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Discussion Starter #1
I have 38 hrs. on my 2025R, and was doing some work this evening, when the tractor stalled. I knew I had been low on fuel, so I thought I had run out. Filled up the tank, started it, and again it ran for a couple seconds, rather choppy, then stalled. Turned the key to run to prime the fuel system, started again, same thing... ran a couple seconds, sputtering, and stalled. At this point I noticed the oil pressure light was blinking when the key was in the run position, so I let it sit, checked the oil, and was full.

I have the cell phone number of my dealer's service manager, and he was good enough to talk through this with me a bit. He thought I probably airlocked the injectors, and recommended loosening them lines and bleeding them out. I did this, and still, same thing.

At this point she's sitting out on the edge of the woods, and I don't know what my next step should be. Any thoughts?
 

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Water in the fuel?
Been doing lots of dirty work or bush hogging to where your filter is clogged?
Got fuel pressure?
 

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I have 38 hrs. on my 2025R, and was doing some work this evening, when the tractor stalled. I knew I had been low on fuel, so I thought I had run out. Filled up the tank, started it, and again it ran for a couple seconds, rather choppy, then stalled. Turned the key to run to prime the fuel system, started again, same thing... ran a couple seconds, sputtering, and stalled. At this point I noticed the oil pressure light was blinking when the key was in the run position, so I let it sit, checked the oil, and was full.

I have the cell phone number of my dealer's service manager, and he was good enough to talk through this with me a bit. He thought I probably airlocked the injectors, and recommended loosening them lines and bleeding them out. I did this, and still, same thing.

At this point she's sitting out on the edge of the woods, and I don't know what my next step should be. Any thoughts?
sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me.
 
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No very dirty work, I was grading clear land at the time just before failure. All my fuel has been high quality from a new can, and the water separator has shown no sign of the presence of water.

When you say clogged fuel filter, do you mean the filter that is in the water separator bowl or the inline filter? I just have a hard time believing the filter could be bad at 38 hrs with the kind of work I've been doing.
 

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The filter is easy and cheap to replace, I’d start there. All it takes is some bad fuel to plug it up. You can at least open it up and take a look at it.
 

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No very dirty work, I was grading clear land at the time just before failure. All my fuel has been high quality from a new can, and the water separator has shown no sign of the presence of water.

When you say clogged fuel filter, do you mean the filter that is in the water separator bowl or the inline filter? I just have a hard time believing the filter could be bad at 38 hrs with the kind of work I've been doing.
Doesn't matter the age of a filter, you may have gotten some dirty fuel which also means the filter was doing it's job. Change the filter under the floorboard, from the sounds of what you say is going on that's the first thing I would do is change the fuel filters. It's a good practice to always keep extra fuel filters on hand.
 

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No very dirty work, I was grading clear land at the time just before failure. All my fuel has been high quality from a new can, and the water separator has shown no sign of the presence of water.

When you say clogged fuel filter, do you mean the filter that is in the water separator bowl or the inline filter? I just have a hard time believing the filter could be bad at 38 hrs with the kind of work I've been doing.
Doesn't matter the age of a filter, you may have gotten some dirty fuel which also means the filter was doing it's job. Change the filter under the floorboard, from the sounds of what you say is going on that's the first thing I would do is change the fuel filters. It's a good practice to always keep extra fuel filters on hand.
Thanks, I'll give it a try
 

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Doesn't matter the age of a filter, you may have gotten some dirty fuel which also means the filter was doing it's job. Change the filter under the floorboard, from the sounds of what you say is going on that's the first thing I would do is change the fuel filters. It's a good practice to always keep extra fuel filters on hand.
:thumbup1gif:
#4 and #5
 

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38 hours, and this happened as you were getting low on fuel. I'd certainly be suspicious of debris, factory or other, in your fuel tank clogging the filter. Or possibly water.
 

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There is a fuel shutoff on the line to the filter, is it possible it’s turned almost off? A trickle would supply enough fuel to start after a period but not enough to run. Perhaps something brushed the lever or you unintentionally bumped it and have it nearly in the off position.
 
