Green Tractor Talk banner
61 - 74 of 74 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,760 Posts
I just used a plastic zip tie on the sensing switch under the seat. Took about 10 minutes and there is a video on YouTube just search RIO switch and 1025r. This worked great just when you are putting panel under seat back on make sure the diff lock lever is sticking out
 
  • Like
Reactions: afulton25

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,158 Posts
I just got my new 1025. Not sure what actual year it is. It does have the gas struts on the hood, so it is at least a 2015. It only had .2 hrs on the meter at delivery, so it is "new". I took off the right side cover and cannot see any way to get to the PTO switch to disable the RIO. Nothing visible but black plastic covers.

I read a thread on this site, that listed a JD "anti-stall switch" that installs where the switch blank is on the lower left side of the dash. I looked behind there and there is a 6 or 8 plug connector with only 2 wires in it (red and light blue). Any idea what these wires/connector are for? It would be WAY too easy f all one had to do is buy and install the "anti-stall" switch and connect this connector.....?

Ray_PA, can you list the item or part number you ordered from Amazon to bypass the RIO function? Does this effect any of the other dash indicators besides the loss of the mid PTO RPM on the digital display?

I am weighing my options as to what method to use to disable this ridiculous RIO function.
Below is the link to Amazon for the connector.
Bypassing the need for the RIO is easily done with this connector, once you put the jumper wire in the connector.
Once you unplug the MBR (mid, both, rear PTO sensor) sensor wiring connector, you will have one half the connector that goes to the sensor in the transaxle and the other half of the connector is connected to the wiring harness that goes back to the tractor control module in the dash. This is the half of the connector that needs the jumper wire installed.
So, take connector from Amazon and use the half that fits into this half of the connector. Simply crimp a wire connecting one pin to the other pin and plug it into the wiring harness connector. Use the other unused connector half to install in the MBR sensor connector to keep dirt out.
Quick and easy and can be put back to OEM in 10 seconds.

BTW.... this bypass also bypasses the seat switch.

Negatives on this bypass method.....the PTO speed display will show 540 RPM rather than the mid PTO speed, although, if you are like me, I only look at the tach PTO mark anyway.

Positives on this bypass method....no need to cut wires (biggest reason i did mine this way), no need to remove engine side covers or floor board and bypasses the need for the RIO and seat switch all in one.

Pictures are posted on page 1 of this thread.

https://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-74812-...01HQEUKC?tag=vs-powersports-convert-amazon-20
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
388 Posts
You have to do more disassembly for the 2015 and newer 1 series. There is an additional plastic back plate behind the dash. I ended up removing the cowl under the dash as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,846 Posts
I was able to easily access the switch on my 2015 1025, jumper the red and orange wires and it works beautifully, can back up all I want and the pto tach works.

It's bad enough they put this garbage on an otherwise great tractor, but then to make it harder to disable is just reprehensible.

However, if I had to lift the engine out to disable the RIO, I probably would.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Thanks for all the replies. Really considering the MBR connector route due to ease of access to both install and remove, should I need to for "warranty work". Not really concerned with the digital readout for the PTO, don't use that anyway. Not keen on disassembling the entire console just to install a jumper, considering the possibility would exist that It would have to be done again to remove it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Any ideas what the red and light blue wires are that dead end in a multi pin connector behind the left side panel behind the blank switch knock out in the dash? What other "options" would install to use this knock out in the dash? Additional/rear work light(s) are the only options I did not get on this unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Thanks for all the replies. Really considering the MBR connector route due to ease of access to both install and remove, should I need to for "warranty work". Not really concerned with the digital readout for the PTO, don't use that anyway. Not keen on disassembling the entire console just to install a jumper, considering the possibility would exist that It would have to be done again to remove it.
I used Ray_Pa method on the RIO disconnect and it works great and can easily be reversed if needed
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,158 Posts
The red and blue harness on the left side of the dash behind the rocker switch blank is for a rocker switch that controls the optional Independent Hydraulic MMM lift. This system uses an independent hydraulic cylinder, momentary rocker switch (mounted in the blank hole at the lower left of the dash panel) and a solenoid valve to lift the mmm.

There are three MMM lift system that JD uses. The mechanical lift that is attached to the 3 point rockshaft is the standard lift system.
Attached is a list of the three different lift systems.

1. The mechanical lift uses the 3 point rockshaft to lift and lower the mmm. The 3 point and mmm are lifted up and down at the same time. This system works good unless you want to have a 3 point attachment hanging on the 3 point and you want to lift and lower the mmm without moving the 3 point attachment.

2. Hydraulic lift. This system uses an independent hydraulic cylinder and linkage which separates the mmm lift from the 3 point. This cylinder is connected to the one FEL quick connect port when using the mmm. When not using the mmm, then the FEL is connected to this port.

3 Independent Hydraulic lift. This system use the independent hydraulic cylinder and linkage, the same as the hydraulic lift in (2), although, this system uses the momentary rocker switch and solenoid valve to lift the mmm. You would hold the rocker switch, the mmm lifts, then while holding the rocker switch you turn the height control to the position that you desire and release the switch. With this system, as soon as you release the rocker switch, the mmm drops to whatever height or lock position that you have the height control set at.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Drifterbike

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
I did the Ray_PA MBR switch jumper/connector install today. Works great, no more RIO! Could be easily removed and put back to original in about 15 seconds, 10 seconds of that would be getting the new tie wrap undone.

Thanks so much for the information.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,158 Posts
I just completed the mod on my 1025r and it works great. Thanks Ray
I have had my RIO bypassed since I wrote this reply to this post. I have had my tractor to the dealer for warranty work back when it was newer and never took the jumper wire out. The one technician at the dealer asked me what the jumper wire was for at the MBR switch so I told him. He said he was going to go home an jumper his 1023E the same way. As I said in early posts, the only negatives is, this jumping the MBR switch also bypasses the seat switch and causes the PTO RPM to show rear RPM all the time rather than mid. Neither are a problem for me.
Honestly, if my kids were using my tractor, which they are all grown so I am the only person who uses my tractor, I'm not sure I would have bypassed the MBR.
 
61 - 74 of 74 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top