What do you mean when you say the tractor is still stuck after 3 years of trying to un-stuck it?
Do you mean it’s physically stuck in the ground?
Do you mean it’s physically stuck in the ground?
1950 A puller restoration
Starting to compile a list of parts/ideas. The tractor is currently stuck with 3 years of failed attempts of un sticking. It also has bearings out of the rear axles. I am thinking a mild stroke with m&w style over bore pistons, or getting custom pistons from ray at extreme tractor parts. I will have the head and block decked to make sure the sealing surface is true. This tractor is a gas burner so it already has the smaller combustion chamber head so I dont think I will have to do much machining but a lot of people have the eyebrows blended back. I may use smaller fly weights in the governor to slightly bring up rpm and better the responsiveness. I want to run 91 octane pump gas and stay away from av gas so the compression will need to stay around 8:1. I am thinking along the lines of 60 hp when I am done. Tractor should still be stock appearing and very competative.
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Generally that's the term used for the engine will not move. Usually caused by the Piston rings rusting to the cylinder walls.What do you mean when you say the tractor is still stuck after 3 years of trying to un-stuck it?
Do you mean it’s physically stuck in the ground?
There are many ways to try to get them unstuck, each can be more extreme. One normally starts by putting something to free the rings up in the cylinders waiting and praying.
Yep, the engine is froze. It is hard to work on it when its 30 minutes away currently. As soon as my 46 is back together it will go sleep over at my parents in the nice new warm shop and the '50 model will come home. Only enough room in the garage for one so the wife can still park in there.
As MDrew mentioned, there are lots of things to try to get the pistons free to move. Probably as many ways as there are people who have done it. What have you tried so far?
tommyhawk
tommyhawk
All I have done over the time I have owned the tractor is have the cylinders soaking in various fluids. The problem is the right cylinder, as everything I put in the left side has gotten past the rings and ended up in the crank case. I do have the front end up about 3 feet off the ground. I also have about 200 pounds hanging from a 5 foot long bar that is attached to the flywheel. Every time I'm up there I hope those weights are touching the ground lol.
Generally that's the term used for the engine will not move. Usually caused by the Piston rings rusting to the cylinder walls.
There are many ways to try to get them unstuck, each can be more extreme. One normally starts by putting something to free the rings up in the cylinders waiting and praying.
Ahhh...understood, I always just say “seized” or “won’t turn over”.
Having no experience with 2 cylinder John Deere’s, I’m assuming it’s not possible to remove the cylinder head?
Or are you trying to avoid taking the head(s) off?
Have you tried ATF?
I have tried the atf, and no offense guys but I dont want this to turn into a second restoration forum. I am looking for ideas and tricks/parts for making power while maintaining the stock appearance.
I made a call today, and I think I will be going with custom pistons on my A puller build. They will be around 1400 bucks and stroking the tractor will be near double that. The bump in compression that the pistons will offer with a little head work and a custom cam grind should be plenty to make the tractor competative and still be able to play with it as far as parades and gardening.
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