[NN2025R]

My 2013 2025R quit. Restarted and quit several times. Lights and flashers work. Battery has 12.8 volts, with clean terminals and only two years old. Now nothing happens when I turn the key. No lights on dash, nothing. Removed dash covering to check for mouse nest/damage. All looks good. Bypassed seat sensor - no change. Will try to find neutral sensor next.

First question - I can't remember if the glow plug light, and other dash light should come on if in gear when I turn the key. Should they?

Other than continuing to test the sensors does anyone have any ideas on what this could be? I could not find this issue in the forums. If I missed it, I will appreciate your letting me know. Thanks.

 

[Jimmy Walker]

Battery could show good voltage but dead short once you put any load on it. Can you try another battery or jumper cables?

 

[trav]

Stupid suggestion here but make sure the PTO switch isn't on 😁

 

[ClydeLogan]

Agree - try jumper cable start before getting too far into trouble shooting. And, sometimes, for some reason, jumper cables will not work with a bad deere battery, but will start the tractor if the battery in the tractor is disconnected from the cables, and the jumper cables from another battery are connected directly to the tractor battery cables. Or, so I've read here on GTT, but never experienced it for myself.

 

[dixie460]

No dash lights = no power. I'd take and clean the battery terminals and cable ends and go from there.

And yes it's possible your battery is too weak and the voltage you see is just a surface charge.

 

[SulleyBear]

Load test, Load test, load test. Simple Voltage tells you nothing helpful, really. Plenty of batteries test 12.8 volts and the minute a load is applied, they drop lock a rock to single digits. My 1 series OEM battery failed at 15 months of age.

Yes, you can take the battery out and have some one test it for you, but really, having the ability to do it yourself is SO much easier and faster. The tools cheap and the information it provides is very helpful. Battery load test and charging system output rate.

Amazon.com: Schumacher Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp : Automotive

Buy Schumacher Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp: Battery Testers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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[Big]

Dead battery.

 

[ClydeLogan]

Load test, Load test, load test. Simple Voltage tells you nothing helpful, really. Plenty of batteries test 12.8 volts and the minute a load is applied, they drop lock a rock to single digits. My 1 series OEM battery failed at 15 months of age.

Yes, you can take the battery out and have some one test it for you, but really, having the ability to do it yourself is SO much easier and faster. The tools cheap and the information it provides is very helpful. Battery load test and charging system output rate.

Amazon.com: Schumacher Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp : Automotive

Buy Schumacher Battery Load Tester and Voltmeter - 100 Amp: Battery Testers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I'll see your Schumacher and raise you a Battery Tender.

Looks like they were made in the same Chinese factory, don't they?

 

[jgayman]

I'll see your Schumacher and raise you a Battery Tender.

Looks like they were made in the same Chinese factory, don't they?

I’ll see your Battery Tender and raise you a Harbor Freight ($19). Agree, it looks like these all came from the same factory.

 

[Gizmo2]

Our Gator died a couple of days ago and just like our 2320, a lot of stupid unexplained electrical stuff was going on.
My load tester...

Jumper started the Gator, went out an bought a new battery.

 

[Superglidesport]

Something's better than nothing. A fixed load tester like those mentioned can produce inaccurate results. The common result of passing a high capacity, partially sulfated battery. The fixed load is not sufficient to properly test the battery.

A variable / carbon pile type load tester is required for accurate results. An accurate test load is equivalent to 1/2 the battery CCA rating or 3X the AH rating. Initial testing requires the battery to be near 100% state of charge / 12.6 VDC minimum open circuit test prior to applying the appropriate load. A discharged battery should be charged first.

Apply the calculated load for 15 seconds and loaded voltage should remain above 10 VDC minimum to confirm the battery condition. Above 10 VDC under load = OK. Below 10 VDC = Bad battery.

An alternative to a variable load tester would be a conductance / capacitance type tester that uses an algorithm measuring open circuit voltage, capacitance, resistance, recovery and ambient temperature against its CCA / AH rating.

Again, something is better than nothing but these older, fixed load testers can also get you into trouble especially when they pass a high capacity, partially sulfated battery as this condition will only continue to deteriorate.

Another common issue we see with our JD tractor batteries is a sudden high resistance or open-circuit condition. This occurs when an internal cell connector breaks or becomes partially disconnected and that's that. It's the equivalent of an abnormal high resistance condition or broken wire in a circuit. What causes it? Jouncing, jarring or vibration over time.

 

[rwmeyer]

i would start by checking battery voltage at battery terminals and then at starter!
My 322 was a little sluggish starting this year. About a month ago, it started and about a half hour into mowing it shut down... and no dash lights. I figured battery and grabbed my meter. As I was placing the meter lead on the pos battery terminal, the pos cable fell off! Looking at the wire, genuine JD cuz it was green! I stripped the cable, cleaned and soldered a new terminal on and I was mowing again!

The pos battery cable is known for corroding UNDER the insulation and totally invisible by looking. Bob

 

[ClydeLogan]

Another common issue we see with our JD tractor batteries is a sudden high resistance or open-circuit condition. This occurs when an internal cell connector breaks or becomes partially disconnected and that's that. It's the equivalent of an abnormal high resistance condition or broken wire in a circuit. What causes it? Jouncing, jarring or vibration over time.

Is this what causes the "pop" that some folks report they hear when they first get a no-start with the Strongbox batteries?

 

[PaDave]

You already have the best load tester, the starting circuit on the tractor. Check the battery voltage while cranking and go from there. If it stays at 12.x follow it through the safety switches to the solenoid on the starter motor.

 

[Superglidesport]

You already have the best load tester, the starting circuit on the tractor. Check the battery voltage while cranking and go from there. If it stays at 12.x follow it through the safety switches to the solenoid on the starter motor.

Load test? Yes. Battery test? NO. But I do agree if the battery will crank the engine at sufficient speed to build compression and heat then it's time to look elsewhere for the no start problem.

A better use of the starter to load test the cranking circuit would be to disable the fuel supply and crank for 10-15 seconds while measuring battery voltage. The battery voltage should never drop below 10.5-10 VDC under this procedure.

 

[NN2025R]

I will try another battery. Forgot to mention that I checked the fuses and they were all good. PTO switch is in the off position. I was noT using the PTO when the tractor quit, so I am thinking it should be ok. But will look at the PTO switch sensor. Thanks.

 

[NN2025R]

Thanks all.
Bought a load tester and checked the battery once the rain stopped. Battery is fine. Will keep checking safety sensors when things dry out a little.

 

[BigBlue]

Double check the fuses. If the dash doesn't light up at all but headlights and flashers work that seems like a likely candidate. Do you hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the key on? Also, look for loose electrical connectors.

Rob

 

[NN2025R]

Delivered to my dealer last Friday. After testing everything they determined that the ignition was bad. Problem solved. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[RalphVa]

See the postings re my 2025R not cranking. See in the last posting same problem was mine.

Turns out, the ignition switch was badly corroded, and the starter relay was bad (or the switch caused it). Would start with full recharge of the battery.

Waiting for parts now. Think they'll try to locate some at other dealerships if JD UAW does not get back to work.