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Just acquired this tractor. Came with a dozer bucket and a blade on the 3 pt. Am operating a hops farm. Wanted to grade my road to the farm. Have a 3 mile drive way. Does this tractor have a "float" for the 3pt hitch? All I seem to be able to do is dig. Can't seem to keep the blade at a constant height. Any help would be AWESOME! The salesman told me there was a float, if there is I can't seem to figure it out.

Thanks!!!!
 

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Since the 3PH doesn't have any down pressure other than gravity it is basically always in float. There is nothing to stop it from raising up and the only thing limiting how far down it goes is the position of your rock shaft lever.

Having said that, I have experienced a similar situation as you describe when using my back blade to grade. It is a bit tricky setting how far down the rack shaft goes as depending on how you have the top-link set the blade will typically want to dig in.

You can reduce the angle of attack on the cutting edge by shortening the top-link.
 

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The 3 point is always in float. It does not have down pressure. You have to set the height with the handle.
What kind of rear blade do you have? I like a box blade over a regular rear blade.
 

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Just acquired this tractor. Came with a dozer bucket and a blade on the 3 pt. Am operating a hops farm. Wanted to grade my road to the farm. Have a 3 mile drive way. Does this tractor have a "float" for the 3pt hitch? All I seem to be able to do is dig. Can't seem to keep the blade at a constant height. Any help would be AWESOME! The salesman told me there was a float, if there is I can't seem to figure it out.
It sounds as if you have a rear blade. As jgayman pointed out, shortening the top link makes the blade less aggressive. Also, as others have said, the 3-pt is inherently floating.

I have a A&B Eagle grader ditcher blade. http://ab-eagleline.com/download/i/mark_dl/u/2005497/11956808/Grader%20Ditcher%20Blade.jpg I can rotate the blade 360°. I rotate it 165, 180, or 195 from straight and basically drag it backwards. That works on my gravel driveway. That being said, a box blade would probably be much better and is on my wish list. Rear blades tend to naturally cut the low spots and dump on the high spots. Not what one wants. I have considered adding rear wheels to mine to make it behave more like a grader and cut the high spots and dump in the low spots.

I got the blade used from the dealer when I got the tractor. Probably someone traded it for a box blade. :unknown: :dunno:

Just out of curiosity, where in Northern Idaho are you. Many years ago, I used to regularly travel US 95 into Canada. There were hop poles in a field East of 95 between Bonner's Ferry and the border. I don't recall ever seeing hops growing there though.
 

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It’s a technique your going to have to figure out with time. Unfortunately, blades aren’t just drop and drive on. I used to run road graders and they are one of the more challenging contraptions to master. Just take your time with it. Go slow and use your tires to tell you where the dips and humps are. Once you feel the rise of a hump, drop your blade delaying it to how fast you think the blade will get there. When you feel the dip, lift up slowly timing it. Depends on your speed and it takes a minute to get it down. Maybe turn it 180 degrees and drag it with the “flatter” side if you don’t want to dig in so much. What’s a dozer bucket?


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I know there is a float function for the loader but I am not sure there is for the 3pt hitch . Position control is the only setting I think, but I am not 100% sure.
What about the draft control? That should keep it at the set level
 

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It’s a technique your going to have to figure out with time. Unfortunately, blades aren’t just drop and drive on. I used to run road graders and they are one of the more challenging contraptions to master. Just take your time with it. Go slow and use your tires to tell you where the dips and humps are. Once you feel the rise of a hump, drop your blade delaying it to how fast you think the blade will get there. When you feel the dip, lift up slowly timing it. Depends on your speed and it takes a minute to get it down. Maybe turn it 180 degrees and drag it with the “flatter” side if you don’t want to dig in so much. What’s a dozer bucket?


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This is what I finally learned to do on our driveway. If the blade is heavy enough, running it turned backwards produces much better results, and I can drop it all the way down and let it work. Smooths and fills in the low spots much better, in gravel or dirt.

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Sounds like a land plane would be more friendlier to him, than a box blade.
 

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Sounds like a land plane would be more friendlier to him, than a box blade.
This all day.
3 mile driveway? I wouldn't be looking at anything except a land plane/land leveler.
 

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Something else you could try, flip the blade around.
This will let it knock the tops off of small mounds, and fill in nicely, but wont dig in at all.

I would agree though that with a drive that long, a land plane would be a much better implement to use should you have any thoughts about getting something better, but I also understand cost can also be a factor too, so sometimes you gotta run what you have on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is what I finally learned to do on our driveway. If the blade is heavy enough, running it turned backwards produces much better results, and I can drop it all the way down and let it work. Smooths and fills in the low spots much better, in gravel or dirt.

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That is what I found out. Turn it around works perfect! Am in Orofino( north central Idaho)

Thanks for all the input!
 
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