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I know we have a few Jeepers here on the forum so I was hopping to hoping that one of you could give me some advise on replacement hub bearings. Checking some auto parts places it looks like they have a left side, right side and a universal. Does anyone know the difference? Also I have the choice of Timkin, Moog and a few other store/ generic names, should I spend the money on the name brand? I used a Timkin in my 2002 TB a few years back and have been happy with it. If there is any other advise please let me know.
 

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Timken or SKF. Using anti-seize when reassembling will help tremendously if you have to replace it again in the future. Make sure to coat the bore of the knuckle where the bearing seats. This area has caused many a bearing to seize within the knuckle.

Have you looked into Rockauto.com? I love those guys. Awesome selection and great prices.
 

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While I've never had a liberty apart, I've had numerous TJs axles tore apart ranging from D30s to D60s. I would bet the liberty has unit bearings just like the stock TJ. I am assuming it has both nuts and is a 4wd. ;). If that's the case, loosen up the 3 bolts from behind knuckle and remove them. Then take a socket you don't mind getting scratched and have someone else turn steering slowly while you hold the socket between unit bearing and inner c. It will shove it right out.

I also vote for Timken. No idea why there would be difference between driver and passenger side.

Jim
 
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Abs sensors sometimes have different electrical plugs from left to right. Also they are not always located in the same spot.

Buy the one for whatever side you are working on. Buy the one with the best warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So Fedex was scheduled to deliver the part last Friday. I figured I would start to take things apart so when the Fedex guy showed up I could just put things back together. As I was doing the teardown on the right side I had an oh no moment. I realized that the jeep doesn't have ABS. I was already 2-3 hours in and figured that I would take it out and maybe I could get one of the local auto parts stores to get me the right one over the weekend.

Once I got the hub bearing out I realized it was not bad. As I spun it in my hand it was smooth as glass. With all of the hills around here sometimes the sound bounces off the hill side and it is hard to tell which side the vehicle it is coming from. So I wondered if it was the left side. After taking the left side apart I found that it was still good as well.

At this point I was going to fix something. I decided to take a look at the brakes on the back. When I went to remove the right rear the goofs that put tires on in in Oct. cross threaded one of the lug nuts. It took me an hour or so to break it so I could get the wheel off. After I got the wheel off the rear disk brakes looked good, with plenty of pad. But like I said I was bound and determined to fix something. I pulled the caliper and the pads to get the rotor off and that is when I found the squeak. One shoe had no friction material and the other shoe's friction material fell off when I took the rotor off.

IMG_0661.jpg IMG_0662.JPG

Now my wife will not ever use a parking brake. She thinks it is silly that I set mine every time I get out of my truck. Part of the reason why I set mine is I owned a manual before my current truck so it was just habit. It also keeps them from seizing and not to mention it saves a lot of wear and tear on the parking paw inside the trans. I would guess that the same goof that cross threaded the lug nut is also the one that set the parking brake, which my wife has now spent 4 months driving with it on. I think the first lesson I ever learned while working at the garage was never use the parking brake on a customer's car.

After all was said and done it ended up being a nice way to tell my wife, "I told you so," with out having to say it.

I just had to do:
  • 2 rotors
  • 2 sets of pads
  • 2 sets of shoes
  • 1 parking brake hardware pack
  • Clean up and lube the parking brake mechanism
  • 1 wheel stud and lug nut.
 

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Wow....

Don't be fooled by spinning a modern front unitized hub by hand with no load on it. Sometimes they could feel good but loaded will growl and grind. I've seen this several times myself.

Thanks for posting the follow-up. :hi:
 

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Wow....

Don't be fooled by spinning a modern front unitized hub by hand with no load on it. Sometimes they could feel good but loaded will growl and grind. I've seen this several times myself.

Thanks for posting the follow-up. :hi:
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on both of them. The Jeep has 130k on it so I would not be surprised if it will need them soon.
 

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I replaced both front unit bearings on my 1999 Suburban. Still have noise. I now think it's the tires worn to a point they are now making noise.
The noise is only at a certain mph.
 

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A good way to see if a hub is bad and what I do on my Jeeps, jack the front end off the ground, with the tires still on and the lug nuts tight, grab the tire at the top and bottom, give it a wiggle and see if there is any play. My TJ needs a set and I'm gonna do them on the KJ too.

jeeper ' hub city in my shop' 4life
 
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