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On a Gen 2, which I own there is a little hole you are suppose to go through. I use this as a viewing port to line the grease fitting up with the nozzle on the grease gun. You can spinn things over by grabbing the flywheel and turning it. I then go through a slot near the hole where some lines go up and pull them out of the way to get on the grease fitting. This takes me anywhere from 5 minutes to 15 minutes to accomplish.

There are a lot ways to do this, one common way is to drill the hole larger. Lots of threads on this.
 

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If life were not challenging there would be no point in living it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
On a Gen 2, which I own there is a little hole you are suppose to go through. I use this as a viewing port to line the grease fitting up with the nozzle on the grease gun. You can spinn things over by grabbing the flywheel and turning it. I then go through a slot near the hole where some lines go up and pull them out of the way to get on the grease fitting. This takes me anywhere from 5 minutes to 15 minutes to accomplish.

There are a lot ways to do this, one common way is to drill the hole larger. Lots of threads on this.
Thanks. Although I believe my tractor is an early model I used the opening on the left side of the bell housing to get the job done. Looks like a hole in the plastic may help next time.
 

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You have to have a special Ujoint fitting on your grease gun for even the rear Ujoint that is easily accessible. When I had the 2025R's (gen. 1) ones done at 200 hours, the dealer actually removed the shaft so they could bend the Ujoints to get a regular gun on the zerks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You have to have a special Ujoint fitting on your grease gun for even the rear Ujoint that is easily accessible. When I had the 2025R's (gen. 1) ones done at 200 hours, the dealer actually removed the shaft so they could bend the Ujoints to get a regular gun on the zerks.
I picked up a what I call a needle grease gun attachment at TSC took the zerk, sleeve and clip off and put it on a pipe on my grease gun. It took many attempts but I finally got straight in the zerk and it took grease. If the u joint was installed with the zerk facing the engine or the zerk was on the cup the job would probably been much easier. Thanks.
 

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Gen 1 2025R
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I have a Gen1 2025R also. I cut an access hole in my cowling by the pedals. I was careful to make sure there were no electric wires behind were I was cutting . This lets me unbolt the metal panel to get to the U-joint. Then I purchased a 180 deg swivel grease coupler and ground a little bit off of the back of the coupler while at the desired angle. This grinding of the back helped greatly to reach and lock onto the u-joint fitting. For me it was worth the effort to do all of the above. Greasing once a season is easy for me now, before it was a pain in the a**. My 3D printed plastic cover was done before I retired and had access to a 3D printer.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have a Gen1 2025R also. I cut an access hole in my cowling by the pedals. I was careful to make sure there were no electric wires behind were I was cutting . This lets me unbolt the metal panel to get to the U-joint. Then I purchased a 180 deg swivel grease coupler and ground a little bit off of the back of the coupler while at the desired angle. This grinding of the back helped greatly to reach and lock onto the u-joint fitting. For me it was worth the effort to do all of the above. Greasing once a season is easy for me now, before it was a pain in the a**. My 3D printed plastic cover was done before I retired and had access to a 3D printer.

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Great. I will look mine over and give it a try. Thanks.
 

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MTB98 - I did not take the CAD data with me when I retired. I will contact a former coworker to see if theres a chance the CAD data is still in their system. I will contact you if it is.
 

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2015 2025r 62mmm h130 af10f plow forks 62 disc ripper and a woods m5 Dixie mower
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On my Gen 1 I loosen the plastic cowlings round the steering column and there is a small access panel on the right side to remove which gives direct access to the u joint. It doesn’t take that long to loosen the plastic panel and move it out of the way.
many pictures
I have a Gen1 2025R also. I cut an access hole in my cowling by the pedals. I was careful to make sure there were no electric wires behind were I was cutting . This lets me unbolt the metal panel to get to the U-joint. Then I purchased a 180 deg swivel grease coupler and ground a little bit off of the back of the coupler while at the desired angle. This grinding of the back helped greatly to reach and lock onto the u-joint fitting. For me it was worth the effort to do all of the above. Greasing once a season is easy for me now, before it was a pain in the a**. My 3D printed plastic cover was done before I retired and had access to a 3D printer.

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Cool what size hole is that and what did you use to cover it
 

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I have a Gen1 2025R also. I cut an access hole in my cowling by the pedals. I was careful to make sure there were no electric wires behind were I was cutting . This lets me unbolt the metal panel to get to the U-joint. Then I purchased a 180 deg swivel grease coupler and ground a little bit off of the back of the coupler while at the desired angle. This grinding of the back helped greatly to reach and lock onto the u-joint fitting. For me it was worth the effort to do all of the above. Greasing once a season is easy for me now, before it was a pain in the a**. My 3D printed plastic cover was done before I retired and had access to a 3D printer.

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Impressive!!!
 

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I have a Gen2 2025R and greased the drive shafts yesterday. It took about 10 minutes total. The secret? I greased 3 of the 4 zerks (both for the Front Wheel Drive - easy), the rear for the main drive shaft easy.

Secret, my son was still home from college (Ag Engineering Student, Power Systems major at Iowa State) and he greased the drive shaft on the motor end. It's not what you know, it's who you know LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have a Gen1 2025R also. I cut an access hole in my cowling by the pedals. I was careful to make sure there were no electric wires behind were I was cutting . This lets me unbolt the metal panel to get to the U-joint. Then I purchased a 180 deg swivel grease coupler and ground a little bit off of the back of the coupler while at the desired angle. This grinding of the back helped greatly to reach and lock onto the u-joint fitting. For me it was worth the effort to do all of the above. Greasing once a season is easy for me now, before it was a pain in the a**. My 3D printed plastic cover was done before I retired and had access to a 3D printer.

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Found that metal panel. Your cover looks great. Wish the manufacturer would have made it like that or at least showed us that option in the owner's manual. Thanks again.
 

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Gen 1 2025R
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Cool what size hole is that and what did you use to cover it
[/QUOTE]
The cutout is approximately 3” x 6” and I made the plastic cover at work with a 3D plastic printer before I retired. If I were making a cover today, post retirement, I would cut a piece of 1/8” flat plastic stock to the profile and use #6 sheets metal screws to screw on.
 

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Bobs2025R- I’m glad you got your needle tip grease gun attachment to work for you. I tried using the same and I thought the u-joint was taking grease but after looking at the joint closely I realized that the needle tip was just making a mess and not getting into the joint. When I switched to the 180 deg. swivel grease coupler with the locking jaws on it I could hear and visually see the grease getting were it needed to go.
 
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