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2018 1025R 120R FEL 54D mower
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2018 1025r with 200+ hours on it stopped mid use and wont start now. Battery is good, alternator is new battery showing 12+ volts.

I turn the key and nothing, no lights no fuel pump sounds, zilch, zero, the big goose egg.
My only thinking is it must be the ignition switch. Has anyone else had this happen?
Thanks.
 

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Hi All
Have you checked the fuses it could be one of 2 fuses. My 1025 R has a bad habit of blowing a fuse, then when it is replaced the tractor is OK for a few months. I keep a couple in my wallet.
Regards John
 

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Have your battery tested at Advance Auto, Auto Zone, your dealer. 12v on a volt meter means NOTHING, when it comes to starting your tractor. Your battery needs tested under a LOAD..
 
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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Is your PTO switch on?
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Load testing the battery is the ONLY way to know. I am surprised more people don't own a load tester considering all of the 12v batteries in their lives.......Wait until you have to take that battery out of your 1025r to test it at a store, you will wish you owned a load tester, have Santa bring you one.......After all, everyone would rather have Santa bring them a LOAD TESTER verses a "Coal Tester"....... ;) 🎄 It's only $20.


Curious why a 2018 1025r with 200 hours needed a new alternator? And why and how long ago was it replaced?
 

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2018 1025R 120R FEL 54D mower
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Load testing the battery is the ONLY way to know. I am surprised more people don't own a load tester considering all of the 12v batteries in their lives.......Wait until you have to take that battery out of your 1025r to test it at a store, you will wish you owned a load tester, have Santa bring you one.......After all, everyone would rather have Santa bring them a LOAD TESTER verses a "Coal Tester"....... ;) 🎄 It's only $20.


Curious why a 2018 1025r with 200 hours needed a new alternator? And why and how long ago was it replaced?
Replaced the alternator about 15 hours ago. Battery wasn't charging, put in new alternator and back to normal until now.

I would think with a battery showing over 12 volts with either a booster box, or a truck with a battery with 800CCA connected to it I would at least get dash light, etc. even without cranking. Currently nothing and battery connections are tight.
 

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My 2018 1025r with 200+ hours on it stopped mid use and wont start now. Battery is good, alternator is new battery showing 12+ volts.

I turn the key and nothing, no lights no fuel pump sounds, zilch, zero, the big goose egg.
My only thinking is it must be the ignition switch. Has anyone else had this happen?
Thanks.
Was switch on the 2025R. Also starter relay. They said the switch was all corroded. Some corrosion on battery terminals, too.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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A bad ignition switch doesn't keep the lights from coming on when you turn the switch. The light switch is hot when turned on, even with the key off.

A battery which is dead shorted with "Sudden Death Syndrome" can make everything appear dead because NO power gets through the battery in some instances

7 of the last 8 times a thread like this was posted, it was the battery, despite

  • 12 volt showing on the volt meter
  • being jumped with another vehicle
  • The owner sure the battery was good. It wasn't.

Until you LOAD TEST the battery, you are wasting your time on everything else.
 

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Battery is good, even hooked up to my truck with cables, nothing.
I can't explain why, but this situation of jump starting doing nothing is often reported with the sudden death of the Deere Strongbox wet cell battery.

If you want to try jump starting the tractor with your truck battery, disconnect the leads from the Deere battery and put the jumper cable ends directly on the tractor cables, with the Deere Strongbox just sitting there all alone and totally out of the starting circuit.

Then report back.
 

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I have the same 2018 1025r does the same thing. I hook up the old battery charger and it seems to reset it right away. Spins the starter like new battery.!! I don’t know, go figure.
 

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Battery is good, even hooked up to my truck with cables, nothing.
Hook up you volt meter and turn the ignition to start the tractor. Watch the volt meter. Just as good as a test. Should drop way down if battery bad. Single digit volts... If it is bad disconnect the negative cable and hook your jumpers to the positive terminal and the negative lead keeping it away from the negative battery terminal. It should start. No testing needed beyond that.

If not battery then could be fusing. It is not ALWAYS sudden battery death.

john Deere 1025R
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My guess is it’s the battery. When mine went bad I could jump start the tractor, but it would die when the jumper was removed.

It’s possible you blew a main fuse or the ground is bad .
 

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Curious why a 2018 1025r with 200 hours needed a new alternator? And why and how long ago was it replaced?
Replaced the alternator about 15 hours ago. Battery wasn't charging, put in new alternator and back to normal until now.

I would think with a battery showing over 12 volts with either a booster box, or a truck with a battery with 800CCA connected to it I would at least get dash light, etc. even without cranking. Currently nothing and battery connections are tight.
Was the alternator replaced under warranty by the dealer? Or was it diagnosed and replaced by @mtmactom ?
My OE battery died a sudden death 3 years and a couple months into ownership. Went from starting and running fine, shut down tractor to attach an implement, then only clicking from the relays. After much wasted time troubleshooting a new battery had it fixed right up.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Was the alternator replaced under warranty by the dealer? Or was it diagnosed and replaced by @mtmactom ?
My OE battery died a sudden death 3 years and a couple months into ownership. Went from starting and running fine, shut down tractor to attach an implement, then only clicking from the relays. After much wasted time troubleshooting a new battery had it fixed right up.
Since the machine is a 2018 and the alternator was replaced "about 15 hours ago", it was likely in the last few weeks or months. The warranty on the alternator expires at 24 months of machine age and then the "Power Train Warranty" is what covers for the remaining time. My money would be on that the alternator was replaced by the owner and self diagnosed.

I also hope the OP still has the alternator which he replaced as I would bet there is nothing wrong with it. The replacement of the alternator was likely the start of the battery failure. It probably went something like this....

Machine was slow to start. Alternator was replaced. Since the assumption was that the alternator wasn't charging, the battery was likely charged after the alternator was replaced. Tractor behaved like it is supposed to until complete battery failure, which happens.

Many batteries start to show they are dying by slow cranking yet they will start the engine. These StrongBox batteries seem to behave differently. In many cases, they give a warning of their pending doom, which might have led to the alternator replacement. When they experience complete failure, the entire system is dead, despite trying to jump start the tractor with the traditional methods. That's likely because the battery has failed internally and could have a dead short, etc.

The vibration of the small diesel engines is hard on many parts, with batteries leading the way. Once they do fail, they lead to this same conclusion by many people that its one of many other parts. I can't count the number of times this discussion has been held here on GTT. Overwhelmingly, the battery replacement solves the issue. In fact, I can't remember it being an ignition switch, or anything else. There was one where there was a lot of corrosion on the dash wires but that machine was loaded with corrosion from being used to commercially clear sidewalks and spread salt.........

It's usually the battery..............Next comes the discusssion of alternate batteries at a lower cost. We can all predict how that will end also........... If the goal is to save money, there are other options. If the goal is to maintain the CCA demanded by this machine, then the Deere Strongbox is the answer..............

Then comes the actual replacement of the battery, tucked down in the front end of the machine and the headlight mounting studs needing to come out, etc...........

Oh, and make sure to save the old battery vent hose and clean it, as the new batteries don't come with a vent hose. And the one on the machine is likely plugged from dirt and dust from the mower................
 
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