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After installing front fenders cannot get to one of my grease zerk with the grease gun. I want to replace the straight zerk with a 45. I tried a 1/4-28 and it is not correct. So I assume it is metric.
 

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It is currently one of these: CH15805 However, JD Parts does not give any detail on that fitting.

45-degree zerk: M802010

Specification
Weight:0.02 LBS 0.01 Kg
Fitting Angle45
Thread Diameter6.000 MM
Thread Pitch0.750 MM
Thread Length4.500 MM
Overall Height23.500 MM
Width Across Flats9.000 MM
Material5.8
Finish
Note
 

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It should be one of these: M802010

Specification
Weight:0.02 LBS 0.01 Kg
Fitting Angle45
Thread Diameter6.000 MM
Thread Pitch0.750 MM
Thread Length4.500 MM
Overall Height23.500 MM
Width Across Flats9.000 MM
Material5.8
Finish
Note
Mike is always a good one to get great information out there...
 

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There are two different 1/4-28 sizes. 1/4-28 taper thread (SAE-LT) and 1/4-28 straight UNF2A. I'm almost certain this is the 1/4-28 taper thread. The 0 degree is JD7844, the 45 degree is JD7788 and the 90 degree is JD7806.
 

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There are two different 1/4-28 sizes. 1/4-28 taper thread (SAE-LT) and 1/4-28 straight UNF2A. I'm almost certain this is the 1/4-28 taper thread. The 0 degree is JD7844, the 45 degree is JD7788 and the 90 degree is JD7806.
Since he removed the original zerk wouldn't it be easy to look at the threads and tell if it is straight or taper?

taper.jpg
TAPER


straight.jpg
STRAIGHT
 

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Just another way to make the tractor wear out and sell another. They weren't making enough on the sale of a tractor once every 30 years, they want you to get one every 5 years.:dunno::laugh:
 

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Current production units don't even have grease zerks anymore so apparently they aren't even needed.:dunno:
Sure, why grease when you can replace tie rod ends instead. :) It seems with each new model they delete more and more grease points. Believe me, it is not because they aren't needed, it's purely a cheap-out cost saving action.

Compare the number of grease zerks on an old tractor to a new one. All those moving parts still need lubrication.
 

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I'm going to disagree with you jgayman. The newer joints are sealed units and that's why they don't have grease zerks on them. A lot of shade tree mechanics who grease there own cars wear there joints out prematurely because they put to much grease in them. You're not supposed to put in so much grease that it blows out the seal; you're supposed to put in just enough to make it swell just a little. You blow out the seal and water gets in and that's the end of the joint. Grease doesn't wear out unless it's heated to a temperature that's beyond it's capabilities so in a sealed joint it will last the life of the joint. Old tractors and cars didn't have this technology available to them so lots of grease was the alternative.
Ron
 
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Hun, I don't know about the newer units but the steering axle pivot and the wheel spindle arms are just rod and bushing mechanisms so they need grease, rubbing is wear. I have found sealed bearings where the internal part of the bearing was spinning on the spindle shaft and wearing it away. :dunno: Had to shim it so the bearing would rotate correctly.
 

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Just another way to make the tractor wear out and sell another. They weren't making enough on the sale of a tractor once every 30 years, they want you to get one every 5 years.:dunno::laugh:
That's what they said about them when they started disappearing from cars and trucks too. I don't think you'll find a grease zirk on a modern automobile these days. But they seem to last pretty well. Had an IS300 that was still holding the original suspension together at 270k (16 years) when my son finally sold it after I handed it down to him. If they design things right they can do without regular greasing.

Rob
 

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That's what they said about them when they started disappearing from cars and trucks too. I don't think you'll find a grease zirk on a modern automobile these days. But they seem to last pretty well. Had an IS300 that was still holding the original suspension together at 270k (16 years) when my son finally sold it after I handed it down to him. If they design things right they can do without regular greasing.

Rob
My opinion is. Whatever whoever sells they want to advertise lower operating costs. Like buy our product and you won't have to spend $Xxx amount a year to operate it per the owners manual. This is another reason a lot of new vehicles come with prepaid service/maintenance. So if you buy it all you have to worry about is gas and payments. Just bring it back once or twice a year and we will do the rest.

This is nothing new. I think it was Hyundai had this year's ago. If I remember correctly it was 2 years or 30K miles. It was essentially 4 oil changes and two tire rotations. lol Just to try and hook a new buyer.

Take wheel bearings. The old Timkin style had to be cleaned and repacked every 30K miles. They usually require at least one new grease seal. Serviced correctly they lasted the life of the vehicle.
Then sealed wheel bearings came along. Nothing to do except wait for it to go bad. Then you usually have to replace the whole hub assembly.

The same thing happened with the Harley's. 1999 and older needed service every 10K miles or at least when you replace the tire. 2000 and newer are sealed. I can honestly tell you that the sealed jobs were more trouble. On the older bikes the cheep skate that only ever did tires paid the price eventually.

Also seen replacement suspension parts offered by Moog that are available both ways. Sealed or serviceable with a fitting. Went through 3 sets of sway bar end links on my Wrangler. The top has a small ball joint end that hooks to the bar. Eventually the ball end pulled out of the cup. The LAST set were Moog with grease fittings. They are still kicking. Amazingly every moving part in the front end had fittings from stock. Except the lower ball joints. So it's only 2 more on the links.
 
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