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Are you pushing in on the hood release on the right side? I just use my key to press in on the release and the hood pops open.
Yep. My dealer even had issues with this, as it seems it wasnt well explained that the hood release was different on the new models.
I knew, because Id watched a bunch of videos and read a lot about my tractor before I bought, but Im not typical, I tend to over obsess about things.
Anyway, the point is, you need to take your tractor key, or any key, or anything narrow that fits in the hole, and push in.
It will release the hood.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Yep. My dealer even had issues with this, as it seems it wasnt well explained that the hood release was different on the new models.
I knew, because Id watched a bunch of videos and read a lot about my tractor before I bought, but Im not typical, I tend to over obsess about things.
Anyway, the point is, you need to take your tractor key, or any key, or anything narrow that fits in the hole, and push in.
It will release the hood
.
To "update" something such as the hood latch handle / release and go from where you simply slide a small protruding lever to open the hood, to a system which requires ANYTHING ADDITIONAL to open the hood is regression in my opinion. One more thing needed to do something which shouldn't require anything. Same with the 10mm side panel bolts, as compared to the long used Zeus type pins with thumb wings used for years on many models.

I know some have either removed the side panel bolts and run without them or there are some inserting long pins and using a spring clip through one of the holes. I plan to modify mine to be the same as they are with the Thumb Zeus pins on my 455. You should be able to open hoods and remove side panels with your bare hands and no tools. I wish the engineer's felt the same way and frankly, I don't understand why they are making things more difficult and less user friendly than they should be and in fact were 30 years ago.......

I plan to provide the details when I make the side panel retainer change. The John Deere part numbers for the parts I plan to use are M91390, M118285 AND M91389. That Zeus style pin has been used for years. Heck, it's what holds the body panels on drag cars at 200 plus MPH so we know they hold like they are supposed to. So, if for some reason the Deere pins don't work the best (Diameter or length), there are many alternatives available in the after markets parts suppliers.
 

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To "update" something such as the hood latch handle / release and go from where you simply slide a small protruding lever to open the hood, to a system which requires ANYTHING ADDITIONAL to open the hood is regression in my opinion.
This was my thought when this issue first surfaced. They changed the side panels to tool less fasteners but then go and change the latch from tool less to something that basically needs a tool to open. Duh.
 

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This was my thought when this issue first surfaced. They changed the side panels to tool less fasteners but then go and change the latch from tool less to something that basically needs a tool to open. Duh.
This is the new generation. These guys/gals get out of school, think they know everything, and jump in both feet and make change for the sake of change. Stupid, if you ask me.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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I wouldn't call it needing tools... all you need is the tractor key. Not to difficult.
True. But for the past couple decades none of the tractors needed anything but a finger to open the hood.
 

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I have a 2018 as well. I was pretty surprised when I had to check the manual to figure out how to open the hood. After thinking about it for a few months now, the only thing I’ve come up with is preventing the hood from unlatching by accident. Has anyone with the older models had a stick or something else grab the hood latch and release it? With the struts on the hood the last few years it would pop right open. That’s the only thing I have come up with. I think the larger models have this as well for 2018.
 
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opening aint the only issue

that's right... there is a service recall on the hood latch bar itself.... the old 2018..(yes old) the bar is too short and the retainer willnot plunge and secure the hood... so instead of going to my dealer... I took off the bar and put two nice thick flat washers under the top of the bar and refastened the bar to the hood...
I saw a tech update on their site saying load the tractor on your trailer a^^ backards to eliminate the possibility of hood opening during transport..
 

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This was my thought when this issue first surfaced. They changed the side panels to tool less fasteners but then go and change the latch from tool less to something that basically needs a tool to open. Duh.
I too wondered about this. I hadnt seen the previous version, how did it work?

I recall reading or seeing in a video that the change had something to do with keeping the hood more secure, but not sure why it was necessary without seeing the old. Also, it could have been done in a different way.
If they were going to require a key or something similar, why not put it at the operators station? It would be easier to access anyway.

I also agree that quite a few times, people change things simply for the sake of change, not considering that it wont work any better than the previous version did.
 
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I have a 2018 as well. I was pretty surprised when I had to check the manual to figure out how to open the hood. After thinking about it for a few months now, the only thing I’ve come up with is preventing the hood from unlatching by accident. Has anyone with the older models had a stick or something else grab the hood latch and release it? With the struts on the hood the last few years it would pop right open. That’s the only thing I have come up with. I think the larger models have this as well for 2018.


As far as I'm concerned, the "hood support" on SCUTs/MCUTs were mastered with the likes of a solid bar that hinged in the middle (but not all the way), as seen on my 2520. This whole gas strut nonsense is ridiculous, as we ALL know it's going to fail, and JD isn't going to be giving it away, either.
 

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To "update" something such as the hood latch handle / release and go from where you simply slide a small protruding lever to open the hood, to a system which requires ANYTHING ADDITIONAL to open the hood is regression in my opinion.
Couldn't agree more Sulley, my guess has been that the engineers at JD had lunch with the legal dept. and came up with the idea that this will prevent people from opening the hood with the tractor running. :banghead: It's a pain but like anything else, seems pretty minor once you have it awhile.
 
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:ttiwwp:

I must have missed something on GTT. Since my "ancient" 1026 just has a lever sticking out the front grille, what does the new design look like?

Can any on share a pic or a link to a pic of the new design?
 

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I can see it and touch the hood opening knob on right side of grill but cant open hood! What am I doing wrong?
Same problem here

Look at the manual, no help

Called the dealer but they were closed

Watched a pile of youtubes

Guy stopped to see my 1025r and he knew the answer

Elapsed time . . . 6 hours :banghead::banghead::banghead:
 
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My dealer actually showed me how to open the hood on the walk through. He took the key out of the ignition and pushed it into the recess. Whats nice is the new tractors have plastic style zeus clips to hold the side panels on, so you can access parts of the engine.

I am ok with using my key to open the hood, but the location in behind the "kickstand" for the loader is a terrible design. It takes a little finger contortion to make it pop.

I guess kudos to my dealer for showing me what they should have and thumbs down for the design.

2018 1025R TLB
 

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My dealer actually showed me how to open the hood on the walk through. He took the key out of the ignition and pushed it into the recess. Whats nice is the new tractors have plastic style zeus clips to hold the side panels on, so you can access parts of the engine.

I am ok with using my key to open the hood, but the location in behind the "kickstand" for the loader is a terrible design. It takes a little finger contortion to make it pop.

I guess kudos to my dealer for showing me what they should have and thumbs down for the design.

2018 1025R TLB
I was going to say the same thing, it's a not a handy spot to get at when you have the FEL on but other than that I've gotten past that design change.
 

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:ttiwwp:

I must have missed something on GTT. Since my "ancient" 1026 just has a lever sticking out the front grille, what does the new design look like?

Can any on share a pic or a link to a pic of the new design?
Here are some pics. Green Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle Wheel
Audio equipment Microphone Technology Electronic device Electronic instrument
:usa
 

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Oh my... if the hole were any smaller you would have to file down the key to fit.
It is a tight fit, plus it has to be a certain way or it will not push the plunger, or at least on mine. :banghead:
 
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