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I purchased a jd110 tlb new in 2008. I've put only 625 hours on it. Haven't had any problems with it until a few weeks ago. It started stopping while I was using it and a light would flash. Sometimes I would have to turn it off before the fault would clear. I hauled it back to the dealer I purchased it from. They called me in a few days and said they needed to replace the forward pedal sensor, the reverse pedal sensor and the ground speed sensor. They would order them, parts and labor would be around $1000.00 I told them they should know what needed to be changed so go ahead. I get another call from them that they can't get it to calibrate and my have to split the tractor to replace forward / reverse coils. The next day they call and said it was ready. I go to pick it up and drove it around less than 3 minutes a code started flashing and it wouldn't go forward or reverse. I kinda got upset at the bill and it not being fixed. I ended up paying for the sensors but not the labor because it wasn't fixed. I hauled it home.

I ordered a technical manual, I've went through all sensors, checked coils, wires etc.......

In calibration mode now. All sensors calibrate ...... Forward pedal ...... Reverse pedal ...... Creep lever ...... engine speed fast idle ..... "This is where I'm at" forward threshold coil ... no movement to wheel..... what am I missing, I think something is missing from the calibration steps.


Thanks for any help!!
 

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I purchased a jd110 tlb new in 2008. I've put only 625 hours on it. Haven't had any problems with it until a few weeks ago. It started stopping while I was using it and a light would flash. Sometimes I would have to turn it off before the fault would clear. I hauled it back to the dealer I purchased it from. They called me in a few days and said they needed to replace the forward pedal sensor, the reverse pedal sensor and the ground speed sensor. They would order them, parts and labor would be around $1000.00 I told them they should know what needed to be changed so go ahead. I get another call from them that they can't get it to calibrate and my have to split the tractor to replace forward / reverse coils. The next day they call and said it was ready. I go to pick it up and drove it around less than 3 minutes a code started flashing and it wouldn't go forward or reverse. I kinda got upset at the bill and it not being fixed. I ended up paying for the sensors but not the labor because it wasn't fixed. I hauled it home.

I ordered a technical manual, I've went through all sensors, checked coils, wires etc.......

In calibration mode now. All sensors calibrate ...... Forward pedal ...... Reverse pedal ...... Creep lever ...... engine speed fast idle ..... "This is where I'm at" forward threshold coil ... no movement to wheel..... what am I missing, I think something is missing from the calibration steps.


Thanks for any help!!
What error codes was it flashing? I would have been very suspicious of any mechanic wanting to replace that many components at one time. Their diagnostics couldn’t have been following any kind of logical process.
What was the original code?
If there was multiple codes for multiple sensors, I would look closely at power and ground connections to the transmission control unit.
 

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You are correct, I was very suspicious, that's why I brought it home.

I'm not sure what the first codes were. I didn't have a technical manual then.

When I got it home I was able to unload and park it. I tried moving it into the shop a few days latter it wouldn't go in reverse but would drive forward. They told me the next thing to change was the forward / reverse coils. I started there. You can get them out without splitting the tractor. The reason I pulled them was they checked 4 ohms. That is low from what the technical manual states. After I pulled them out they are stamped 3.7 ohms. Nothing wrong there! By the way I don't have a flywheel sensor. I guess 2008 models don't have that. Not sure where engine speed comes from.

I thought after reinstalling them and going through setting up throttle sensor and forward / reverse pedal sensors I needed to recalibrate so I did move the fuse to calibrate mode. After many failed attempts to calibrate I found the blue and purple wires from the controller to forward and reverse coils not reading correct. I've got that fixed.

Going through calibration, when I get to . . - - put trans in "A" step on fwd pedal nothing happens. Wheel want move.
 

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Are you sure you don’t have whats called the “MFWD” sensor? I thought all eHydro machines had to have them?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Are you sure you don’t have whats called the “MFWD” sensor? I thought all eHydro machines had to have them?
Yes I do have a MFWD sensor and it was replaced. That sensor is located on transaxle.

I'm missing something in the calibration sequence or the controller is bad.

I'm following the calibration sequence to the "T" and it want move the wheels. I question my technical manual because it doesn't mention anything about not having a flywheel sensor and my 110 doesn't have one.


