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I tried a needle tip and couldn't get it to work. We used to have one in our service station that is indented/rounded on the end and skinny for small Ujoints. You have to be dead on straight to keep grease from going around the sides instead of past the little spring-loaded ball.

With the needle tip, there's just no way to form a seal at all. You're just pushing on that little ball and hoping (falsely) that grease will go in. Like pushing fluid into a filled bucket.

JD should use a much better non-zerked Ujoint or use a constant velocity joint or joint like was on the driveshaft of our 1983 240D Benz, kinda like a sidewall of a tire with metal-reinforced cutouts for the 4 bolts. Good for > 26 years and 215k miles. Had to retighten the bolts once. Was 65 hp, good enough for even a big tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I tried a needle tip and couldn't get it to work. We used to have one in our service station that is indented/rounded on the end and skinny for small Ujoints. You have to be dead on straight to keep grease from going around the sides instead of past the little spring-loaded ball.

With the needle tip, there's just no way to form a seal at all. You're just pushing on that little ball and hoping (falsely) that grease will go in. Like pushing fluid into a filled bucket.

JD should use a much better non-zerked Ujoint or use a constant velocity joint or joint like was on the driveshaft of our 1983 240D Benz, kinda like a sidewall of a tire with metal-reinforced cutouts for the 4 bolts. Good for > 26 years and 215k miles. Had to retighten the bolts once. Was 65 hp, good enough for even a big tractor.
The needle tip worked for me and I have used one for 30 years at the repair shop. Maybe it's not for everyone. I agree JD (or Yanmar in this case) could have made this easier for owners to maintain.
 
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