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I just received a new 2021 1025R and am getting familiar with it. I read on the forums for months prior and much is written about this model's 50 hour service of the transmission and 100 hour oil changes.

In my owner's manual, there is no mention whatsoever of any transmission service until 200 hours and no oil change until 400 hours, or yearly if under that.

Am I missing something? Did they change the intervals that drastically from the earlier model years? I'd sure like to know!

Thanks up front!

Eric
 

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Yes. JD deleted the initial 50 hr transmission service interval a few years ago. Some folks still do it as there is no harm in performing an initial clean out other than the harm to your wallet. :)
 

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Yep 👍. 200 hr service. Dont waste your money
 
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Good to know! Thanks much! I'll definitely be changing oil on the yearly interval as I'll never put 400 hours on this in a year!
 

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I just went through Deere service training on engine oil and coolant. They have changed the formula in their break in oil to allow for 500 hour extended drain. Personally I don’t think I could let my new engine go that long but that’s what Deere says. Break in oil is designed to help with ring seating. Don’t let it idle for extended periods of time and don’t baby it. Put it to work. Check the oil level and if you have to add oil add break in oil. I also change my oil yearly. I have had my x758 6 years now and only have 360 or so hours on it
 

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From what a saw when it did my 50 hour service , wouldnt skip it. My pick up screen was just about plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
From what a saw when it did my 50 hour service , wouldnt skip it. My pick up screen was just about plugged.
From what a saw when it did my 50 hour service , wouldnt skip it. My pick up screen was just about plugged.
I read about that. That's why it concerns me a bit! I can see the oil change interval as oils are so superior today with the modern add packs but the gasket sealer chunks I've seen in folk's first trans servicing is concerning!
 

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I did my 2025r at 50 hours. Did it need it badly? No but there was a lot of debris on the screen. I just did the 200 hour also. The fluid looks clean in the dipstick but once you drain it the fluid is dirty. Truth is waiting until 200 hours probably is fine.
 

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There can be "built-in dirt" from the initial assembly. I would recommend oil/filter change at 50 hours.
 

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I think the initial change of fluids would be advisable to clear up all the cuttings and debrie in the transmission and engine. After that I would say change every couple of years. I think more than that you're wasting money. About the only consideration would be if it were left out where moisture droplets would be created by excessive sunlight. Modern oil especially synthetics can go a lot of mileage and hrs. Just changed out mine in Camry after 10,000 miles.
 

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Hooray. They finally eliminated what I always thought a useless oil change. Never have gotten hardly any stuff to warrant such a change on all 3 tractors nor the Isuzu generator driver. Last cars I've owned have started off from day one with 10k oil changes.
 

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I went with Shell Rotella Diesel for my tractors....I don't know who Deere's source of oil is, but it's rebranded. My tractors...one with 1500 hrs and the 785 hr. tractor does not loose any oil....I've always been extremely impressed by the operation and balance of the 3 cylinder Yanmar sourced engines...have had some 4's but they weren't as smooth as the 3 due to firing degrees. Seems like the 180 degree firing has always been the smoothest. Also I check and blow out the air filters every change. A good source of oil standards and other materials used in engines is the Utube " project farm'. this poster trys all the brands and methods out in real time on machinery...light engines preferrably....one other somewhat waist is the excessive use of additivies. But to each his own.
 

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I did my first full service at 120 hours. The hydraulic oil looked as fresh and clear as the new HyGard that went back in. The suction screen had very little debris but there were some metal flakes that bugged me a little. Not ground up particles but small pieces like drilling chips. There weren't too many and they were very small but I still didn't like seeing them. I will try to hit the second change right at 200 hundred hours just to see if there are any more metal chips. If not, it will go on a 200 hour plan from then on. I use a 2 gallon Oilsafe brand jug and dispenser pump for the HyGard which makes filling real easy and quick. The hose is long enough so it even works for the front axle. The good ones aren't cheap but it is very clean and efficient and the only time it gets opened is to fill it.

The engine oil was dark as is typical with diesels but not too bad. I don't think I will go longer than 100 hours or yearly on that despite what the book says. I used the Costco branded 15W-40 full synthetic with the same top specs as the JD oil.

I was a little leery of pulling out the suction screen. I must've thought it was bigger and would be more difficult to line up and put put back in. I took the rear tire off and it was a snap. Some people have said they have two magnets inside the screen but mine had only one. It has two now because it broke, but both halves went right back in safe and secure.
 

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Deere oil is not rebranded. It is formulated to Deere's specification. Deere does not blend the oil is a more correct statement.
 
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