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Last Saturday my daughter who is in college 100 miles away called. She said the truck was making a grinding noise like it was dragging something down the road beneath her feet. She also said the ABS light was coming on and going off. She said it was not making the noise all the time only intermittently. She said she looked under the truck and nothing was dragging.

I asked if any noise when just the engine running, not moving. To rule out serpentine idlers or alternator. No.
So I asked it made the noise when turning or going straight. She said not that she could tell.

Because of the ABS light, I am thinking unit bearing/hub.

I ask when she plans to come home next. She says Thanksgiving. OK, LMK if it gets worse.

Monday morning she calls and says the noise is all the time now and ABS light is staying on. She's worried. I tell her she needs to bring it home. She says she has to work until 6PM and then come home, should be there by 8PM

7:30 she calls and says she is 20 miles from home and it's real bad now, that it caught fire, but she got it out.

I call a buddy and we are off to the farm for the trailer, chains, chain come-a-long and chain binders. When we get there the left front wheel is leaning. There is grease all over everything behind the wheel. The outer CV joint boot is torn.

By 10PM we have it home and unloaded and in the pole barn.

Tuesday is opening day firearms deer season. No truck work until Wednesday.

Wednesday I take it apart enough to determine what parts are needed. Unit bearing/hub assembly, CV axle assembly (I am not sure if I can just replace the lost grease and put on a new boot, so I opt for a complete axle assembly). Caliper bracket, the outer part is bent. the rotor has worn both ends of it. One caliper pin is seized and bent. The spring clips that hold the pads are bent and show heat damage. I order parts and complete disassembly and clean usable parts. I also ordered the right side unit bearing hub assembly, since as far as I know it has the same miles as the left side. The parts are coming from 3 different warehouses. Overnight shipping is $160, 2-3 day is $30. regular 7-14 day is $25. I pick 2-3 day shipping.

Thursday, both unit bearing/hub assembles arrive. I get them installed.

Friday everything else arrives and I get it all installed. I checked the "oil life" monitor for the engine and it's showing 25%. So I also change the oil and filter, better now with it 65° than later at 15° :laugh::laugh:

With the bearing "gone" the CV axle wore away part of the head of one of the three attaching bolts for bearing /hub. I used a cutoff grinder to cut through the bearing /hub and bolt until I got it out. Later I remembered I have "rounded off bolt removing sockets" that might have worked. :banghead: I went to the local U-Pull Salvage yard to see if I could find a usable one. They said they had closed down the U-Pull a couple of months ago and no longer allowed customers to enter the yard. So I went to the local dealer. That bolt was over $9 :nunu:

Unit bearing/hub $128 x 2
CV axle assembly $80
Caliper bracket $20
Caliper pin kit $7
Brake hardware kit $9
Special bolt $9

I am guessing a shop would have charged $1200-$ 1500 No idea what the tow bill would have been if I could not trailer it myself

Pictures of the truck and carnage. Sorry no picture of the leaning wheel, it was too dark.
 

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Quite an in depth repair - one that I certainly couldn't do myself.

This is the type of thing I get to look forward to in the future being I am planning to keep my truck forever....

Glad you posted a pic of the truck - had no idea what you were working on until then.
 

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Glad you were able to fix it without too much trouble. Shame it was such a distance for her to drive it home, if you'd been able to get to it right when it first started making noise it probably wouldn't have damaged as much.

A 20 mile tow cost me $180 a couple of years ago for my red truck. :flag_of_truce:
 

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welcome to my world....:laugh: this type of thing is always happening on the Rhino. I've don the bearings so many times I could do it in my sleep.
 
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Z5:

Interesting read of your repair. Although it cost a lot for parts, you saved a bundle of money doing the repair yourself. I was surprised to see the cost of the CV joint axle. I would have thought it would be much more.

Good job.:thumbup1gif:
 
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Dad to the rescue. Good work! :good2:
 

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zebra five -my chevy is 06, so i've already done both sides. not the cv-joint's, as when i started to hear the bad noise, i took it in right away. back then:think: 09-somewhere past that, cause my factory warrenty had run out, i had my other go tto garage do it, it was $300 per wheel for that stupid hub, with the abs hickee in it.

now i probably jinxed myself, as that's been how many yrs-now:banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Glad you were able to fix it without too much trouble. Shame it was such a distance for her to drive it home, if you'd been able to get to it right when it first started making noise it probably wouldn't have damaged as much.

