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Picked up a 1983 JD Model 420 this spring to put a grapple on. It runs very well but the brakes are almost non-existent. So a few questions:

1) How strong are the brakes on a 420 when they are working good?

2) I don't have a repair manual yet (on order), so are there any tricks to making a brake job easier?

3) Are there any recommendations as far as what should be replaced while I'm in there?

Thanks, Steve.
420 removing tarp.jpg
 

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Well, should be as strong as the brakes on my 318, which will stop a tire on asphalt.
You are also, when you step on the brake, trying to override the hydro, so take that into account too.
If you step on both at the same time, it will push the lever down, and take a bit more effort.

Id try just adjusting them first. You can see the spring adjuster from the rear, above the axle, on both sides.

Taking the drums off of these can be a nightmare. Chances are, if they arent working well, they just need a simple adjustment. If that doesnt work, THEN tear into it.

There are several threads, or used to be, over on wfmachines.com about the process and difficulty.

I used to have a PDF of a manual around that was small enough to email. Not sure I still do. I do have the full size version if you just need a small portion about the adjustment.
In any case, youll want the Tech Manual (TM prefix) for the tractor itself, and for the engine, you will need the Component Technical Manual (CTM prefix)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks

Well, should be as strong as the brakes on my 318, which will stop a tire on asphalt.
You are also, when you step on the brake, trying to override the hydro, so take that into account too.
If you step on both at the same time, it will push the lever down, and take a bit more effort.

Id try just adjusting them first. You can see the spring adjuster from the rear, above the axle, on both sides.

Taking the drums off of these can be a nightmare. Chances are, if they arent working well, they just need a simple adjustment. If that doesnt work, THEN tear into it.

There are several threads, or used to be, over on wfmachines.com about the process and difficulty.

I used to have a PDF of a manual around that was small enough to email. Not sure I still do. I do have the full size version if you just need a small portion about the adjustment.
In any case, youll want the Tech Manual (TM prefix) for the tractor itself, and for the engine, you will need the Component Technical Manual (CTM prefix)
Thank you Jim. I now have the manual. I just need time to dig into it. I know that the left hand side can't be adjusted to work, I can see and end of the return spring sticking out around the drum, so I'm assuming that it's snapped and has to be replaced. And if I have to do that one, then I'm going to have to do the right hand one or they won't be even anymore and will pull to the side. Not a bid deal.

Steve.
 

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Having my 92 420 since new I never remember using the brakes. I always just used the hand hydro control. I only used the parking brakes when I had to. The biggest thing I had to get use to when I moved to the 1025 was using the two foot hydro pedals.
 

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Having my 92 420 since new I never remember using the brakes. I always just used the hand hydro control. I only used the parking brakes when I had to. The biggest thing I had to get use to when I moved to the 1025 was using the two foot hydro pedals.
I only use mine in the Winter when pushing or blowing snow. Hard to turn with either attachment on the ground up front.
 
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