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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey i need to top of the two reservoir bottles and the manual states 10W-30 oil. It has the tuff torq TZT7D transmission and after reviewing the below it just states 10W-30 oil was used as the original fluid. I am wondering if john deere 10W-30 engine oil was used or something else. Does anyone have any idea on what to use to top off the fluids? (the two bottles are below the add line)


thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes this is what I already know. Just wondering what type of oil was used or should be used if anyone knows?
 

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It won't matter that much. If you are close to a dealer you can use the JD stuff. If not I wouldn't worry about a special trip.

It is interesting that they put 10-30W in your machine. I say that because I have a Z950R which also has a Tuff Torque though a different version of course. Tuff Torque actually recommends engine oil in it however part of the agreement to use them on the Z9xx machines they required that they be certified to operate on JD branded HyGuard hydraulic fluid. This way we have to go back to the dealer for our oil.

I guess my first question for you is do you or did you have a leak? My drives have never been low on fluid. It was still at full when I changed it and the filters for the 250 hr service. It can't really go anywhere and being down a couple quarts seems like quite a bit. I am trying to remember what my drives and reservoir required when I did a filter and fluid change but I want to say it was a little over a gallon for the drives and the tank.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah no leak that I can see. Just doing the pre-season maintenance and I noticed the left side was low. Right side good. Sounds good. I have some leftover JD 10w-30 that I’ll use
 

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I'm with ...sennister here. It is best you re-fill the hydros with the Jogn Deere HyGuard type, as that who will make the warranty if you have such to happen. TuffTorg recommends the 10-w-30 weight. However, they won't pay a penny to replace any parts. Yes, Deere know you have some money left over from the purchase, and they also know you will give it to them in maintenance supplies.
 

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I'm with ...sennister here. It is best you re-fill the hydros with the Jogn Deere HyGuard type, as that who will make the warranty if you have such to happen. TuffTorg recommends the 10-w-30 weight. However, they won't pay a penny to replace any parts. Yes, Deere know you have some money left over from the purchase, and they also know you will give it to them in maintenance supplies.
Just to clarify, he has in his drives from the factory and his JD manual calls for 10w-30.

I don't know which model/series they switch from motor oil in the drives to hydraulic oil. I do know that the Z9xx machines have HyGuard. Quite possibly the Z7xx also does. There is Low Viscosity and High Viscosity. I have to keep a gallon of both on hand because my Z950R takes one and my X585 takes the other and I just write on the bottle which goes in which machine. My X585 goes through more mainly from leaked fluid from changing over hydraulic attachments such as the FEL and front blade. From researching the ZTR drive, the manufacturer says to use motor oil even on these bigger units. Keep in mind JD doesn't make these drives and they are used on a lot of other ZTRs of different colors. Sometimes these "final assemblers" such as John Deere, Kubota or any other company that uses them might have a reason (financial) that they override or influence what makes its way into the assembled machine and manual. Deere likes us coming back for their oil. If I were to guess, maybe this is a bit of a stretch but do they sell the Z5xx at big box stores? I know I have seen JD ZTRs and small tractors in Lowes but never really looked at which models they were. I can see where if they sell a model in a big box store that they might just go with motor oil in the drives. They don't stock HyGuard there so they probably went with an oil that is more easier to source. You can't buy a Z7xx or Z9xx at a Lowes or HD. So you are going to have to go to a dealer. If I were to guess, that is my theory.

I did consider going to motor oil when I did my 250hr service as my warranty was up anyhow, I don't recall the weight but I was thinking 30SAE but maybe it was 10w-30 as I use 30SAE in the engine. In the end I stuck with HyGuard simply because there would be no way to really get all the HyGuard out, I don't know how well they would play together mixed and if I were to try and flush and fill with engine oil it would take a lot of engine oil to get all the HyGuard out so from a cost perspective it really didn't make sense. Just stick with what was in it. If it has 10w-30 and that is what the manual calls for, stick with it. Same for HyGuard. No only that but sometimes seals don't like change.
 

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