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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought an 18' long 2017 Lamar 14k utility trailer for hauling around material plus my 1025r. The 14k rating is overkill for my needs (7-10k would have been fine), but this was "New Old Stock" so I couldn't turn down a 14k trailer at a 10k price! This unit lacks a dovetail which is perfect for the curving, hilly road I live on where trailer-to-road clearance is minimal as I turn up my driveway.

My only issue is the mower deck and backhoe both get caught up since this only has 5' ramps. Also, the ramps really dig into my asphalt driveway by about an inch! I need to make a wood ramp extension somehow to lower this approach angle somewhat, plus prevent the driveway from getting destroyed during each use. Feel free to chime in with any ramp extension suggestions - especially cheaper options since this purchase, chains, and chain binders was quite expensive for my budget!
 

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It would probably be helpful to see what your current ramps look like.
 

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:munch:i would go with a gate -imo--i have had one since 2003-and i love it way more than ramps. yeah-it doesn't help with gas mileage one bit, but boy is sure nice to pull 2 pins-lay it on the ground, load up and flip the gate back up and gone.
 

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You sure that is a 14K trailer???? Looks more like a 7K trailer to me. Check the manufacturers plate to see what it says. As for the ramps, lay a 2x6 or 2x8 crossways under the ramps, then lay 2x8's extending from the ramp rearwards from the trailer so that they make a less steep ramp for loading.

Dave
 

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You sure that is a 14K trailer???? Looks more like a 7K trailer to me. Check the manufacturers plate to see what it says. As for the ramps, lay a 2x6 or 2x8 crossways under the ramps, then lay 2x8's extending from the ramp rearwards from the trailer so that they make a less steep ramp for loading.

Dave
The op's trailer has 8 lug rims, most 7k trailers I see for sale has 5 and 6 lugs. Not saying it is or isn't a 14k trailer but sure has a lot of lug nuts to only be a 7k.
 

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Cub Cadets have VERY little clearance under the mower, even when the deck is up.

This deck is ALL THE WAY up,,,



I would have to measure the ramps, I doubt they are 5 feet long.

I simply lift my dump trailer when loading,, that makes the tractor go right on the trailer,,
no "hump" :yahoo:
To get over the hump,, the ramps gotta be LONG!!
I think you will have to add a beavertail, or make the trailer slope somehow,,,

I guess another option is a convex shaped ramps, I have seen them as a hump solution,,,

 

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You sure that is a 14K trailer???? Looks more like a 7K trailer to me. Check the manufacturers plate to see what it says. As for the ramps, lay a 2x6 or 2x8 crossways under the ramps, then lay 2x8's extending from the ramp rearwards from the trailer so that they make a less steep ramp for loading.

Dave
I had the same thought when I saw it, but their web site shows basically that same trailer available as a 14k-21k model. It also shows it as being in the 2017 catalog, so it's either no longer made or they don't have a new version for 2018.

The reason it "doesn't look like" a 14k trailer is because it isn't an equipment trailer. It's a utility trailer. Style is different, and I don't see a lot of utility trailers rated for over 7k.
 

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I had the same thought when I saw it, but their web site shows basically that same trailer available as a 14k-21k model. It also shows it as being in the 2017 catalog, so it's either no longer made or they don't have a new version for 2018.

The reason it "doesn't look like" a 14k trailer is because it isn't an equipment trailer. It's a utility trailer. Style is different, and I don't see a lot of utility trailers rated for over 7k.

The OPs trailer looks odd for a 14k trailer, but it does also have a 14k jack.
 

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It's a strange design and really no wonder it sat for a year. If I didn't have a goofy driveway I'd have something different, but I can't see paying someone to tear up a perfectly good 2-year old driveway. I'm building some ramp extensions tonight, I will post pictures of my attempt - hopefully for the future benefit of someone else!
 

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It's a strange design and really no wonder it sat for a year. If I didn't have a goofy driveway I'd have something different, but I can't see paying someone to tear up a perfectly good 2-year old driveway. I'm building some ramp extensions tonight, I will post pictures of my attempt - hopefully for the future benefit of someone else!
The design looks pretty standard to me... For a utility trailer. Just seems like complete overkill in terms of the carrying capacity for that TYPE of trailer. Maybe that's why it say so long.

Equipment trailers are more tailored to loading equipment and will have options for a dovetail / beaver tail and beefier ramps. Most utility trailers use a gate of some sort and are more intended for riding mowers or zero turns only as opposed to lower-slung, longer wheelbase pieces of equipment.
 

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What is the tongue jack rated for? Every inch you raise the front while loading will help you out a lot on the back end. I would never load it without it hooked to a truck, but if your jack is strong enough to take some of the suspension sag out of the truck I'd try that. You can also drive the back wheels of the truck up on blocks changing the angle. I see hills in the picture that you could use, but if you don't have similar hills where you unload that's a bit pointless.

That's the lowest cost help I can think of. Getting a set of arched ramps is probably the best long term solution short of having a welding shop add a short dovetail.
 

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What is the tongue jack rated for? Every inch you raise the front while loading will help you out a lot on the back end. I would never load it without it hooked to a truck, but if your jack is strong enough to take some of the suspension sag out of the truck I'd try that. You can also drive the back wheels of the truck up on blacks changing the angle. I see hills in the picture that you could use, but if you don't have similar hills where you unload that's a bit pointless.

