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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I signed a contract on a new pole barn yesterday and after wise counsel decided to start a thread. The contract is for a 24' x 100' pole barn. It will have a 24' x 60' finished space with concrete floor and a 24' x 40' open carport space with a gravel base.

Exterior Plans:
4 - 10'x8' garage doors
1 - 9 lite entry door on the gable end
1 - 36"x48" window on the gable end
Metal roof and siding
24" overhang in front
12" overhang on sides and back
6-mil vapor barrier
Double bubble insulation on under side of roof
3 - exterior flood lights
1 - motion sensor flood light for carport
Interior Plans:
(Finishing will take place as my wallet recovers)
1 - ReelCraft 5450 OLP Hose Reel Item # 5450 OLP, Low Pressure Air / Water Hose Reel On Reelcraft Industries, Inc.
1 - ReelCraft L 4035 162 2 Light Reel Item # L 4035 162 2, Heavy Duty Light Cord Reel On Reelcraft Industries, Inc.
1 - ReelCraft L 4035 163 3 Electrical Reel Item # L 4035 163 3, Heavy Duty Power Cord Reel On Reelcraft Industries, Inc.
8 - 4' Shop lights in the enclosed section
8 - 4' Shop lights in the carport section
Drywall or Metal interior walls/ceiling???
Pallet racking for work benches and overhead storage with a sheet metal top for the work bench surface.
Compressor will be in the carport section with black mal piping ran inside for air hose hook ups.
2 - ceiling fans for workshop area
painted concrete floor?
Insulation for walls?

Any and all recommendation are welcomed and appreciated!!
 

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Well it's about time somebody on here started a building project this year.:thumbup1gif:
Any layout drawings yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it's about time somebody on here started a building project this year.:thumbup1gif:
Any layout drawings yet?
Working on the layout drawings now. I just got confirmation on the size. It will be a 24' x 100' pole barn. 24' x 60' enclosed and 24' x 40' carport.
 

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If you need more property I have some! Just Sayin!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Lord no!! I have enough as is.
okay so I am having upload issues. I have tried 4 times now to upload a layout and I am getting no where. I find the png file and click on upload and it does zip! Any thoughts?:banghead:
 

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Lord no!! I have enough as is.
:lol: Remember this, Your land, property and buildings will seem to grow larger as you get older.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:lol: Remember this, Your land, property and buildings will seem to grow larger as you get older.
Well, at 31, Lord willing I have a ways to go! :drinks:
 

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:lol: Remember this, Your land, property and buildings will seem to grow larger as you get older.
Actually my five acres has gotten much smaller since I got my 1026. Now if I ever get old I might see what you are suggesting.

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Where's your 2 post lift at in the plans?:unknown:

IMHO, stay away from painting your concrete floor if you plan on doing any work in there. Mine is painted with an epoxy and I hate it. Scratches way too easy, welding puts puck-marks in it, and it absorbs light if you choose a dumb color like the previous owner to my place did. It is a bit easier on cleanup side, but I wouldn't paint the floor unless it was just a display/storage room.
 

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Regarding metal or drywall interior. Depends on what you plan to do but consider plywood.

Keep in mind depending on your weather conditions the compressor in car port might be great for noise but with the right temp and humidity conditions it might pump as much water as air!


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Discussion Starter #11
Regarding metal or drywall interior. Depends on what you plan to do but consider plywood.

Keep in mind depending on your weather conditions the compressor in car port might be great for noise but with the right temp and humidity conditions it might pump as much water as air!


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I saw another post about using plywood. It was painted white and looked great. I think it was on WA but not sure. So far we have not had any issues with our compressors around here. My FIL has one at his shed and we use one at our mechanic shop, no problems so far. Good thought though!
 

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I saw another post about using plywood. It was painted white and looked great. I think it was on WA but not sure. So far we have not had any issues with our compressors around here. My FIL has one at his shed and we use one at our mechanic shop, no problems so far. Good thought though!
If the shop isn't air conditioned, the humidity won't matter much to the compressor anyway, as it'll be just as humid inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Where's your 2 post lift at in the plans?:unknown:

IMHO, stay away from painting your concrete floor if you plan on doing any work in there. Mine is painted with an epoxy and I hate it. Scratches way too easy, welding puts puck-marks in it, and it absorbs light if you choose a dumb color like the previous owner to my place did. It is a bit easier on cleanup side, but I wouldn't paint the floor unless it was just a display/storage room.
I haven't decided on a lift. My FIL has two 2 post lifts and one 4 post lift with movable rails for different width axels. That is a heavy price tag so it will come down the road. If I need one, I can always use his, he lives 3 houses down. I am more leaning towards doing an epoxy speckle floor in the MOPAR bay and nothing in the workshop as you are suggesting for those reasons. My FIL's display garage has the speckle floor and it really looks great. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If the shop isn't air conditioned, the humidity won't matter much to the compressor anyway, as it'll be just as humid inside.
The shop will eventually get AC but not anytime soon. A couple of good ol' fans will do the trick for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
pole barn layout.jpg ...about stinking time. I was starting to give up on trying to upload the layout! :yahoo:

I have already made a change on the workshop layout. The pallet rack workbenches will be 9' from partition wall, 4' open section on bottom, another 9' section to wall. Then a single 12' section from the pallet rack on back of wall to wherever it comes to towards entry door. The pallet rack benches will be 36" deep.
 

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Pictures? How is the project progressing? Did you put any anchors in the floor for things like tire changers? :confused:
 

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Go with sawcut control joints on the concrete floors instead of tooled control joints. Anything with casters on them will thank you.

I'd go with copper for the air piping. Much easier to install and less chance of leakage.
 

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Concrete Floors

Ditto to the above comments! I used a no-air mixed concrete with a trowel / whirly-bird, burnt down surface. They power-troweled it about six times in the 2-3 hours after the pour. It's as smooth as smooth can be! Followed up with the saw-cut control joints. I rolled Medcure sealer after about a week, and then a sealer (that the name escapes me) about a month out. It's smooth but doesn't seem slippery. I love it! Good luck! Nice building. ~Scotty
 

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Ditto to the above comments! I used a no-air mixed concrete with a trowel / whirly-bird, burnt down surface. They power-troweled it about six times in the 2-3 hours after the pour. It's as smooth as smooth can be! Followed up with the saw-cut control joints. I rolled Medcure sealer after about a week, and then a sealer (that the name escapes me) about a month out. It's smooth but doesn't seem slippery. I love it! Good luck! Nice building. ~Scotty
The guys spent more time finishing our garage floor then they did pouring it and doing the rough finish.
The wait game between the power troweling is the big winner on a floor. The final power troweling finish took forever.
As you said, smooth as heck but not that slippery. I think I could drop a 1/4" ball bearing on the floor near the back of the building and it would roll right out the front door.
 

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I think I could drop a 1/4" ball bearing on the floor
Don't do that Keith..............you'll get another chip! :tongue::lol:
 
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