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I am restoring my 1945 B back to good running condition with the hope of using it around the property to do some minor work. it was purchased by my great grandfather new in 1945, he used it as his only tractor until he stopped farming in the late 70's. At that point it just sat in the barn and was only started a few times over the years. I gave it a repaint in 1993, nothing show quality just something to keep it from rusting up. After that I drive it back to the barn until 5 years ago when I started it and drove it into my garage. Then this year I started going over it trying to get it dependable to run again.
It is not my intention to make a show tractor but I want it to be safe to use again. I have pulled the magneto off and sent it out to be rebuilt since it did not want to make any spark the last time I tried to start it. I am working on the fuel system now , replacing the sediment bowl and valve. I recently got a reprint of the owners manual and thought I would change all of the fluids. I pulled the drain plug on the motor oil and nothing came out so I stuck my finger in the hole and it was a Goo sludge mess. I have no idea how I can get this stuff out of there or what the plan should be now . I expected it to be nasty but not this bad.
 

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:wgtt:

Glad to hear of your project! I think it'll bring you a lot of pride and satisfaction knowing you kept it and did it yourself. I too am restoring a tractor that belonged to my grandfather. It's worth more to me than my new JDs.

Try adding some gasoline to the engine. You can then use a wire rod or something similar to push up the drain hole to help get things going. You could also remove the engine/crankcase inspection cover to see what's going on. :good2:

Keep us up to date on how it goes. I can't wait to see your progress. :thumbup1gif:
 

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exline; welcome to GTT from another pa. where at in pa. are u? I knew a guy that had a last name like urs when I hauled steel back in the 90's, he hauled steel too.

if I was u , I would pour some kerosene in the motor and let soak for a while, I think it would eventually soak thru the goo, and run out. my dad had a 1938 b just like urs. that's what i got throwed off and got my collar bone broke when I was kid. good luck, ur fine lots of good info here. big jim
 
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thanks for the reply. I left the drain plug out and it finally started to drain. I think I will try flushing it out with kerosene.
I am from warfordsburg, its close to breezewood. I don't haul steel but I use a lot of it. I restore cars and also make new body panels for them. this tractor was actually my first paint job , I did it in highschool. I always liked this tractor, I remember once when we were bailing hay and our 4020 broke just as we were finishing our last load and I pulled the B out of the barn and finished with it. after that I always thought that I would like to do something with this B other than let it sit. hopefully the time has come to start using it for something again.
the magneto is at Roberts carburetor getting rebuilt, it will probably be done in January. I am hoping to have it ready to start up again by then.
 

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exline; boy were pretty close, good to know! schellsburg,pa. for me. good luck and enjoy! big jim
 

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hey dieselshadow are u sleeping yet, or well anyone who can run these threads into one for this fella! sorry diesel forgot maybe ur was in hottub!!!! thanks big jim
 

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I drained the transmission and it was not as bad as the motor. the owners manual says to use sae 90 oil. is this still the best oil to use? napa has 80w90 for cheaper than sae 90, does it make that much difference?
 

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Hello exline,

Welcome to GTT. :greentractorride: Looks like a nice project on the "B".
 
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I drained the transmission and it was not as bad as the motor. the owners manual says to use sae 90 oil. is this still the best oil to use? napa has 80w90 for cheaper than sae 90, does it make that much difference?
Any of today's modern oils are far superior to yester-years. I wouldn't hesitate to use 80w90 myself. Buckets of it seem to be easy to get and reasonably priced.
 

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dieselshadow is right, you wont hurt anything using an 80/90 but before i would top it off with that, i would put 5 gallons of diesel in it and drive it around for awhile in all gears including reverse, without a load or pulling any real tall hills, you will be amazed at the color of the diesel when you drain that out, and i would do that until you can live with the color of it when it drains. Based on the oil filter i think i would flush the transmission twice. I know red fuel is cheaper, but when i flush i use highway diesel, you get a lot better idea of what comes out without having to use a magnet or strain it. if it has a pto i wouldnt be afraid to engage it when i was driving it around either. Once i was okay with the color i would leave it open a day or so then top it off with 80/90.
 

