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Looking for information on How-To replace the primary and secondary drive belts on my
1967 JD 110 round fender. Have the correct JD belts. Any leads are greatly appreciated!
Thank You.
 

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Chief Stick-picker-upper
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Looking for information on How-To replace the primary and secondary drive belts on my
1967 JD 110 round fender. Have the correct JD belts. Any leads are greatly appreciated!
Thank You.
The instructions below will explain the procedure for your 110 round fender.





 

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Procedure above is for the square fender tractors and though similar to a round fender, there are some differences in how to adjust the variator and clutch, which you must do when replacing belts. Here are the pages for a '67 tractor.
 

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Chief Stick-picker-upper
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Procedure above is for the square fender tractors and though similar to a round fender, there are some differences in how to adjust the variator and clutch, which you must do when replacing belts. Here are the pages for a '67 tractor.
Thanks for correcting my mistake. :good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
T-Mo I greatly Thank You.
That manual is date marked 1967 so it’s right on. Funny I’ve had a manual every since I bought the 110 in 1970 shows round fenders no date marks and is different.
Looking at the secondary belt with variator forward still has lots of tension. Thinking of cutting belt unbolting two of the three bolts on the drive pulley then pulling variator in back position changing out primary belt. Then winding on secondary belt and rebolting pulley.
Anybody actually do this? And if so how does that sound?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well that worked out, just needed to pull up the belt tension pulley and get it out of the way.
Now for the test ride, Super just need to adjust a bit. WOOPS!!!! Oil
where is all that oil coming from? I pulled the belt shaft on the engine and the shaft seal is leaking.
It's small and I don't have the slightest clue as to what is involved to replace or fix?
Any one have any ideas????????????? Thanks.
 

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Give Norman a call and a bit of business if he explains the process. Where this is a seal kit only I’m betting you can pull it with a couple screws and tap the new one in with pipe. I haven’t had to replace one, knock on wood.

Oil Seat Set for Kohler K141, K161, K181,Kohler K Series
 
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Discussion Starter #8
rydpirs, Thanks, really do appreciate your response!! I will be giving a call soon.
 

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Well I got a wheel puller & removed the pulley. after a call to Norman (very helpful) on how to remove and replace the seal, finally got up the nerve and drilled two holes one at 3'oclock the other a 9 o'clock screwed in drywall screws and after some cussin' and wigglin' the dang thing actually came out. Then slipped over a piece of pvc pipe and carefully tapped in the new seal. Cranked up the ole' Kohler and no leaking! Job done. Well almost. Slipped the pulley back on over that keyway and got the primary belt back on.
Well can't shift, no clutch. So need to adjust the belts per manual. print out above. Gotta be 1/2" peddle space from floor board I'm assuming with your foot stompin' on it, then feeling that 1/2"???? So it states turn cleavis, my peddle seems as thogh it needs to come down?, so do I turn the clevis shaft left to do that? It says to hold link "A" up, that doesn't seem posible to reach. Any thoughts? Ideas?
Funny thing after putting on new belts, I went for a very short test ride and the adjustment had to be close, it didn't grind, then spotted the leak. Now put it back together and there is no way can I put it in gear while the engine is running.
 

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It has been awhile from the last time I did this adjustment, but from what I recall you do not stomp on the brake to get that measurement. Follow the instructions that T-Mon sent to the tee and you will be OK. It does not make sense that everything was OK until you pulled the drive sheave off the engine shaft.
 
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