably with 17HP or better.
Doug
Doug
14T had a 2 cylinder air cooled Wisconsin engine in lieu of a Waukesha
 
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