I get to the point . . - - raise engine to fast idle, put trans in "A", step on fwd pedal.
Status light . . - - wheel should move in 30 seconds ............. it doesn't
 

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Going through calibration, when I get to . . - - put trans in "A" step on fwd pedal nothing happens. Wheel want move.
I would probably check voltage at the pedal pots and make sure your getting the proper voltage range through the pedal travel. You could go right to the TCU and verify it there also.
It’s too bad that the 110 doesn’t have a display like the 3 and 4 series so you can read those values right from the display.

Edit...ok I see that the pedals calibrated, so they are probably working....but I would still check with a meter. You could series in a meter with the coils and see is the TCU is supplying current.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would probably check voltage at the pedal pots and make sure your getting the proper voltage range through the pedal travel. You could go right to the TCU and verify it there also.
It’s too bad that the 110 doesn’t have a display like the 3 and 4 series so you can read those values right from the display.

Edit...ok I see that the pedals calibrated, so they are probably working....but I would still check with a meter. You could series in a meter with the coils and see is the TCU is supplying current.
I'll try this next.... if no current is the $900 controller bad?
 

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Check all your connections before replacing the controller. This includes at the battery, chassis ground, fuses and / or circuit breakers and controller connections. Something as simple as some high resistance in a power or ground circuit will cause the issues you've mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would probably check voltage at the pedal pots and make sure your getting the proper voltage range through the pedal travel. You could go right to the TCU and verify it there also.
It’s too bad that the 110 doesn’t have a display like the 3 and 4 series so you can read those values right from the display.

Edit...ok I see that the pedals calibrated, so they are probably working....but I would still check with a meter. You could series in a meter with the coils and see is the TCU is supplying current.
I checked the voltage going to controller, ground, went through calibration with meter in series "amps" with forward blue wire ......nothing! Went through calibration with meter connected to blue wire and battery ground ...... nothing! This is crazy,

Oh, I jumped 12 volts to fwd / rev coils one at a time and wheels move fwd and rev just want do it during calibration!!!
 

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I checked the voltage going to controller, ground, went through calibration with meter in series "amps" with forward blue wire ......nothing! Went through calibration with meter connected to blue wire and battery ground ...... nothing! This is crazy,

Oh, I jumped 12 volts to fwd / rev coils one at a time and wheels move fwd and rev just want do it during calibration!!!
Well your valves are good at least:thumbup1gif:
You are quickly converging on the TCU.
But, like superglidesport said...check everything that supports the TCU operation. That is definitely not a component that I would replace without being absolutely sure:read
it would be handy to get a JD tech out with his computer, but you run the show (because they failed before).

Just thinking out loud...isn’t there an empty fuse slot on the 110’s that is you put a fuse in, it will put the machine in some screwy mode? Just check to make sure there are fuses where they belong.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well your valves are good at least:thumbup1gif:
You are quickly converging on the TCU.
But, like superglidesport said...check everything that supports the TCU operation. That is definitely not a component that I would replace without being absolutely sure:read
it would be handy to get a JD tech out with his computer, but you run the show (because they failed before).

Just thinking out loud...isn’t there an empty fuse slot on the 110’s that is you put a fuse in, it will put the machine in some screwy mode? Just check to make sure there are fuses where they belong.
Yes know about fuse slot 12, that's what I did because all sensors were replaced and I removed coils to check them. Put everything back together put it in calibration mode and that's where I'm at trying to get it to calibrate.

I get to . . - - forward coil threshold and no output from controller.
 

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Update..

Found a guy on another forum that was at the same place I'm at with mine. Texted him and he said he had a faulty wire going to inch lever and john deere dealer had to reprogram controller.

I've checked every wire going to hst controller for voltage, ground, feedback from pot and everything is good.

One thing I wanted to check is what makes the neutral relay "K9" function. I have 12 volts from the hst controller to K9, not sure if it's a problem or not. Don't see a neutral switch anywhere.
 

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Still not getting anywhere......

I was correct in that there is no engine speed sensor, it uses the alternator signal for engine speed.

I drove it in the shop, I've put 12 volts to the coils and it turns the wheels.

I've removed the coils for fwd / rev and they read 4 ohms, there's 3.7 ohms stamped on the side of the coils. The manual says they should read 6 to 7 ohms. Not sure about this. Any advice?
 

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Thanks for the update.
 

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Thanks for the update.
Yes-thanks! Far too many come here with issues and after a post or two disappear leaving us with no closure or idea if anything we suggested helped or what the issue actually was...
 
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