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Discussion Starter #1
Looking very hard at the 3033R.
Machine weighs in at ~3000 lbs.

Need a trailer mostly for:
moving household & shop things
hauling landscape materials & lumber
maybe use for ATV/UTV's

Will not be transporting the tractor unless it needs to go to the shop.
So likely I'd only be toting the tractor and maybe the FEL/bucket.

Would like to get away with an 18' 7k trailer.
Not exactly sure what the price does to go to a 10k trailer.

Towing with a 5.0 Ford F-150.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
not looking for a lesson in state and federal laws or GVRW's, just opinions on best type and size of trailer.

Thanks
 

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I'd personally go with a 10K but a 7K might work if you don't go crazy with it. I just looked at a PJ brand 7K 18' trailer and it's max payload is only 4600lbs (because the trailer itself weighs 2400lbs!).

A 3000lb tractor + the weight of any implements (i.e. loader, brushhog, etc...) you can easily exceed max payload ratings. The 18' length should be fine.
 

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I would be more concerned with what your half ton truck can handle than the trailer size.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think my pickup will be a problem.
Guess I wasn't very good with my wording. I been reading up on all the different trailer options and what folks claim to be best for their use. So my head is filled with all these options of types of trailers.

I don't want to sink a bunch of money in to a trailer mainly structured to haul the tractor and implements, or tractor with shredder. Tractor with loader only.
That will not be the main use of the trailer, but I need something capable of hauling the tractor if need be.
Considering the tractor with loader - 18' , 7k trailer should handle it fine, right?

I'm asking because I see most folks are sizing their trailers to haul their tractor tied to a shredder with additional implements riding along too.
I don't need to haul the farm around.

simple arithmetic tells me I'm good, but wanted to see if anyone has any good reasons to need go up to a 10k trailer.

Thanks
 

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I recommend getting a 10k 20’ trailer. It’s what I use to haul my 1026r. While I don’t do it often . I have hauled a couple of pickups and cars on it. You just never know what your going to need or want to haul in the future.

I hauled my dodge 2500 home from up north with my dads 150 with no issues. Dads f150 does have the max tow package on it. It tows just as well as my f250 with the gas 6.2 . Well almost, the 250 can handle more weight on the truck.
 

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I use a 16’ 7k trailer for my ex3200......and it works......do over would go 18’ 10k....not that much more $$
 

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A aluminum trailer would reduce the weight of the trailer a fair amount. They come up on Craig's List fairly often here. I'm thinking guys purchase the open trailer and then transport something on it in the winter. In turn, whatever your transporting becomes coated in salt spray (salt for anti-icing). At that point, they move to an enclosed trailer. They rarely show up on Craig's List. I suppose salt spray is not an issue where you are.

I built a steel trailer near 30 years ago now. I sandblasted it before I hung the axle and placed the wood decking, then painted it with it suspended from a gantry crane. I also caulked all the joints with body sealer after i sealed (primer) it. I coated the inside of the fenders with 3M Body Shotz undercoating. Within 6 years, the fenders were rusting out.
 

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I have a 3039R and a 18' trailer with a 2' dovetail (20' total).

Mine is a 10K trailer, but I stole it for $2,000.

18' length will be fine for the tractor and loader/bucket and give you enough wiggle room to balance the tongue weight.

I would recommend getting a weight distributing hitch and you can move some tongue weight forward on the truck and it pulls much nicer.

I would also recommend trailer brakes as well.

For infrequent use and short trips you should be fine.
 

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An 18' trailer is enough room for your 3033r, and a 7k GVWR should handle it fine. That said, 18' isn't going to give you much extra room if you want to add attachments, and if you add attachments than 7k is going to be pushing the limit pretty close. I used to move my previous 3320 on a 16' 10k, but at 16' there was no room for attachments. I now have a 23' 12k deck over, which allows me to add attachments and gives me a bit more payload, but I also move that with a 3500. I personally would go with at least a 20' 10k, but your main issue will be the capabilities of your truck. The F150 will move that size trailer, but I'm sure it will be coming close to or over the tow rating pretty quickly. In the grand scheme of things, an 18' 7k may be the best compromise.
 

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here is a pic of my 4510 on a 16' 10k trailer...



As you can see it's barely long enough. I would want at least 20' myself. dovetail would help too.
 

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As RTGT mentioned, think no matter what trailer you get, brakes are a must, and I would think both axles
 

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I think you will be fine with a 7K 18ft trailer as long as you stick to a few basics;

I would avoid prolonged high speed areas - Interstates etc
Brakes (You will need a brake controller and wiring harness (Not sure if F150 come pre wired) - I would go for all 4 wheels
Be extremely careful with placement on the trailer, especially when you consider tongue weight. 6-8 inches will make a HUGE difference, especially if you rear tires are loaded. Once you get a good tongue weight, and everything is set, mark the trailer with tire positions so it isn't a guess the next time.
Chains, Chains and Chains - 3039R isn't a small tractor and 4" nylon straps would probably be OK, assuming you can get a straight layover, which you probably can't. Chain the front and rear criss cross and put a separate tie down on the bucket. Towing is one thing, Towing something that moves or can move is a COMPLETELY different ball game. (I ran a 6000 gal tanker with no internal baffles - half full she was a handful)
 

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We use a 7K 18' Aluma "utility" trailer (car hauler w/rails) for the 3038e. The Aluma only weighs roughly 1200 lb. so there is still decent cargo capacity. Would not want anything smaller, the length can be useful for adjusting center of gravity and tongue weight. Car hauler width makes moving on the trailer during loading/unloading pretty easy.



Brakes on both 3.5K axles.
 

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I think trailers are like sheds, never big enough. I thought I would haul mostly garden tractors when I bought my 10K 20' car hauler. It's 106 wide IIRC, max width anyway. Within 2 years, I need a longer trailer and am considering a deckover. My point is don't just think of today, consider the future and other uses that will come up. My V6, 2014 F150 pulls the trailer fine, even at close to max weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
We use a 7K 18' Aluma "utility" trailer (car hauler w/rails) for the 3038e. The Aluma only weighs roughly 1200 lb. so there is still decent cargo capacity. Would not want anything smaller, the length can be useful for adjusting center of gravity and tongue weight. Car hauler width makes moving on the trailer during loading/unloading pretty easy.



Brakes on both 3.5K axles.
Now we're talkin....that is sweet! But, likely out of shootin range for me.... :gizmo:

Dear Santa,
 

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Fair warning on the F-150 (that's what we have also - 2008) if it has the factory tow package. The hitch probably needs weight distribution to accommodate the high end of the rated capacity. Without WD, the max is 500 lb tongue, 5000 lb towed weight. With WD it goes to 1,100 lb tongue, 11,000 lb towed weight (this is for the hitch - not the actual truck tow capacity).

We can stay under the 500/5000 limit with the 3038e on the aluma as long as we aren't carrying more that just tractor, FEL & maybe tiller. If it was something heavier, we would need to attach the WD components like we do when using the dump trailer with heavy loads.
 
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