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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2018 1025r being delivered soon and just looking around at front snow plows and confused on what exactly is needed?

If you go here and pick the following options below, what would I pick for 3?:
Mutton Configurator


1. Front Quick Hitch for 1025r at $835
2. Hydraulic Angle Kit for 1025r at $189
3. Not sure what to pick for Attaching Support kit? 1025r isn't listed? Pick the Combo Bracket or is this part already on the 1025r and not needed? Odd that they list 1025r in steps 1 and 2 and then nothing in step 3???
 

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I have a 2014 1025R, and did the 60" quick hitch front blade setup in Dec 2017. No slam against Mutton, but when I did research I found their part numbers weren't up to date. I looked up the required part numbers in both the 2018 catalog as well as for my 2014....they are the same parts.

You need 4 things:

BLV10796 Front Attachment Kit $273.91 (replaces BLV10160) This is the kit that has the 2 brackets that mount inside the front frame rail, the "long skinny" bracket that mounts to the front frame cross member, mounting nuts & bolts, and the adaptor bracket that will slide into the 2 inner frame rail brackets (this is the part where the front PTO carrier bearings would mount for a blower or broom). Ironically, this kit does not come with the large pin that is needed to hold the adaptor bracket to the tractor, to finish it's installation. That comes in kit # BLV10708.

BLV10708 Hitch Kit $793.94 (replaces BLV10159) This is the kit that has the quick hitch itself, with the lift cylinder. Also has nuts & bolts, the pin to finish attaching the lift cylinder, hose guides for mounting to the quick hitch and tractor, and the large & small pins. The large pin is for holding the adaptor bracket to the tractor and the small pin gets mounted in the quick hitch and will lay into the "long skinny" bracket mounted to the front cross member. (see BLV10796 above)

BLV10880 Angling Cylinder Kit $303.89 (replaces LVB26108) Pretty basic...comes with the pins to attach it to the quick hitch. When I got mine, I actually got LVB26108. At that time, BLV10880 was replaced with LVB26108. Now JD has it going back the other way. Either will work. I did a little further research on these numbers, and the only thing I found was the (supplied) hoses had different part numbers. Possibly due to different vendors. Also possible is that BLV10880 hoses may have sleeves, where as my LVB26108 hoses did not. An important item I found out about my LVB26108 is the black and yellow dust caps for the quick connectors were on the wrong hoses, causing the left/right control to be backwards. To have it match the tractor correctly, the black dust cap needs to be on the hose going to the angling cylinders "rod end", the yellow on the "head or cap end". Just double check them to be sure.

BLV10047 60" Blade This is the actual part number on the box of mine. I don't know the price, as it's not truly listed on JDParts.com, at least that I can find. It doesn't price it, nor show it as an available kit. The parts catalog does have a break-down of the blade, showing parts available for replacement/repair, but not the complete kit. You'll have to price that out with your dealer.

As far as instructions, only the angling cylinder came with installation instructions. I've heard you can have you dealer print them off, but I didn't know that when I did mine. Using the parts illustrations I was able to figure it out pretty easily. A couple bolts that came with BLV10796 made me scratch my head for a minute but I got it figured out.

If you get the blade set-up and need help, give a holler. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the info! Great help! Not sure why something this simple is so hard to find info on! Mutton is 90% there!

Thanks again!
 

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I'm sure Mutton's computers are at the mercy of whatever John Deere's computers update to them. Maybe Mutton's in-house computer is proprietary and has issues interfacing with Deere's data sometimes. Whatever the case, I've found it reliable to look up my own parts on JDParts.com. Try this link:

JDParts: Homepage

This link allows you to register and link to a dealer, which you can also change at any time. Once linked to a dealer, you can get pricing and their inventory status. Once you get used to looking stuff up it gets pretty easy, though sometimes an item is listed in an area one might not think to look in. I just wish they would do away with 2 catalogs for the 1025R, and just use one catalog with serial number breaks. Then you could see a part that has 2 different designs, based on model year, in one place, instead of jumping between 2 catalogs.

FYI....your 2018 will use the catalog with the serial number break (1LV1025RLHJ100001- ). Serial number (-1LV1025RLHJ100001) is for the older tractors...2013 thru 2017, I believe. Though it has been found that some 2016's & possibly some 2017's have a 2018 style lower dash trim panel, which doesn't come off as easily like the older version. I could only find that listed in the 2018 catalog, not in the 2016 catalog like it should be. I find the illustrations in the catalogs are very good drawings of the actual parts, so if something doesn't look right, try the other catalog.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Cash

I think you asked before about a loser mountes pusher or blade? Any reason you want to go for quick hitch vs loader mounted?
I think I posted on someone else's post that was asking about the loader mount type or something. I don't really have a reason to push the snow that high and the length it adds would be problematic for me. And to do it right, it would probably be best to have they 3rd function valve installed and I don't see myself needing a grapple or anything and added cost I don't think it would be worth it.

Thanks for the response!
 

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I think I posted on someone else's post that was asking about the loader mount type or something. I don't really have a reason to push the snow that high and the length it adds would be problematic for me. And to do it right, it would probably be best to have they 3rd function valve installed and I don't see myself needing a grapple or anything and added cost I don't think it would be worth it.

