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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was mowing the other day and decided to try using the cab fan to move the air in the cab. Even with the temp switch set to the coldest setting, nothing but very hot air blew out of the vents.
Local JD dealer says this is normal.
Thoughts?
Thanks
 

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There should be a manual shut off valve that you can close to prevent coolant from coming through the heater core. I have also heard of people adding a second shut off valve to the return side of the core to reduce vent temps.
 

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I would just put a 90* throw ball valve in the hot water line and call it good. Be careful it won't screw up your engine cooling. You could test it by clamping off the feed line with a needle nose vise grip.

rob
 

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Stupid question as I only dream of a cabbed tractor...

Don't you have AC..?

I have read of the missing hot water shutoff.........It was a real part under the hood from probly the model A till the late 70's........Then they designed a computer to do what once was a "freedom" of changing the temp with your finger.

You could likely guess which one reaches way over there...... :unsure:
 

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Stupid question as I only dream of a cabbed tractor...

Don't you have AC..?
The factory cab on the 1025R has heat only.
 

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The factory cab on the 1025R has heat only.
Perhaps this is why I've read about tinting the windows.
And removing doors now that I ponder it more.
Most unfortunate...but a huge bonus if your in snow plow country.
I've got a simpleton canopy thats nearly as big as my tractor so I don't burn. No general use for the tractor in the winter here as it just makes more ruts in more mudd. I just can't take it anywhere after a rain as its all steep ground.
Do grade the 1/2 mile driveway and whatever on Gravel.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Mine blows air which isn't hot when the temp knob is turned as cold as it will go. It actually feels like it is just circulating air at whatever the outside air temp is and helps a great deal with staying more comfortable. I have done nothing or added nothing special to my Mauser cab other than I made sure the valve actually opened and closed correctly when I had the cab roof off. When I first got the tractor, the knob didn't move what I thought was a full range. I don't remember exactly what I did to it, but I seem to recall it wasn't adjusted to permit the valve to close down as far as the valve would and when I was wiring in other options, I made sure to get the valve to move as far as it could / should.

Also, I have a battery powered fan which I use which clamps a number of places and helps move air and make it more comfortable. The battery powered fan also helps to keep the windows clear after I have been out of the cab shoveling snow or doing something which causes body heat and breathing to be higher than just operating the machine.

In the summer, I keep the battery fan in front of me on the right door bar, bear the latch and in the winter, the battery fan is often at the rear of the right door bar, circulating air behind me.............Also, the fan runs for at least an hour on high on the rechargeable battery and very well could be close to 2 hours.....It uses a USB cord to charge and I have a cord to reach a rechargeable battery power pack to run it for much longer, like 5 to 6 hours....

For the money, its a good accessory for operator comfort. In fact, I might add a second one now that I am thinking about it........I am sure there are others which will work well. The clamp on this actually holds it where I place it, even with the bumps,. etc. which is an added benefit.

 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Mine blows air which isn't hot when the temp knob is turned as cold as it will go. It actually feels like it is just circulating air at whatever the outside air temp is and helps a great deal with staying more comfortable. I have done nothing or added nothing special to my Mauser cab other than I made sure the valve actually opened and closed correctly when I had the cab roof off. When I first got the tractor, the knob didn't move what I thought was a full range. I don't remember exactly what I did to it, but I seem to recall it wasn't adjusted to permit the valve to close down as far as the valve would and when I was wiring in other options, I made sure to get the valve to move as far as it could / should.

Also, I have a battery powered fan which I use which clamps a number of places and helps move air and make it more comfortable. The battery powered fan also helps to keep the windows clear after I have been out of the cab shoveling snow or doing something which causes body heat and breathing to be higher than just operating the machine.

In the summer, I keep the battery fan in front of me on the right door bar, bear the latch and in the winter, the battery fan is often at the rear of the right door bar, circulating air behind me.............Also, the fan runs for at least an hour on high on the rechargeable battery and very well could be close to 2 hours.....It uses a USB cord to charge and I have a cord to reach a rechargeable battery power pack to run it for much longer, like 5 to 6 hours....

For the money, its a good accessory for operator comfort. In fact, I might add a second one now that I am thinking about it........I am sure there are others which will work well. The clamp on this actually holds it where I place it, even with the bumps,. etc. which is an added benefit.

Just curious, was the cab installed at the JD factory, or was it an after market? Just wondering if they changed something once JD started installing them. Thanks for the reply. I will show this to the service manager at my local dealer and see what he says. It would be so nice to be able to use the overhead vents to move some air in there.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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Just curious, was the cab installed at the JD factory, or was it an after market? Just wondering if they changed something once JD started installing them. Thanks for the reply. I will show this to the service manager at my local dealer and see what he says. It would be so nice to be able to use the overhead vents to move some air in there.
The first couple of years of the Mauser cab availability, they were a dealer installed item, requiring about 12 to 15 hours of total labor to install them, since the new tractor had to be partially disassembled to install the cab at the dealer. As far as changing anything about the cab or heater system, there is nothing to indicate the cabs sold today are any different than the cabs sold in 2017, when my cab was installed. There are no serial number breaks or cab "model years" on the cooling components, etc. When you look up the cab parts, they are all in the 2018 and newer parts book and aren't broken down by any production dates or serial numbers. It appears they all use the very same components, from the numerous items I have looked up in the JD parts look up online.

The point of the temp control valve is to control the amount of heated water which the system is allowing to circulate through the heater core in the roof mounted heater. The more engine temp coolant is allowed into the heater core, the hotter the heat coming out of the vents.

My tractor had the coolant changed today as part of a comprehensive service at the 640 hour mark (my timing of the service, not necessarily Deere's service interval schedule). To make sure the tractor's cooling system was completely full since the roof mounted heater core and hoses hold additional coolant verses an open station tractor, I got the tractor up to normal temp and then opened the temp control valve on the ceiling to make sure the heater core was getting hotter. It is.

The air out of the vents is normally very close to the actual air temp this time of the year with the temp control valve turned down as low as possible. In fact, I leave my heater blower motor fan running in the middle setting all of the time, to circulate air. I control the cab temp by adjusting the heater control output valve and allow the cab to circulate air all of the time. You would be advised to use this same method as it keeps the cab windows clear in the winter and the cab temp consistently comfortable. Its much less adjusting and fiddling with switches, knobs and controls.

Attempts to maintain the most consistent temp and keep the windows clear all of the time in the winter are easily achieved by using the temp control valve to adjust the temp and always having air blowing out of the roof mounted air vents. Turning the blower motor up and down and trying to maintain the desired cab temp is more difficult when air isn't circulating continuously. That's why I also recommended the supplemental rechargeable fan to help with the air movement in the cab.

Feel free to contact me with any questions you may have about the cab or the tractor as I am glad to help and I am intimately familiar with the cab and seasonal use. I use my tractor as much, if not more in the cooler and cold weather as I don't do any mowing with my 1025r and much of the use is for snow removal, etc.

In fact, I got my tractor in October of 2017 and it had one hour on the meter when I received it. By the end of February of 2018, my tractor had 168 hours on it from snow removal, which was the heaviest winter use since I have owned it. Currently, my tractor has 642 hours on the hour meter.......... , ,,,
 
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You must have never driven a car before that didnt have factory a/c and tried doing that.. Yes its gonna blow hot air through the vents unless you install some inline valves on both heater hoses that go to the heater core. but even so, everything else internally is gonna get heated up from outside beating on roof and radiating to vents. So if its 90 degrees out, you can be rest assured you are gonna have probably 100 degree air blowing in your face like a blow dryer. If you want air circulation, you are better off installing a cab fan.
 
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