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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help to confirm it the above carb that drips fuel from the overflow hole in the bottom of the carb bowl when not running and fuel line open. I was amazed the carb worked so well after decades of no use but did notice this slow drip condition. Not sure if this is just by design and the fuel line shutoff and starve carb of fuel is the only option, or the carb needs to be adjusted or overhauled. Appreciate the feedback......
 

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You may have a float that doesn't "float", but I think you'd drain the fuel tank quickly. Next would be the needle valve doesn't fit quite right. A new needle & float kit may fix both problems., but I don't remember if the seat is replaceable... probably 30-40 years since I messed with my "L" carb!
Last, fuel tank is above carb so fuel "wants" to flow into carb. Turn petcock on sediment bowl off... problem solved! Bob
 

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The carbs are gravity fed like rwmeyer said so its constantly getting fuel pressure to the carb unless you use the shutoff valve at the glass sediment bowl. My Oliver super 55 had the same issue and it was the float valve itself and not the float sticking. If the carb still has the original internals it's just going to be a brass valve that sits in a brass orifice. Carb is most likely working as it should. New rebuild kits have a neoprene on the float valve tip which greatly improve the stopping of fuel flow once the bowl is full. Super easy carbs to rebuild. fuel/air screw is typically 1 1/2 turns out from bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You may have a float that doesn't "float", but I think you'd drain the fuel tank quickly. Next would be the needle valve doesn't fit quite right. A new needle & float kit may fix both problems., but I don't remember if the seat is replaceable... probably 30-40 years since I messed with my "L" carb!
Last, fuel tank is above carb so fuel "wants" to flow into carb. Turn petcock on sediment bowl off... problem solved! Bob
Thanks for the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You may have a float that doesn't "float", but I think you'd drain the fuel tank quickly. Next would be the needle valve doesn't fit quite right. A new needle & float kit may fix both problems., but I don't remember if the seat is replaceable... probably 30-40 years since I messed with my "L" carb!
Last, fuel tank is above carb so fuel "wants" to flow into carb. Turn petcock on sediment bowl off... problem solved! Bob
Thanks for the feedback!
 

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Registered
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The carbs are gravity fed like rwmeyer said so its constantly getting fuel pressure to the carb unless you use the shutoff valve at the glass sediment bowl. My Oliver super 55 had the same issue and it was the float valve itself and not the float sticking. If the carb still has the original internals it's just going to be a brass valve that sits in a brass orifice. Carb is most likely working as it should. New rebuild kits have a neoprene on the float valve tip which greatly improve the stopping of fuel flow once the bowl is full. Super easy carbs to rebuild. fuel/air screw is typically 1 1/2 turns out from bottom.
Thanks for the feedback,
 
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