[btb601]

I had them do the stuff the first year and then I took over. I tried and tried to get the zert using the little hole to grease her up. I took off floor off and to gain access to this u joints. Looks like both u joints were clogged and I believe I got the one in the rear going, but not sure. The one up front, well that's a different story. Looking now for one of the tools you unclog them with using ATF or like fluid. Tractor Supply Center has on in stock I can pick up today, IPA Grease Joint Rejuvenator Pro Model, 7862H for $50.
I did use a little heat from a heat gun set at 500° and warmed up the ujoint for about 1 1/2 minutes at mos and I seen a little black grease come out one bearing cap. I also was checking temps with a cheap lazer temp taker and it said the ujoint got to130ish° So I stopped and tried to put some fresh grease in and I believe some did, but very little. I turn the shaft over and heated the other side up but had no more luck and was a tad nervous heating up the ujoint as I am NOT a mechanic, I'm a professonal home owner. (Can anyone guess where I got the phrase??)

Tractor only has 280 hours on it and the only thing that has any wear on it and beat up is the mow deck form my nasty sloped rocky yard.

I'm question are:
1- heat is ok and how much heat? (just using a Wagner heat gun)
2 - Unclogger tool worth getting and or do I need a different brand?
3 - Link on how to take off shaft to replace u joints? not that I think it feels like it needs it, just to much to lose if it does fail

Thanks fellows, Happy Memorial day

 

[Smindustries]

Why not replace the fitting with a new one? That seems like the the cheapest and easiest solution.

I've never messed with a tool like that. My grease gun is a Milwaukee M18 electric that has a mode to clear a clogged fitting, but I've never used it.

This is probably the best possible recommendation I can make with respect to grease fittings, especially if they're reluctant to take any grease:

Amazon.com: LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10,000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool. : Automotive

Buy LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10,000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.: Grease Guns - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[myrna]

For $50 you could get a couple hundred new grease zert fittings, Screw one out, screw a new one in, that's it.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

If the grease is hardened in the joint changing the zerk won't help.

 

[JohnDeereJoey]

If the grease is hardened in the joint changing the zerk won't help.

Very true.

I LOVE the LockNLube grease gun coupler. Best couplers I have ever used.

I also use the LockNLube Grease Buster with the short flex hose and the piston for connecting to an air hammer. So far I used it three times and it worked well. I use the air hammer not for brute strength, but rather to get many strikes, easily.

 

[Ritz]

If the grease is hardened in the joint changing the zerk won't help.

If I had a universal joint that was THAT hosed, I'd probably just change the joint and be done with it. However, I have also used one of these before and it worked:

Amazon.com

It basically allows you to force low-viscosity oil or even solvent through the fitting until the hairball is cleared and then you fill 'er up with grease. Here's a video showing how it works:

But again, if I thought the joint had been "dry" for a while I'd personally just replace it.

Good luck!

 

[stevenk]

I have been a mechanic for 28 years, I have one of the tools to clear clogged fittings. MAYBE 25% of the time it works. Most of the time the zerk fitting is at fault and needs replacement. I think the spring that holds the check ball gets screwed up or something. Anyway you can pound all the live long day without clearing it, after changing the fitting everything works perfect.

 

[Ritz]

I have been a mechanic for 28 years, I have one of the tools to clear clogged fittings. MAYBE 25% of the time it works. Most of the time the zerk fitting is at fault and needs replacement. I think the spring that holds the check ball gets screwed up or something. Anyway you can pound all the live long day without clearing it, after changing the fitting everything works perfect.

I would agree that sometimes the fitting is broken, the check ball seized, etc. However, once the goo inside the bearings behind the fitting starts to harden, even if you change the fitting, you still will not be able to force grease past the blockage. This tool is just part of the "toolbox" and isn't the ultimate savior. And as I said above, there's always the option of just replacing the u-joint as well if none of the other strategies works.

Best,

 

[KeyboardJungle]

when greasing that fitting, I have often wondered - how difficult would it be to replace? It looks like you would have to dismantle half the tractor. has anybody ever replaced it that can comment?

 

[btb601]

I went and bought my zerk unclogger at TSC yesterday evening. Did a quick read and got busy. I used some plumbing tape (3 wraps) to seal the threads on the tool and it worked great yesterday. My suggestion is to clean it up and re-tape it the next day. l just got done doing the second treatment and the Kroil was going EVERYWHERE. I did hit the zerks with grease before hand to see if the first round did anything, I'd say about 80-90% unblocked as I now had very loose black grease bubbling out. I'm in no hurry so I might give it another hit tomorrow, depends on the out some from today.

For the suggestions of replacing the zerks, can you do that with everything still connected?? I don't see how, to tight. And as for taking the shaft out, I have no idea on how and looks like to much trouble for me maybe.

In the middle of May, I decided to do a quick mow before it rained and got be about one half lap in the backyard, I had a rock chip apparently get under the idler sheave and did that in about 5 seconds. I had to cut the belt to get it apart. I had already planned to do my yearly PMs on the tractor and was set to go. First real oops except for a tail light, now remounted inside the ROPS.

 

[arlen]

I had them do the stuff the first year and then I took over. I tried and tried to get the zert using the little hole to grease her up. I took off floor off and to gain access to this u joints. Looks like both u joints were clogged and I believe I got the one in the rear going, but not sure. The one up front, well that's a different story. Looking now for one of the tools you unclog them with using ATF or like fluid. Tractor Supply Center has on in stock I can pick up today, IPA Grease Joint Rejuvenator Pro Model, 7862H for $50.
I did use a little heat from a heat gun set at 500° and warmed up the ujoint for about 1 1/2 minutes at mos and I seen a little black grease come out one bearing cap. I also was checking temps with a cheap lazer temp taker and it said the ujoint got to130ish° So I stopped and tried to put some fresh grease in and I believe some did, but very little. I turn the shaft over and heated the other side up but had no more luck and was a tad nervous heating up the ujoint as I am NOT a mechanic, I'm a professonal home owner. (Can anyone guess where I got the phrase??)

Tractor only has 280 hours on it and the only thing that has any wear on it and beat up is the mow deck form my nasty sloped rocky yard.

I'm question are:
1- heat is ok and how much heat? (just using a Wagner heat gun)
2 - Unclogger tool worth getting and or do I need a different brand?
3 - Link on how to take off shaft to replace u joints? not that I think it feels like it needs it, just to much to lose if it does fail

Thanks fellows, Happy Memorial day

As far as question #2, you should be able to heat it up to 300-350 deg without any issues.