[FoCo47]

Hi,
I replaced the brake pad on my 1947 A a few months ago. After the change, the clutch lever (I'm not sure what it is officially called) won't stay in position when pushed forward to engage the clutch. The only way the tractor moves is to hold the lever in the forward/engaged position.

I thought maybe a clutch adjustment would help so I adjusted the three king nuts in and out, but the lever still won't stay in place when the clutch is engaged. No luck.

This week I've been working on the clutch lever linkage, trying to determine if the new brake pad changed the geometry. No luck. The clutch has a decent clunk when it engages and releases, but I have to keep forward pressure on the lever to move. There is a lot of slop in the pin at the bottom of the clutch lever, and also at the pin at the front end where the rod connects to the brake pad assembly. (Sorry I don't have a print to show you part numbers).

I hope that's clear enough for someone to visualize. I'm thinking maybe I need to put new bushings or washers or something to remove the play at both ends of the linkage. Or am I missing something else? Thank you for the help.

 

[Trebor]

That's really hard to decipher, because all the years I've run our 50, when you hear the clunk it's engaged. I guess what I would try is another 1/4 turn of the castle nuts.

 

[FoCo47]

That helps. I must not have it quite right, yet. I'll try making smaller adjustments.

(Here's another try at explaining the problem:
With the tractor off, when I push the clutch lever forward (engaged) I hear a clunk. When I take my hand off of the lever, I can turn the drum by hand. If I put just the smallest amount of pressure pushing forward on the lever, the drum will not turn).

 

[Tx Jim]

That's really hard to decipher, because all the years I've run our 50, when you hear the clunk it's engaged. I guess what I would try is another 1/4 turn of the castle nuts.

Ditto tightening nuts is the only method to get clutch "to snap in" Loosening nuts only makes condition worse. I'll guess toggles(item 23)& dogs(item 24) are worn to much or hole in drive hub that locating pin(item 20) goes in is worn oblong not round. Another possibility is clutch facings are worn too thin.

 

[tommyhawk]

Did the clutch work properly before the clutch pulley brake pad was replaced?
I agree with TxJim, the problem is something internal. Don't worry too much about the worn pins and holes in the clutch lever linkage for now. That repair can be done later.

tommyhawk

 

[FoCo47]

Thank you all for pointing me to the clutch, and away from the linkage. Something worn internally makes more sense. It's really helpful to have someone to discuss this with.

Tommyhawk: I know it worked properly when my father in law gave me the tractor a few years ago. But it's a good question, now that you mention it. Before the brake pad change, I'm sure I was leaning on the lever to make the tractor go. It happened slowly over time and I was just used to it. After the break pad change, I had to adjust the bolt at the top of the brake pad so it would move, and that got me messing with both the clutch and the linkage.

Anyway, I'll work on the clutch adjustment a little more this weekend as a first attempt. If that doesn't work, I'll watch some youtube videos and figure out how to get to the toggles and dogs, etc.

Thank you again for the direction, and I appreciate your time. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Tx Jim]

To view/inspect toggles/dogs one needs to remove 4 capscrews holding clutch fork operating shaft. Pull clutch fork assembly then remove capscrew in end of crankshaft so clutch driver can be removed from crankshaft. Clutch driver has tapered splined so it must be pulled off crankshaft splines with bolts or a puller. After driver & clutch plates have been removed then pulley can be removed. This would be an excellent time to check bearing & pack brg with grease.

 

[tommyhawk]

I'm not sure about a 1947 A, but with a late model B, the right rear wheel must be moved out to the wide width (as in mounting cultivators) to have enough clearance to remove the clutch pulley completely. If that becomes necessary. I think the operating parts will all come out without doing this. I highly recommend obtaining a service manual to guide you with all these repairs. Unfortunately, to my knowledge, JD made a complete manual for the B, but did not make a complete one for the A. There was a supplement at one time that included some specific A specs. Most of the procedures are the same, even some of the parts. Other parts are bigger and heavier for an A. The clutch is larger and has more discs for instance.
Hang in there. Best part of having one is being able to bring them back to correct working order. That is unless you have a farm or a way to get out and work it for real!

tommyhawk

 

[FoCo47]

Tx Jim - Thanks for the instructions. I watched part of a Steiner Tractor video series last night, and that was really helpful. I hope to try taking it apart on Sunday.

tommyhawk - I agree about bringing it back to working order. It's such a great piece of machinery, and it's been in my wife's family since it was new so there's a lot of pressure to keep it running!

 

[Tx Jim]

I'm not sure about a 1947 A, but with a late model B, the right rear wheel must be moved out to the wide width (as in mounting cultivators) to have enough clearance to remove the clutch pulley completely. Other parts are bigger and heavier for an A. The clutch is larger and has more discs for instance.
tommyhawk

Requirement to move rear wheel will be determined by rear wheel tread spacing. Actually late model A & B clutch assemblies are very similar with the same number of discs. I agree model A clutch components are larger/heavier than model B clutch components.

 

[FoCo47]

Got everything apart and the rear tire is just a little bit too close to remove the clutch pulley. I didn't appreciate Tx Jim's thought that the tread spacing might give me enough room until just now. I'll see if I can move it enough to find a space to allow me to get the pulley out. Otherwise I'll figure out how to slide the tire out a couple of inches.

 

[FoCo47]

I was able to get the pulley off. Had to move the tire about 4" outboard but luckily it wasn't stuck too bad.
How do I get the sleeve off? (the part that moves back and forth?) There's a lot of slop in the pin to sleeve connection. That could easily be my problem but I couldn't figure out how to get the sleeve off to see if hole is oblong. If it is wallowed out, then what do I do?

 

[Tx Jim]

IIRC one must utilize a hyd press to pull sleeve off of clutch pulley.

 

[FoCo47]

I found a manual that confirms I have to pull the pulley gear off and remove a snap ring to get the operating sleeve off. (I have a short video showing the looseness between the sleeve and gear. It looks like the only way to post it is through YouTube? I'm not ready to learn that just yet).

We went to our County Fair a couple of weeks ago. An old JD tractor had a poster with a link to a local antique club. I emailed a couple of the board members asking for information about any mechanics who might be able to help me diagnose this too.