Thanks for the response!
I use my quick hitch blade, broom and blower for commercial snow removal so length, width and speed of angling are all factors. If it was just me clearing my property id consider the loader mounted blade, even with manual angling its not terrible, you just learn how to clear it differently. I'm one of the quick hitch haters out there
 

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Cash

Check this post by Winter83. He's a selling quick hitch and adaptor bracket from his 2016 1025R. Not sure, but from the pictures it looks like it could be BLV10159 & BLV10160, along with the angling cylinder already on it. Don't think he is selling the brackets that mount to the tractor, but you could piece those out separately and get a blade and be all set. He's asking $600 or BO. The prices I showed earlier are close to $1400 just for those 3 parts. Should be a big savings, even after piecing the brackets, hose guides, bolts, etc. PM him if you're interested.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sale/180446-front-quick-hitch-1025r.html
 

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I use my quick hitch blade, broom and blower for commercial snow removal so length, width and speed of angling are all factors. If it was just me clearing my property id consider the loader mounted blade, even with manual angling its not terrible, you just learn how to clear it differently. I'm one of the quick hitch haters out there
It is disappointing how low to the ground the quick hitch is on the 1 series. The lower to the ground, the less blade angle clearance you have which ends up limiting the width of the front blade you can carry on the tractor with any angle.

Deere really needs to have a heavy duty professional 3 point hitch for the front of the 1 series. But when you think about all the money they saved by just kicking the can down the road by using the quick hitch, it likely is very appealing to Deere to hold the course.

The other issue is the height of the angling cylinder and 90 degree hydraulic fittings off the ground on the quick hitch. This is a very important reason why people should put the top flap on their plow to keep the snow from coming over the top of it. Once the snow comes over the blade, it piles on top of the quick hitch and the angling function, along with the heat from the exhaust pipe aimed at the back of the blade, it causes ice chunks to form and it can and will snap off or at least bend and cause the hydraulic fitting to break. I am sure you have found this with your front broom as well............

I just don't have the room for the added length of the blade on the FEL and I MUST have angling features for plowing, because of the amount of back dragging from garage doors. Since I carry a 3 point platform on the rear for ballast and equipment and supplies, adding the plow on the FEL mount makes my tractor to long for the heated storage of the 3rd garage bay.

And my tractor likes heated storage.......:good2: as do I......


KyleW, Excellent summary and write up, at the beginning of the
thread addressing the parts issues and kit components.

 

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I use my quick hitch blade, broom and blower for commercial snow removal so length, width and speed of angling are all factors. If it was just me clearing my property id consider the loader mounted blade, even with manual angling its not terrible, you just learn how to clear it differently. I'm one of the quick hitch haters out there
It is disappointing how low to the ground the quick hitch is on the 1 series. The lower to the ground, the less blade angle clearance you have which ends up limiting the width of the front blade you can carry on the tractor with any angle.

Deere really needs to have a heavy duty professional 3 point hitch for the front of the 1 series. But when you think about all the money they saved by just kicking the can down the road by using the quick hitch, it likely is very appealing to Deere to hold the course.

The other issue is the height of the angling cylinder and 90 degree hydraulic fittings off the ground on the quick hitch. This is a very important reason why people should put the top flap on their plow to keep the snow from coming over the top of it. Once the snow comes over the blade, it piles on top of the quick hitch and the angling function, along with the heat from the exhaust pipe aimed at the back of the blade, it causes ice chunks to form and it can and will snap off or at least bend and cause the hydraulic fitting to break. I am sure you have found this with your front broom as well............

I just don't have the room for the added length of the blade on the FEL and I MUST have angling features for plowing, because of the amount of back dragging from garage doors. Since I carry a 3 point platform on the rear for ballast and equipment and supplies, adding the plow on the FEL mount makes my tractor to long for the heated storage of the 3rd garage bay.

And my tractor likes heated storage.......
as do I......


KyleW, Excellent summary and write up, at the beginning of the
thread addressing the parts issues and kit components.

No issues with broom icing up as the hitch system stays fairly clear. I would like to do the exhaust downturn as the exhaust makes a black mess of everything in front of it.

Loader mounted plow doesn’t work for the pro guys due to speed and length of total unit. they certainly need a professional grade system. Were beating the dead horse here asking for one as I’m sure they will recycle the parts till the end.

I don’t have a loader mounted plow but a snow pusher and I love it. Unfortunately we havnt had much snow since the end of November and all I’ve really done is cleared the snow drifts and some lawn areas off but I would have hated doing it with the QH blade
 

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KyleW, Excellent summary and write up, at the beginning of the
thread addressing the parts issues and kit components.

Thank you SB. It's maybe one of the few things I know about my tractor :lol:

No issues with broom icing up as the hitch system stays fairly clear. I would like to do the exhaust downturn as the exhaust makes a black mess of everything in front of it.
I had the same problem. The factory exhaust heats the left side of the blade and creates ice, like Sulley mentioned. Blackens the loader when using that. I got a silicone 90° elbow and tried pointing in down between the front wheels. That made the right hand side of the blade heat up and ice. I now have it blowing over the left front wheel. That fixed the icing and loader soot. You might consider that instead.
 

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I went with the Deere quick hitch but a CTA 60" blade. Its taller and has real skid shoes on it I have had it three seasons and love it.
 
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