A 20 mile tow cost me $180 a couple of years ago for my red truck. :flag_of_truce:
I agree hard to diagnious by phone. I was surprised they went from an intermittent noise to total failure so soon. My wife's S10 Blazer was making the "noise" and I noticed it when we went somewhere and asked about it. She said it had been going it for a while and had forgotten to tell me about it.

Z5:

Interesting read of your repair. Although it cost a lot for parts, you saved a bundle of money doing the repair yourself. I was surprised to see the cost of the CV joint axle. I would have thought it would be much more.





Good job.:thumbup1gif:
The CV axle shaft was aftermarket. I had several to choose from. I picked one with a "lifetime" warranty and a "upgrade premium" outer boot. A GM CV axle was almost $300.

The CV axle can be changed without pulling the unit bearing/hub assembly. I would rather do it than the unit bearing/hub assembly.

I am still thinking I should buy a boot for the removed CV axle and have a spare on hand. Left and right are both the same. Thank you for that GM
 

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Other repairs to the 2007 Silverado

While waiting for parts, I decided to see if I could get the spare tire hoist lock out. I thought the original owner did not give me a key to since the ignition key would not work. It's just a lock cylinder that inserts in the plastic tube that you insert the factory tools in to operate the spare tire hoist.

An online search told me where to drill the plastic tube to access the lock's latch, which is spring loaded. I drilled the hole and the latch would not press up. I had to hammer it up, it was all corroded. PD Blaster finally freed it up. Then I put black silicone in the hole I drilled.

Since I had the lock out. May as well check the hoist. Thanks for the suggestion/motivation Coaltrain! :good2: Well the tire would only come down a couple of inches. The cable looked fine, not rusty at all and the hoist was smooth. More online searching and I found the hoist has a secondary lock. If the cable were to break it catches the tire so it will not drop on the road. I soaked with PB Blaster.

I did not get back to the secondary lock until Saturday. It was still frozen in the locked position. I was able to snake a socket on an extension through the spare tire and remove the bolt that holds the hoist on. This gave me access to the top of the spare and the hoist. I got it freed and cleaned up and reinstalled. Now the spare raises and lowers as it should. I think from now on, every other oil change I will check the spare tire hoist. Again, my thanks to Coaltrain.

Since the truck is the top of the line LTZ it also has a tailgate lock. The ignition key did not work in it either. I assumed the ignition had been changed and I was not given the old keys. Since the spare tire hoist lock was a victim of corrosion. Maybe the tailgate lock suffered the same fate. I took it apart and sprayed it with PB Blaster. After several hours of soaking with PB Blaster it also freed up. I cleaned and lubed it and it now works as it should. :yahoo:

So three unexpected jobs taken care of. I am so glad to have the spare tire available if needed. I would rather work on it in a clean garage with lights and tools than in the dark, dirt and cold along some lonely road with a flat tire. :good2:
 

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Awesome!

All it takes is once in a lifetime being stranded with something like those spare tires not coming down.

It reminds me of when I was teaching new hires at PennDot every fall on plow trucks. One part that was not on the ciriculum was installing tire chains. I would take a truck into the heated shop to go over stuff if we had a rainy/cold day - would show them how to do it and made each of them do it for me.

A lot of grumbling and "I know how to put chains on" talk. Well sometime your first winter out, you will be holding a flashlight in your mouth in the dark, tempted to lay in 6" of wet snow or sleet, with salty cold brine dripping off the truck bed down the back of your neck fighting with these chains while your road is getting so bad people are wrecking on it.

A few times over the years when I would run into someone from my class they would thank me for that.
 

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Good information there Zebrafive.?

I helped a friend this spring with his Chevy 3500 when his hub went out. Course he didn't listen to me when I told him not to drive it until we fixed the hub. So he drove it and the tire/wheel came off and rolled across two lanes of interstate. Thank god it didn't hit anything.
 

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Good information there Zebrafive.?

I helped a friend this spring with his Chevy 3500 when his hub went out. Course he didn't listen to me when I told him not to drive it until we fixed the hub. So he drove it and the tire/wheel came off and rolled across two lanes of interstate. Thank god it didn't hit anything.
The CV axle and caliper bracket held the front wheel/tire on. I think if it were two wheel drive the wheel/tire would have come off. :flag_of_truce:
 

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Glad you were able to fix it without too much trouble. Shame it was such a distance for her to drive it home, if you'd been able to get to it right when it first started making noise it probably wouldn't have damaged as much.

