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I need help figuring out which wire goes where. If anyone has a picture of one with the wires hooked up that would be a big help...thanks.
 

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What is the Solenoid for on your JD?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It has all the wires hook to it...from the starter and the battery and the ignition switch.
 

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OK, that sounds like the starter solenoid and there will be 2 large studs on it, plus one smaller one. One large stud, typically the out side one, connects to the battery and has a smaller wire going to ignition switch. The other large terminal goes straight to the starter motor. The small terminal should be a pink or purple colored wire and should have voltage ONLY when key is in "Start". Hope this helps. Bob
 
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108 and 111 wiring diagram.
The large RED wire from the Battery is connected to one of the large terminals of the solenoid.
The large RED wire from the Starter is connected to the other large terminal of the solenoid.
The Purple wire from the Ignition Switch is connected to the small terminal.


 

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Hmmm, I wasn't expecting to see 4 terminals! My explanation and both of Michael's pics show 3 terminals. I'm positive it will work, but it must be connected correctly! So, a couple of questions!
Did any wiring diagrams/connection instructions come with solenoid?
Do you have a multimeter? If not, go to Harbor Freight or some local box store and get one. If you're unsure how to use it, post a pic and we'll walk you through using it.

The large studs are not an issue, one to battery, one to starter motor. My concern is the 2 smaller terminals and what they're connect to internally on the solenoid. Unless someone else responds to this post, please answer my questions... but I think wiring instructions and/or a meter is definitely needed! Bob
 

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One small post is the signal wire, the other provides 12v for ignition and accessories, otherwise you need 2 wires on the battery post. One to the battery, and a smaller one powering the original.

You can wire them either way, this has been pretty standard for solenoids for 40+ years. JD and ford only used 3 terminals, everyone else used 4, the aftermarket options have 4 posts, but you might only use 3

If the small terminals aren’t labeled you can just guess and check, if it clicks you have the right one, if nothing happens you got the wrong one, but haven’t damaged anything
 

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If 4 terminals two large and two small, the two small are for the solenoid coil. one is 12v in, the other, ground.
So the purple wire is the "12v when key is in start" goes to one of the small terminals, ground the other.
On solenoids with only 3 terminals two large and one small, the internal coil grounds through the solenoid mount.
 

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Zebra, Could be, or maybe not! Way back when, the forth terminal was, as ryd stated, for the ignition system. Older vehicles AND tractors sometimes use a ballast resistor or a specific resistance wire going to the coil. When starting, the second terminal on the solenoid would provide a full 12v to the coil. With the advent of more modern ignition systems I don't believe (??) the resistive wire or ballast resistor is used. This is why I mentioned a wiring diagram of the coil or a meter is needed to verify 100% what's connected to what... or not!

I would think(??) one large post should be isolated from everything else. The second may be isolated, or connected to a smaller terminal. One small terminal may (??) be isolated from the other small terminal or connected through the coil. I don't know FOR SURE, nor do you, or ryd, or the OP, but 5 minutes with a meter will verify everything. Bob
 

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All the op needs is 3 terminals. The absolute worst case is he has to replace a ring terminal.

I have never once fretted over a solenoid. I go in the shed and grab the first one I find and make it work. Everything Deere I’ve worked on with a stand alone solenoid uses 3 terminals, so it really doesn’t matter what the 4th one does, ground or battery the solenoid can ground through the mount, and you don’t burn anything up trying the 4th terminal.


The 3/4 terminal design has nothing to do with the internal or external resistance coils. The resistor was generally mounted on the firewall amd then fed the coil, it got its power from the ignition switch, and it didn’t matter where that power came from.
 

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OK, I'm NOT going to get into a pi$$in' contest over this. OP is confused as how to connect, I say check things, you say wire it up. OP can wire as you stated in your post #8. I'm outa here! Bob
 

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OK, I'm NOT going to get into a pi$$in' contest over this. OP is confused as how to connect, I say check things, you say wire it up. OP can wire as you stated in your post #8. I'm outa here! Bob
You and flyweight gave him the correct advice to start. I just feel you over complicated what to do about the 4th post. I think the right tool for the job is a bit of knowledge, not a multi meter.

I would have ignored the part about resistor coils if it was factually correct.
 

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ryd, My comment on ballast resistors and resistive wire IS correct, at least for the '55-64 Chevy's I've worked on. The + terminal on the coil has 2 wires. One wire, if "standard/normal resistance per wire gauge", goes to a ballast resistor and the ballast resistor is then connected to the ignition switch. If no ballast resistor, a specific resistance wire is used and this goes directly to the ignition switch. The second wire goes to the "I" terminal on the starter solenoid.

And "Yes, I DO tend to over complicate my replies." The old, 'feed a man a fish or teach a man to fish' has a lot of merit! I don't know the OP's knowledge or skill level, in this post and many others. He could be 75 years old, still wrenching since he was 5, or could also get confused on how to adjust an adjustable wrench. I prefer to spend the extra time to explain what to, how to do it, and why to do it that way because it does this.... Where you say, 'Connect wire,' I say, 'Inspect terminals, clean if necessary with contact cleaner and/or wire brush. Install terminal and secure. Cover/coat with dielectric grease...Vaseline will also work... to help prevent future corrosion. It's just my "style" and the way that I reply. Bob
 

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That may have been how a 55/56 chevy was wired, but it’s not why it was wired that way. There is a very important difference in those two statements, that is very important to the OP.

The statement that he has to find out how the 4 terminal is wired internally is also not correct, he can figure it out if he wants to, but it absolutely is not required.

Being articulate is key to actually helping someone, taking speculative statements and making them into declarative statements only leads confusion and misunderstanding. As someone who uses forms often to learn about new things I know just how frustrating it is when you find similar answers and waste hours only to find out facts given are not actually true, and then searching for another source. I just went through hours of unhelpful threads about the integrated brake controller on my truck. Atleast 50% of them have you looking at grounds that aren’t even related, or blindly changing parts. I don’t think anyone involved is being malicious, but their attempts to help are not helpful, so when a thread I’m involved in has bad information I feel it’s important to clarify those points, both for the OP, and for future google searchers.
 

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I'll say you're correct on your second statement above that the OP doesn't have to know the internal circuitry of the solenoid, BUT! He asked a question and if I am going to supply an answer I need to know what's connected and what's not. I cannot and will not advise a poster to "guess" and connect something! You've got the answers, so I'll just read along! Bob
 
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