[Qmckinley]

Hello
I am new to the forum but have a 2016 5045e tractor that currently does not start. It keeps blowing the 30 amp fuse for the ignition switch. I’ve traced lots of wires but haven’t found anything out of the ordinary. I’ve read a bunch about unplugging the sensor in the water jacket going to the injector pump but mine does not look the same as anything I’ve seen online. Any help would be appreciated. The dash does nothing.

 

[Adrianspeeder]

Can you post a picture of the blown fuse? Can narrow it down to a short or overload.

Adrianspeeder

 

[Qmckinley]

Absolutely. Put the new fuse in turn the key to on and pop.
thanks for the help

 

[Retroranger77]

What I would do is get a test light and attach it to the load side of the fuse. If the light illuminates, that is your shirt to ground. At that point, start disconnecting components until the light goes out. That should be your short. Obviously, the best way to go about this is with a wiring diagram, but if none is available, manual inspection will be your best option.

 

[Adrianspeeder]

That’s a dead short. Going to have to follow every bit of wire to see where the insulation has rubbed through.

 

[Qmckinley]

So I have been doing much swearing and came up with if I unplug this small sensor/relay (see picture) it not longer pops the 30amp fuse. It is located behind the dash in the wires coming and going from the ignition switch.
Does anyone think if I replace this it will fix it? I can’t fine any bad wires anywhere.

thanks

 

[etcallhome]

Welcome from Preston County, West Virginia

 

[Adrianspeeder]

That’s a resistor for the blower fan. The short would be after resistor on the wire for the fan if the fuse doesn’t blow having the resistor removed.

 

[Qmckinley]

Ok. I’m assuming the blower fan is for the emissions? On top of the motor.

 

[Adrianspeeder]

No like the cab heat/ac.

 

[Qmckinley]

No cab. Open air.

 

[Adrianspeeder]

Interesting. I don’t know what they are resisting then. I’ll have to look at mine tomorrow. Does it start now?

 

[Qmckinley]

Nope absolutely nothing.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Using that blown fuse I'd cut the top off, a grinding wheel works...just down to the metal connection pins. Solder a wire to each one, a foot of 16 gauge is fine (lamp cord).
Now you can connect those two wires to a 30 amp breaker or an old style incandescent headlight. Blowing 100 fuses is a beach and costs $$$. A circuit breaker get a push button resettable one. An old school 2 prong flasher works (it will simply click on-off).
Now! Start unplugging things until breaker, light, or flasher quits. The idea here is process of elimination.
You already did that by unplugging that 120 ohm resistor (using your test meter, see if it measures 120 ohms).
I wouldn't suggest doing this but I HAVE known people who did "the smoke test". They'd clip across the fuse seeing what smoked, which finds the bad part. I wouldn't recommend doing that since that usually means it can melt that wire, and all that has to be replaced. Just mentioning it.
A schematic wiring diagram is great because you locate that fuse then use a highlighter pen tracing along where/what it goes to, showing you where to look. It's a road map.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk

 

[ClydeLogan]

I think the OP is referring to this common fix for a no-start, blowing fuse, in case someone reading this thread is not familiar with it. In his situation, he can't find such a temperature sensor on his tractor, but it may help someone else.

 

[hosspuller]

I think the OP is referring to this common fix for a no-start, blowing fuse, in case someone reading this thread is not familiar with it. In his situation, he can't find such a temperature sensor on his tractor, but it may help someone else.

The new EPA tractors are common rail injection. (Recognize this by the manifold between the pump and the individual injectors) The injection pump merely provides fuel at injection pressure. Injection timing is a function of the engine computer. The older systems adjusted the injection timing at the pump based on the temp sensor.

 

[ClydeLogan]

Off topic, but I am wondering from the OP's pictures if it is usual for all the metal and braided lines to be painted in the engine color when shipped from the assembly plant? And also if the newer engines are all JD green?

 

[mo1]

Off topic, but I am wondering from the OP's pictures if it is usual for all the metal and braided lines to be painted in the engine color when shipped from the assembly plant? And also if the newer engines are all JD green?
View attachment 816579

The entire engine is JD green, including the hoses and filters, excepting the fuel filter and exhaust. The painted-on oil filter was really fun to remove at 100 hours. It was even more fun to pick the right oil filter as my engine was made about 800 units after they changed to a different filter and the paint covered up the part number on the filter the tractor shipped with. If you have a tier IV 3 cylinder 5E such as the one pictured above, bring your engine serial number to the dealer along with your tractor's serial number when you get an oil filter or you may get the wrong one.

 

[Tx Jim]

The engine oil filter T19044 @ $8.18 that JD utilized on their utility tractor engines since the mid 1960's has been updated. JD is very proud of their latter engine oil filter for a 3 cyl engine DZ114256 @ $25.92

 

[Qmckinley]

So I figured out that the wire that leaves the resister behind the dash is yellow. (59014) it splits into 3 wires two of which go to the rear wiring harness. If I unplug the whole rear wiring harness the fuse does not blow and my dash comes on and everything.
I have traced the wires to the left side. One going to the pto switch and one going to another resister and out as a green wire. I have unplugged the pto switch. Still blows the fuse. Unplugged the neutral safety switch still blows the fuse.
Any ideas?