That's the lowest cost help I can think of. Getting a set of arched ramps is probably the best long term solution short of having a welding shop add a short dovetail.
I agree with PLUG....I would back it up to that small hill on the far side of the trailer pictured and then drive it onto the trailer. To unload anywhere else, I would use screw together a couple of chunks of 2x8 to put under the end of the ramp. the top 2x8 I would leave a bit shorter than the bottom to create a lip for the ramp to sit on and it be level to the top 2x8. Then use another 2x8 behind that to create a stair step type look. I hope that' s a clear as mud description ......
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The jack is rated for 10,000 and I can take out some angle with that suggestion. I feel fine with this since the trailer only weighs ~2500 lbs and the tractor maybe 3000. I won't go crazy jacking up the trailer plus I'll leave it attached to my tow vehicle which is on the heavier side (crew cab F250). I think if I unload the rear suspension of the truck to its stock, unladen ride height - then everything will be safe. Also, yes - this is a 14k utility trailer! Believe it or not you can buy a tri-axle version of this for a 21k GVW. lamartrailer.net/products/extreme-duty-utility-trailer-u6/


The pictures show my original ramp problem - notice it will scrap on the backhoe frame and the backhoe bucket will hit the trailer. I can lift the bucket of course, but that doesn't help the frame scraping.

Pictured is a mock-up of a ramp I ended up building, except I added one additional piece of cut 2"x12" lumber to get a little less angle. It ended up getting too dark to take another picture, so I'll add some more later of the finished "product". One caution for anyone in the future - a ramp constructed out of 2"x"12 pressure treated lumber will be VERY HEAVY! My boards were very wet still and I really need them to dry out some and hopefully loose a good deal of weight. A better option would be to buy lighter metal ramps, but I couldn't get them approved by the Finance Committee quite yet :gizmo: since I went over budget on the trailer. At least now I'm future-proofed for a bigger tractor! :greentractorride:
 

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You have the same ramps my neighbor has on his trailer and he had a similar problem with his Kubota. He took it to a fabricator who ended up welding on extensions to add 2.5' to each ramp. He also welded 2" black steel pipe across the ends of the ramps. When he uses the ramps he runs a 1.5" piece of pipe through the pipe "loops" at the ends of the ramps and then lowers them as a single unit. I would think the same sort of pipe at the end of the ramps would stop them from digging in to your pavement.
 

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You have the same ramps my neighbor has on his trailer and he had a similar problem with his Kubota. He took it to a fabricator who ended up welding on extensions to add 2.5' to each ramp. He also welded 2" black steel pipe across the ends of the ramps. When he uses the ramps he runs a 1.5" piece of pipe through the pipe "loops" at the ends of the ramps and then lowers them as a single unit. I would think the same sort of pipe at the end of the ramps would stop them from digging in to your pavement.



This. Find yourself a decent welder who can add-on extensions. Completely not OSHA approved, but 100% legit for a homeowner.
 

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Making the ramps longer could be problematic, it looks like they are stored end-to-end under the trailer. When I owned a trailer with pull out ramps, they came out the tail end. I preferred that because you didn't have to carry them around, just slide them out and raise them up. If you're going to get your ramps modified, get the trailer to carry them in from the tail end at the width you want, too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The ramp holder under the trailer goes sideways, and unfortunately won't fit longer ramps without metal fabrication work. Later on I might bite bullet and have the ramps extended and just store them on top of the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Heavy Ramps

Minimal Clearance.jpg
Barely clears - this isn't quite good enough!:hide:

Close.jpg
The metal bracket is to minimize the risk of the metal ramps sliding off.

On Ramp Close Up.jpg
Coming off the trailer this way? No problem!

Angle Shot on Trailer.jpg
Sitting pretty, although she needs to scoot towards the truck for a little more weight on the hitch
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Updates

I've been busy each night building panels, and man are they heavy since its all wet pressure-treated lumber. It has been raining every day unfortunately, so the wood isn't drying out much. Interior dimensions are approximately 6.75' W x 6' L x 2' H which ends up being ~2.7 cubic yards. At the end of this I hope to be able to carry 2 cubic yards materials in my truck bed plus the same volume in the front of the trailer, plus carrying the tractor at the same time. This is all dependent on material weight and staying under my truck payload of 3200 lbs of course.

I have a lot to do yet: 1.) Trim some pieces and sand rough spots, 2.) stain, 3.) install corner brackets to hook the front and sides together, 4.) add additional bolt-on stake pockets, 5.) install some type of hook to be able to use the tractor to lift panels in and out of the trailer, 6.) install hooks to be able to tarp loose materials

The ramps might need to get some more love later on, but I switched gears to this aspect of the project since the constant rain puts a damper on ramp testing in my driveway.

Outside the box.jpg
Exterior view

Inside the box.jpg
Inside the box 2.jpg
Interior view

Panel Size.jpg
1025R for scale
 

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I completely forgot to add... We're not loading sports cars here. Add 4" riser under your jacks, it'll flatten out the ramps at the top of the trailer, might just be enough elevation.
 
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