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Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable than I can substantiate this. Sometime after I rebuilt the tranny, differential, and final drive on a '50 B, I read that the gear oil needs to have, or lack, certain additives (can't remember which) to avoid damage to the bronze bushings in the older tractors, i.e. PTO shaft and elsewhere. The wrong stuff could supposedly leach out the copper, lead, or some other component used in bearing type bronze. It may have something to do with the "GL" number.
I apologize for not knowing the whole story, just wanting to help the gentleman to not spend hard earned money on the wrong thing.
Can anyone add better guidance for the type? I agree with the 80w-90, especially if the tractor will see some cold weather use.

tommyhawk
 

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thanks for the advice. I did buy an owners manual and it also said to fill the trans with kerosene and drive it around a little then drain it. flushing it at least twice probably makes sense.
I sent the magneto out to be rebuilt a couple months ago and they told me today that it will probably be march until I get it back. i hope it is worth the wait. i guess that gives me time to get everything else done. i still need to replace the exhaust pipe and some of the wiring and a couple of the gauges.
 

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You should find the model number on the opposite side from the picture. Just above the cast boss for the choke shaft there should be cast letters such as DTLX, then a small machined square with numbers stamped, maybe 37. You might have to scrape some paint and varnish off to read it clearly. Sorry, I don't know what number carb. is correct for a 1945 model year B.

tommyhawk
 

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Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable than I can substantiate this. Sometime after I rebuilt the tranny, differential, and final drive on a '50 B, I read that the gear oil needs to have, or lack, certain additives (can't remember which) to avoid damage to the bronze bushings in the older tractors, i.e. PTO shaft and elsewhere. The wrong stuff could supposedly leach out the copper, lead, or some other component used in bearing type bronze. It may have something to do with the "GL" number.
I apologize for not knowing the whole story, just wanting to help the gentleman to not spend hard earned money on the wrong thing.
Can anyone add better guidance for the type? I agree with the 80w-90, especially if the tractor will see some cold weather use.

tommyhawk
Your exactly right. The GL-1 rated gear oil is what you need for these old tractors. The multi-viscosity oils are probably GL-5, that etches out the bushing metals that supply lubricity.
 

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I finally got the magneto back and bolted on and rebuilt the carb and installed it also. i had to drift start it because the started turned a couple times and quit. but it started up easy and once it warmed up it ran good.
my question is about the starter. are they easy to get parts for and rebuild? sometimes i can get it to crank but then it stops like there could be a short or the switch may be going bad.
it there somewhere to buy a hand crank or get the dimensions to make my own hand crank?
i did notice that the temperature gauge does not work so that needs fixed but the oil pressure gauge works and it had pressure. i only ran it enough to let it get warm and make a lap around the field.
 

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Just about any descent starter / alt shop can rebuild it. Shop close to me does mine for about 50-65 bucks a whack. They arent anything special but it does sound like a switch or wire issue.

They did make a part that would bolt on to the flywheel so that you could take the steering wheel off and hand crank it for times when the battery was dead. I think i have a couple of them laying around.
 

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I fixed the starter issue. it was just a loose wire and now it works great. with the rebuilt carb and magneto it starts easy and runs good. I just purchased a pull behind brush hog. it was supposed to be a 5' but turned out to be 6'. since I drove almost 3 hours to pick it up I took it anyway. I cut my field with it and running in 2nd gear it worked great. I tried putting the shifter into neutral a couple times quick just incase I needed to stop fast with out the momentum of the blade pushing the tractor and I feel safe using it that way at low speed.
I would still like to make a 3 point hitch so that I can use some other attachments but I want to put a little extra weight on the front first.
 

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