A 20 mile tow cost me $180 a couple of years ago for my red truck. :flag_of_truce:
Then I saved $180, minus two hours of my time and 3 gallons of gas :good2:

zebra five -my chevy is 06, so i've already done both sides. not the cv-joint's, as when i started to hear the bad noise, i took it in right away. back then:think: 09-somewhere past that, cause my factory warrenty had run out, i had my other go tto garage do it, it was $300 per wheel for that stupid hub, with the abs hickee in it.

now i probably jinxed myself, as that's been how many yrs-now:banghead:
My friend's daughter has a 2004 GM Sierra. Her's lost one at 120K miles, she was quoted $1000 to do both sides, so my friend did it for her. This was last year, 2015
 

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Zebrafive glad it all worked out. Especially not having the cost of garage repair.:good2:

There is one thing that puzzles me though. Being that those parts were so ridiculously worn out. I'm surprised you didn't get the tell tell of something going wrong. Normally the first sign of something being amiss with the front hub components is the intermittent ABS coming on at very slow (5mph to a stop) speeds. Usually (from my own experiences) this will happen well before any type of catastrophic failure.
 

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Zebrafive glad it all worked out. Especially not having the cost of garage repair.:good2:

There is one thing that puzzles me though. Being that those parts were so ridiculously worn out. I'm surprised you didn't get the tell tell of something going wrong. Normally the first sign of something being amiss with the front hub components is the intermittent ABS coming on at very slow (5mph to a stop) speeds. Usually (from my own experiences) this will happen well before any type of catastrophic failure.
I test drove the truck when we bought it. It was smooth to well over the speed limit. It did not pull or vibrate, even at high speeds. No stored codes or lights on. Tires were about 50% worn, with even wear.


My daughter put the next 4,000 miles on it. I am guessing she missed any early warnings. I too, was surprised it did not make it home from her first report of something wrong two days earlier.
So there may have been signs that she was not experienced enough to recognize :dunno: I also suspect the radio was turned way up too covering any early grinding noise.
 

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In PA we have mandatory annual vehicle inspection. My Ram 2500 comes due the end of November. Last year my mechanic/friend took me aside when I picked my truck up at the dealership and told me that I had a very loose front wheel bearing that needed replaced. He offered me the tools needed for pulling it. I took the truck home, jacked it up to see what he was talking about. It didn't seem that bad with the wheel bolted on...hunting season came, then snow and cold and I never got around to changing the bearing until spring came. I drove the truck less than 500 miles during that time. With the wheel on it seemed the same as the last time I checked. Once I pulled the wheel I was shocked at how loose it really was...wondered how it hadn't fallen apart. I had no abs issues with the bad bearing.
 

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In PA we have mandatory annual vehicle inspection. My Ram 2500 comes due the end of November. Last year my mechanic/friend took me aside when I picked my truck up at the dealership and told me that I had a very loose front wheel bearing that needed replaced. He offered me the tools needed for pulling it. I took the truck home, jacked it up to see what he was talking about. It didn't seem that bad with the wheel bolted on...hunting season came, then snow and cold and I never got around to changing the bearing until spring came. I drove the truck less than 500 miles during that time. With the wheel on it seemed the same as the last time I checked. Once I pulled the wheel I was shocked at how loose it really was...wondered how it hadn't fallen apart. I had no abs issues with the bad bearing.

I would think with the wheel on, it would give you leverage and weight to magnify any looseness of the bearings. Did you hear any noise?
I knew when my daughter said "grinding noise" it was too late. Her being 100 miles away makes it hard to fix thing immediately :banghead:
 

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I would think with the wheel on, it would give you leverage and weight to magnify any looseness of the bearings. Did you hear any noise?
I knew when my daughter said "grinding noise" it was too late. Her being 100 miles away makes it hard to fix thing immediately :banghead:
That was what surprised me too...had just a slight bit of wiggle with the wheel mounted, which is what made me question the seriousness. I believe that the caliper/rotor must have been what was fooling me because once the brakes were removed the degree of bearing looseness shocked me. There was no noise...no more vibration than normal...no abs faults.

I've had wheel bearing issues before. An older Dodge 1/2 ton 4wd had a speed related noise...old style serviceable tapered bearings. I found a rough spot on the outer race which I was able to polish up in a lathe at work...never did replace anything on it.
I had an W250 that a front bearing failed on once while I had my snow plow mounted...10 pm on my way home from a cabinet making class on a cold winter night. No noises or indications with that one either. It came apart and me a bit of a ride til I got the truck stopped.
 
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