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There is a fuel shutoff on the line to the filter, is it possible it’s turned almost off? A trickle would supply enough fuel to start after a period but not enough to run. Perhaps something brushed the lever or you unintentionally bumped it and have it nearly in the off position.
That's a good idea. I checked the shutoff on my water seperator bowl bu didn't consider chexking for another on at the inline filter.
 

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If you haven’t been cranking it over until all the air comes out at each cracked open injector line in the proper firing order I wouldn’t expect it to fire and run.


JD 110H, 140H3, & 318 w/ 23HP Vanguard
 

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If you haven’t been cranking it over until all the air comes out at each cracked open injector line in the proper firing order I wouldn’t expect it to fire and run.


JD 110H, 140H3, & 318 w/ 23HP Vanguard
I've never had to deal with airlock before. Tell me if I did it right... I cracked each of the lines where they thread onto the injectors, all at the same time. Wrapped the line nuts with rags, and cranked until the rags were wet. I then tightened them all back down. When it didn't start, l repeated the process twice more.
 

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If you haven’t been cranking it over until all the air comes out at each cracked open injector line in the proper firing order I wouldn’t expect it to fire and run.
These newer diesels have self-bleeding injection systems. There's no need to bleed or risk contaminating the very expensive high pressure side of the injection system. :good2:
 

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Every time I have run a diesel out of fuel it's been difficult to get restarted. It coughs and bucks, turn key off, start again, coughs and bucks. Repeat. It eventually will start. This can take about 10 minutes sometimes. Did you get that far?
 
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Discussion Starter #16
If you haven’t been cranking it over until all the air comes out at each cracked open injector line in the proper firing order I wouldn’t expect it to fire and run.
These newer diesels have self-bleeding injection systems. There's no need to bleed or risk contaminating the very expensive high pressure side of the injection system.
Nonetheless, the service manager did direct me to try bleeding air...
 

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Nonetheless, the service manager did direct me to try bleeding air...
This will only complicate things. There's no need to open the high pressure side of the injection system, nor the low pressure side either. The system is totally self-bleeding. Doing so will only introduce more potential issues.

Here's your manual. Please check section 230.


 

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Every time I have run a diesel out of fuel it's been difficult to get restarted. It coughs and bucks, turn key off, start again, coughs and bucks. Repeat. It eventually will start. This can take about 10 minutes sometimes. Did you get that far?
I beleive so. Going to pick up a new fuel filter now.
 

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Back to some basics here. Make sure you have good clean fuel with adequate quantity in the tank. Then, check operation of electric fuel pump. Turn key on and listen for the pump. Remove fuel line from separator if needed to verify flow. If you have good flow, run the electric fuel pump for a few key-on cycles to purge air from low pressure side. Advance throttle to full and attempt to start. DO NOT run starter for longer than 20 seconds between start attempts or starter damage may occur from overheating. Modulate throttle as engine begins to start.

If you do not have good flow from separator, you must troubleshoot as to why. Plugged filter(s), kinked line, no fuel, plugged tank suction line, etc ,etc.

Do not open the high pressure side of your injection system. It is 100% self bleeding. You risk injuring yourself with the high pressure fuel squirting out and contaminating the high pressure side with dirt. These modern injectors and pumps have zero tolerance for any foreign material. Damage can and will occur very quickly. These aren't yesteryear's diesels and tractors.
 

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Back to some basics here. Make sure you have good clean fuel with adequate quantity in the tank. Then, check operation of electric fuel pump. Turn key on and listen for the pump. Remove fuel line from separator if needed to verify flow. If you have good flow, run the electric fuel pump for a few key-on cycles to purge air from low pressure side. Advance throttle to full and attempt to start. DO NOT run starter for longer than 20 seconds between start attempts or starter damage may occur from overheating. Modulate throttle as engine begins to start.

If you do not have good flow from separator, you must troubleshoot as to why. Plugged filter(s), kinked line, no fuel, plugged tank suction line, etc ,etc.

Do not open the high pressure side of your injection system. It is 100% self bleeding. You risk injuring yourself with the high pressure fuel squirting out and contaminating the high pressure side with dirt. These modern injectors and pumps have zero tolerance for any foreign material. Damage can and will occur very quickly. These aren't yesteryear's diesels and tractors.
?
 
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