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2000 series independent deck lift leakdown: fixed

3879 Views 3 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Caledon Hills
Hey guys, newbie here. I posted this in another forum so here it is with an update. Hopefully it might help someone.

I bought a 2305 last spring mainly for mowing and light 3 point stuff. I bought it knowing about the fan/ filter being vulnerable, lack of position control, and some other minor annoying things, but as it turns out only one thing drives me crazy; the deck leaking down in a few minutes. Other than that this little tractor has blown me away with how much it can do.
Back to the leakdown solution, I noticed on my 5M that if I left the loader up a little bit that it would stay that way indefinitely. This got me thinking about PO checks because I realized some or all of the 5000s (at least the 5Ms) have excellent load holding checks in their SCVs.
Here is what I came up with: a one way POCV. I just plugged the deck hose into the female coupler and the two hoses from the valve into the mid SCV and voila, the deck didn't leak down after several hours. The only negative thing so far is the engine has to be running to lower the deck (to get the pressure signal to release the valve). This could be fixed with a needle valve bypass but this adds expense. I got everything at Princess Auto for about 120 bucks. The valve was $75, hoses $4 each off the clearance shelf, and fittings were the rest.

Update: This has worked so well I can't believe it. The deck will stay ALL THE WAY UP for weeks on end without dropping at all. I left it for two weeks and visually it looked the same. I started the tractor, tried to raise the deck and it did not move; it was still right at the top.




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Tom :welcomedt

That is a great solution to very common complaint about the IL on these tractors, thanks for posting it.
Fantastic Tom, :good2: what a great idea. Was it a challenge to get everything mounted? And yes, these are amazing little machines. How long have you had it? any other mods you can share with us? Welcome to DT. Great post, thanks.

Thanks for the kind words.

The valve was very easy to mount using an existing hole in the ROPS support. The thought of using big tie wraps crossed my mind but I figured that was cheesy and wouldn't last with the pulsations; so time to start rooting around the steel scraps. A piece of 4" X 6" X 2.5" long angle, cut 4" leg to 3/4 inch, remove the inside radius, drill a 5/8 hole and two 1/4-20 holes for the valve, paint, and done.

I've had it for a year now with no problems at all.

The only other mod I've made is adding a Fasse splitter valve to the rear. That has a little story to it so I'll make another post about it.


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