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I just bought a 425AWS. The deck is in the up position. Both hydraulic levers are froze, will not move. It has a 60 inch deck. Can not see what the levers control. I read on Google about people spraying and tapping a valve to break the valve loose. I cannot locate the valve. Does anyone have a pic? Should I remove the deck? The 425 sat for 5 years before I bought it.
 

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Did this tractor sit unused or without a mower deck? The valves will freeze up and you have to soak them with pb blaster and work them until they free up.
 

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The valve is probably just frozen up, but it could be a sign of something worse. Soak it good as others have suggested.

Just FYI, those hydraulic valves are for sale used all of the time on Ebay, etc.

Also, make sure the hydro pedals move freely.

Don't force anything that is stuck, work them back and forth slowly.

Don't be surprised if the Differential lock seal is leaking along with the front steering cylinder and a few of the other hydraulic and hydro items until the seals get lubricated and things get used to working again. Anything that does leak, I wouldn't immediately replace it until it is given time to possibly sort itself out, which does happen. Some of these once working again, might swell up and stop leaking if they are leaking in the early hours of use.


These are really good machines that are well built. But time unused is tough on them, especially if they weren't well maintained before their idle time.

Make sure you let us know what you find.
 

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Forgive my first response. My brain damage kicked in. You can see the valve under the left side footrest. If nobody used the tractor with a loader, snowblower, or front blade, you won't see quick couplers on the valve, just caps where the quick connects would be. The 425 didn't come with factory QC fittings. The valve will be there just the same right below the differential lock. Your levers next to the steering wheel have rod linkages that attach to the inside of that valve. You'll have to stick your head up under the valve to see the pivots but they will be there. Unless the linkages are damaged, which is doubtful, the valves are likely just frozen in neutral. Its really common for the bottom lever to be frozen on a machine that has never used any attachments other than a mower deck. The bottom lever serves no purpose on the mower deck. It might be worth your while to take the deck off to work on them. Just be damn careful because that deck is very heavy and it being suspended by the lift arms isn't the most ideal situation for removal. Block up the sides enough to pull the rear pins safely and then take the blocks out. The driveshaft connects to the front of the hydro just above the filter. Pull the plastic lock ring toward the front and give it a quarter turn to hold it in place to slide the driveshaft off. Expect the driveshaft to come off hard if its been there a while. Its 2 pieces and is supposed to collapse within itself but if neglected it might not move easily. Pull the draft arm out the front and you should be free. You'll have to jack up the tractor to slide the deck out. I usually jack the front. With the deck removed you can slide right under and see what's going on with the valve and use a block of wood and a hammer to tap the valves to get them moving if need be. Just don't use gorilla tactics.

If you end up taking the deck off and you plan on using it to mow, pull the covers, slip the belt off and check the tensioner, and idlers. They always get neglected. The tensioner has a grease zerk that nobody greases and the idlers aren't greasable. The bearings in them are cheap and easy to replace but not with the deck installed. If they fail after you start using it you'll be cussing because they'll take the belt with them. $10 bearings v. a $65 belt and you have to pull the gearbox to replace the belt. Also, there's a plug on the side of the gearbox. Pull that plug out and check the gear oil for level, frothing, and age. It's easy to check with the deck off and a b!tch with it on. The gearboxes are $300 and up.
 

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I do not know about the OP's tractor, but, my 4105 has a mechanical lock that stops the handle from allowing the valve to operate,,,

After I released that, my valve was stuck,, some PB Blaster, and a couple days, and some wiggling,, the valve started working,,,

The valve latch,,,



the corroded linkage,,,

 

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Agree with what the others have said. It's easier if you have someone up top who can wiggle the levers while you're underneath. You should be able to see the rod movement (even if very minimal) which will lead you to the locations to lubricate. Be generous with it, maybe even multiple applications. Don't be too forceful, but don't be afraid to put a little muscle into it.

It's been awhile since I've had to free up a lever and normally it's the bottom one (I think) that is stuck because it's only used for attachments besides the mower deck. So, even if you don't have other attachments, move that lever on a regular basis to keep that from happening again.
 

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I do not know about the OP's tractor, but, my 4105 has a mechanical lock that stops the handle from allowing the valve to operate,,,

After I released that, my valve was stuck,, some PB Blaster, and a couple days, and some wiggling,, the valve started working,,,

The valve latch,,,



the corroded linkage,,,

No mechanical lock to worry about. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Those valves are notorious for freezing up from non use. Especially the lower valve with float position. I've had to get under the tractor and soak the rods with WD40, then take a rubber hammer and tap on them, not too hard, and have someone work the levers back and forth. They usually come free, and after they do, be sure and work them now and then to keep them free.
If you should need a new valve, I'm sure I've got one laying around, that I just need to get rid of. Good luck.
 
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