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At 189 hours on my 1025R I checked with the local dealer who quoted me over $600 to do the 200 Hr service. Wondering what that was about I checked into it, and of course discovered what you all already know, that you can get the parts/oils you need at GreenTractorParts.com, and just go for it. The only thing to be careful to get right is to also order the correct air filter kit - it doesn't come with the 200 Hr service bundle as you have to determine which filter housing you have.
It's really only two fluid changes, and the fuel and air filters. It's easier than on a car actually as there are no lifts involved. Watch a couple videos and have a few tools handy and save yourself like $450 with 2 hours of labor. Just do it!
A couple of things i found helpful... Power wash or at least hose down the dirt so you're working in a cleaner environment. Do take the rear wheel off. It's just easier that way. If you have weights or pickle juice in the tires it adds a little work, but the access is worth it IMHO. You don't need to mess with the hose clamps at the hydraulic fluid screen fitting at all if you follow TTWT's video advice about loosening the 13mm bolt at the back. When re-installing, fit the open/outer screen end into the external fitting before attempting to push it back into the oil pan. That way it will be already centered where it belongs. Also, use a Solo cup under the fuel filter and you'll avoid any fuel hitting the floor at all. The tractor will probably stall on the first start after the filter's been re-installed but that's all. If you have compressed air, blow out the radiator from the back to clear the inevitable debris and dust. My tractor had a lot of funk in the radiator as I work it in dusty conditions a lot.
Also check your tractor for loose or missing bolts. I had one missing on the alternator bracket inner-end so the fan belt wasn't actually tight at all. Once replaced I was able to create the correct tension.
Hit all the zerks with grease, and check the front axle for Hygard level...
Super easy, and I really don't understand how they can get $600 for that short amount of work.
It's really only two fluid changes, and the fuel and air filters. It's easier than on a car actually as there are no lifts involved. Watch a couple videos and have a few tools handy and save yourself like $450 with 2 hours of labor. Just do it!
A couple of things i found helpful... Power wash or at least hose down the dirt so you're working in a cleaner environment. Do take the rear wheel off. It's just easier that way. If you have weights or pickle juice in the tires it adds a little work, but the access is worth it IMHO. You don't need to mess with the hose clamps at the hydraulic fluid screen fitting at all if you follow TTWT's video advice about loosening the 13mm bolt at the back. When re-installing, fit the open/outer screen end into the external fitting before attempting to push it back into the oil pan. That way it will be already centered where it belongs. Also, use a Solo cup under the fuel filter and you'll avoid any fuel hitting the floor at all. The tractor will probably stall on the first start after the filter's been re-installed but that's all. If you have compressed air, blow out the radiator from the back to clear the inevitable debris and dust. My tractor had a lot of funk in the radiator as I work it in dusty conditions a lot.
Also check your tractor for loose or missing bolts. I had one missing on the alternator bracket inner-end so the fan belt wasn't actually tight at all. Once replaced I was able to create the correct tension.
Hit all the zerks with grease, and check the front axle for Hygard level...
Super easy, and I really don't understand how they can get $600 for that short amount of work.