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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a problem with my 4200 stalling when I put it in forward or reverse or if I engage the PTO. The PTO does engage but will cause the tractor to load down RPMs and stall. If I power forward or reverse it causes the same thing but will move forward some. Loader bucket works fine. I parked it a month or two back and was working fine. Any thoughts where I should start?
 

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I'm having a problem with my 4200 stalling when I put it in forward or reverse or if I engage the PTO. The PTO does engage but will cause the tractor to load down RPMs and stall. If I power forward or reverse it causes the same thing but will move forward some. Loader bucket works fine. I parked it a month or two back and was working fine. Any thoughts where I should start?
Just guessing, sounds like something locked up big time in the gear box since coming up on the clutch with
either PTO or forward/reverse drive gears will stop it.
Would guess they should be independent systems in gear box.
Did you try shifting between high and low range?

Loader bucket probably totally independent hydraulic system not dependent on clutch.
Just guessing here, probably will be an expert around soon.
Interesting problem.
 

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Old Pa-pa
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I'm having a problem with my 4200 stalling when I put it in forward or reverse or if I engage the PTO. The PTO does engage but will cause the tractor to load down RPMs and stall. If I power forward or reverse it causes the same thing but will move forward some. Loader bucket works fine. I parked it a month or two back and was working fine. Any thoughts where I should start?
Forget about my guessing in previous post, didn't see the "HST" part, thought you had an old regular SyncShift Transmission.
Sorry about that.

Cajun
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Forget about my guessing in previous post, didn't see the "HST" part, thought you had an old regular SyncShift Transmission.
Sorry about that.

Cajun
Thanks for responding. I'm checking fluid levels and cleaning currently. I only tried to engage in the low (A) gear setting. Didn't seem prudent to go to a higher gear. It will move about 2-3 feet but lugs the RPMs down and will die. The PTO will turn with or without attachment but has the same effect. The idle is smooth and starts well. Any help or feedback is appreciated. Haven't seen this happen before.
 

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Thanks for responding. I'm checking fluid levels and cleaning currently. I only tried to engage in the low (A) gear setting. Didn't seem prudent to go to a higher gear. It will move about 2-3 feet but lugs the RPMs down and will die. The PTO will turn with or without attachment but has the same effect. The idle is smooth and starts well. Any help or feedback is appreciated. Haven't seen this happen before.
What caught me was a buddy had a Deere 970 that acted the exact same way as yours, he backed it out of
the shed OK, put it in forward, big deep sounding "clunk" and that was it.
Forward, reverse and PTO would all stall the engine afterward, but the loader would still work.
It had a SyncShift Transmission however, which was pretty slick up until the "big clunk".
Basically the gear box "blew up" internally according to a mechanic he had look at it.
He bought it 3rd hand at a real cheap price and sold it "as is" for a little over half what he paid for
it, so he did pretty well all considered.

Hope it ain't a major trouble for yours.

Cajun
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What caught me was a buddy had a Deere 970 that acted the exact same way as yours, he backed it out of
the shed OK, put it in forward, big deep sounding "clunk" and that was it.
Forward, reverse and PTO would all stall the engine afterward, but the loader would still work.
It had a SyncShift Transmission however, which was pretty slick up until the "big clunk".
Basically the gear box "blew up" internally according to a mechanic he had look at it.
He bought it 3rd hand at a real cheap price and sold it "as is" for a little over half what he paid for
it, so he did pretty well all considered.

Hope it ain't a major trouble for yours.

Cajun
So what I've found out so far is that the hydraulic fluid is full. Since it was running well when I parked it I decided to see how far I can get it to move. It will go forward and reverse those few feet at a time so I made it move 15 feet forward and reverse. There isn't any grinding or other noises that I can find. I now suspect that a filter is clogged or collapsed. Will be replacing the filter first and will have to find out if I have a screen to clean. Anyone have insight into what might cause back pressure enough to stall the engine? Since it is affecting the PTO also I have ruled out a stuck brake.
 

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Auto part Vehicle Engine Fuel line Automotive fuel system

You might check your plastic manifold tube thing. Ive read it can cause weird problems if it gets cracks in it and starts sucking in air.
I replaced mine when I added a block heater. Only $17 at the dealer. Mine had some hairline cracks so I just went ahead and got a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
View attachment 45093
You might check your plastic manifold tube thing. Ive read it can cause weird problems if it gets cracks in it and starts sucking in air.
I replaced mine when I added a block heater. Only $17 at the dealer. Mine had some hairline cracks so I just went ahead and got a new one.
Is that on a diesel or gas engine? Mines a diesel.

Thanks.
 

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View attachment 45093
You might check your plastic manifold tube thing. Ive read it can cause weird problems if it gets cracks in it and starts sucking in air.
I replaced mine when I added a block heater. Only $17 at the dealer. Mine had some hairline cracks so I just went ahead and got a new one.
Is that on a diesel or gas engine? Mines a diesel.

Thanks.
4200's only came with diesel engines, and that plastic/rubber intake pipe was going to be my suggestion to check too. Replace your hydraulic filter and clean your suction screen. Since you are in humid Texas, is your hydraulic oil a clear pale yellow similar to pee, or milky in color. Pee is normal, milky indicates water in the oil.

Make sure you have the oil drained out before getting at the suction screen; otherwise you'll have a 6.7-gallon mess on your hands. Also, in your hot climate I'd use regular viscosity Hy-Gard oil instead of the low viscosity stuff.

One last simple and cheap suggestion...is your parking brake on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
4200's only came with diesel engines, and that plastic/rubber intake pipe was going to be my suggestion to check too. Replace your hydraulic filter and clean your suction screen. Since you are in humid Texas, is your hydraulic oil a clear pale yellow similar to pee, or milky in color. Pee is normal, milky indicates water in the oil.

Make sure you have the oil drained out before getting at the suction screen; otherwise you'll have a 6.7-gallon mess on your hands. Also, in your hot climate I'd use regular viscosity Hy-Gard oil instead of the low viscosity stuff.

One last simple and cheap suggestion...is your parking brake on?
Good to know. I'm new to the 4200. Traded for it. I'll check that pipe. The hydraulic oil is clear with yellowish tent. Parking brake isn't on but I was thinking it might be stuck. That is a great reminder to check. Thanks so much.
 

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I have a 4200 therefore I am curious to what you have found.

There is a suction screen in the front of the hydro behind the Y hose fitting/drain plug. When mine clogged it stopped moving completely therefore I'm thinking that may not be your problem but well worth checking, cleaning or changing anyway - also I don't think your loader would operate if screen was clogged.

PTO doing this makes me think it could be in the gearing mechanism. You can see inside the hydro very good by taking off the top cover. Not a hard job but is very time consuming to take off and replace. May be something that you may have to consider.
 

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Check the seat safety switch

We had a similar issue with our used tractor we had bought and it turned out to be a bypass on the seat switch that had come loose (previous owners rigged it to bypass so they could jump on and off the tractor without disengaging the PTO). If the seat switch is bad or unplugged without a bypass it will kill the tractor any time you try to move it or engage PTO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bullseye!!!!!

We had a similar issue with our used tractor we had bought and it turned out to be a bypass on the seat switch that had come loose (previous owners rigged it to bypass so they could jump on and off the tractor without disengaging the PTO). If the seat switch is bad or unplugged without a bypass it will kill the tractor any time you try to move it or engage PTO.
You nailed it. I had recently replaced the seat and added support springs for more comfort. The safety switch wasn't making full contact. Thank you. I had been checking all kinds of things. Temporarily bypassed the switch and everything is fully functioning again. Thank you so much for your post!
 
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