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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '98 JD 425 that had the PLASTIC cam gear go out on it last fall. Over the winter I replaced the Cam gear with a new steel gear. I also replaced the rest of the plastic gears inside the engine with new ones (oil pump water pump and governer gears). I reassemble engine and put everything back together. The engine runs great under no load, but found it would bog down when under load. Came to find out that it is only running on right cylinder (the left cylinder is not getting a spark). I swapped the igniter coils, and both coils work on the right side (but neither work on left). I just swapped out the Time Delay Module tonight (hoping that $20 fix would take care of it). Unfortunately still no spark to left side. I am thinking it is probably narrowed down now to either an issue with the igniter or the pulsors (I did check resistance over pulsors and they appear to be within spec). Thoughts on what my problem could be??? Or what I should do next? I am considering buying a new igniter ($270 for John Deere, but can get new online for $95), but hate to spend the money if that isn't problem... Thanks in advance for your help! :greentractorride:
 

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I have a '98 JD 425 that had the PLASTIC cam gear go out on it last fall. Over the winter I replaced the Cam gear with a new steel gear. I also replaced the rest of the plastic gears inside the engine with new ones (oil pump water pump and governer gears). I reassemble engine and put everything back together. The engine runs great under no load, but found it would bog down when under load. Came to find out that it is only running on right cylinder (the left cylinder is not getting a spark). I swapped the igniter coils, and both coils work on the right side (but neither work on left). I just swapped out the Time Delay Module tonight (hoping that $20 fix would take care of it). Unfortunately still no spark to left side. I am thinking it is probably narrowed down now to either an issue with the igniter or the pulsors (I did check resistance over pulsors and they appear to be within spec). Thoughts on what my problem could be??? Or what I should do next? I am considering buying a new igniter ($270 for John Deere, but can get new online for $95), but hate to spend the money if that isn't problem... Thanks in advance for your help! :greentractorride:
Do you have the JD Technical Service Manual for that tractor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I have a service manual for the Kawasaki FD620D that I downloaded... I also have general manual that came with the 425 (not much info in that though)
 

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I have a service manual for the Kawasaki FD620D that I downloaded... I also have general manual that came with the 425 (not much info in that though)
Do you know the vin number of your tractor? Specifically is the vin number under 070000 or 070001 or higher?
 

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I have the Technical Service manual in my hands for that tractor. I can post here for you copies of the pages specifically on the ignition schematics and testing procedures for the ignition system, depending upon the vin number. I may have to take pictures of the pages and post them that way as I don't have a scanner available.
 
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Not sure about VIN #. Product ID #: M00425A042076
That serial number is 042076 so it appears you are under the 070000 and lower schematics. Let me see if I can get pictures which you can use. It will take a few moments.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That could certainly be helpful! I do have info in the manual for the engine (the Kawasaki FD620D) that shows a chart of what resistance should be across igniter wires. Are you speaking of something similar? Have you dealt with these igniters much? Do you think the igniter could be bad? Would it be possible for one side to get spark and not the other (if it was an igniter issue)?
 

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That could certainly be helpful! I do have info in the manual for the engine (the Kawasaki FD620D) that shows a chart of what resistance should be across igniter wires. Are you speaking of something similar? Have you dealt with these igniters much? Do you think the igniter could be bad? Would it be possible for one side to get spark and not the other (if it was an igniter issue)?
My knowledge is limited on the 425 series as I have a 455 diesel. But I am going to download the test procedure pages for you to look at and it spells out the testing procedures and shows the testing points. Usually you can enlarge the digital pictures to be able to read the text but we will see.

From a quick glance, I am wondering if there is a fuse for the ignition system on the fuse panel. It seems to indicate as such in the schematics. Give me a couple of mins to get the photos loaded.
 
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Just in case the photos aren't large enough to read, do you have access to a regular fax machine or do you have a telephone number where I can send a regular fax copy of these pages? I know this is old tech but it's what I have to work with right now.....I can make a copy of the pages and send them via fax in about 4 mins if that is a possibility
 
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Here are the pictures of the Tech manual pages on the ignition testing for the 425. Text Material property Font Label
Auto part Metal
Text Document Font Technology Paper
Auto part
 
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I can enlarge them enough to read them easily so I hope you can as well......
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My knowledge is limited on the 425 series as I have a 455 diesel. But I am going to download the test procedure pages for you to look at and it spells out the testing procedures and shows the testing points. Usually you can enlarge the digital pictures to be able to read the text but we will see.

From a quick glance, I am wondering if there is a fuse for the ignition system on the fuse panel. It seems to indicate as such in the schematics. Give me a couple of mins to get the photos loaded.
Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Just in case the photos aren't large enough to read, do you have access to a regular fax machine or do you have a telephone number where I can send a regular fax copy of these pages? I know this is old tech but it's what I have to work with right now.....I can make a copy of the pages and send them via fax in about 4 mins if that is a possibility
I will get you a fax #.
 

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If you send them to 507-281-5206 (attn: Tim Jungers), I can get them in the morning. Otherwise if you can scan and email, you can email to [email protected]! Thanks a lot.
Can you open the pictures enough to read them as posted?
 
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Almost guaranteed it is the connectors that are at the ignitor box. There have been so many instances of this including mine. Unplug both of them and give them a really good cleaning with solvents. I connected and disconnected them over and over and finally go it to fire on both sides. I also added some conductive grease to the pins being careful not to cause a short between adjacent pins. I also pushed a pin between the sockets and their plastic housing to deform it a bit and get a connection.
 
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It's likely the connector in the photo with the pink, white/blue, yellow, green/white wires in it that you can see. That is the one that goes to each pulsar coil. It could also be the other one but I think that pulsars have a lower power output so are more susceptible to resistance.

 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks, Techie. I have disconnected / reconnected them several times as well, but I have not tried cleaning them at all. If that is the problem, that would make me very happy! I will have to try to clean each of them up good and see what happens. I appreciate the input!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Thanks for making me look closer at the wiring harness! I believe I discovered my problem. Take a look at the below picture. See what my problem is??? This is the wiring harness that comes off of the igniter (that connects to the wires from the pulsars).

Electronics Electrical connector Technology Electronic device Networking cables
 
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