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2030 - Odd oil leak around shift levers

6K views 39 replies 6 participants last post by  bgsmith 
#1 ·
Yet Another 2030 rebuild post! I certainly appreciate all the insights and tips from everyone.

I have noticed a periodic transmission oil leak from around the gear shift levers. The leak is (so far) not consistent so I do not yet know what specifically is the trigger (e.g. using the clutch, certain gear positions, heat, and so on). The first symptom was oil on the bottom of the transmission that was not obviously from the transmission oil cover or the forward transmission drain plug. A few weeks later I noticed oil running down the side of the transmission from under the shield that covers the top of the transmission around the gear shifters. I pulled the shield off yesterday and found oil coating the underside of each gear shift boot.

Oil is not leaking every time I run the tractor. I have started and moved the tractor, e.g. driving out to the mailbox on the road, several times since pulling the shield but so far no fresh oil is showing.

Before I pull the cover off does any one have any tips or suggestions on what to look for? Below is the specific page from JD parts (independent pto, no hi-lo).

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#3 ·
Thanks Tx Jim. I looked there. It does not seem cracked nor is there oil in front of the shift cover - which is where I would expect oil from a cracked seal drain line to be. Given the presence of oil on the under side of both shift level boots, I suspect something under the cover is leaking.

I also just realized that some oil must be leaking from the rockshaft drop rate throttle valve as there was also oil under the rear edge of the shield. I need to make sure that the lock nut is more than just finger tight. But I did see oil under the shift lever boots so will keep checking.

Green Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Toy


thank you
 
#4 ·
My WAG is oil line(s) or O-ring for oil line that go into plate 28 of the drawing you posted is/are leaking
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#26 · (Edited)
My WAG is oil line(s) or O-ring for oil line that go into plate 28 of the drawing you posted is/are leaking View attachment 841058
Fourth update (third below).

I removed the transmission cover and exposed the interior side of the clutch control valve and as well as the top of the oil lines as shown above by @Zebrafive. See pictures below. The retainer (item 20) has a crack in the left upper corner. More importantly, the 2 o-rings (21) and 2 o-rings (7) are missing. The crack in the retainer I judge as not really important since the retainer still does its job which is holding the oil lines in place when the transmission cover and (pto) clutch control valve are put in place. Will pick up the o-rings today. @Zebrafive - your WAG is on target. No guarantees that this is the root cause. I think this missing o-rings reduce or stop oil spray from the gears below. Not sure how I can put o-rings #7 correctly given that I cannot take off the retainer but will see.

Transmission interior. Retainer cracks in upper right:
Green Circuit component Electronic component Electronic engineering Electronic device


Underside of transmission cover:
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#5 ·
Thanks. I made sure the drop rate valve lock nut was tight along with a new o ring to eliminate one source of the oil dripping down the side of the transmission. If I still find noticable oil on the sides then I will dive in and check out the o rings and possible oil line damage. There have been 45+ years of maintenance on this thing so I really cannot say what has or has not been done except for the engine rebuild and what I have done. I can see hints that in the last years of maintenance prior to the engine work, the standard of work was questionable. I replaced the thermostat the other day after draining and flushing the coolant. No gasket and thermostat that did not quite fit correctly. So lots to learn!

best regards
 
#6 ·
No gasket for the thermostat! Maybe there is no gasket under the shifter cover?
 
#8 ·
Are these transmission/rear axle assembly Vented somewhere..??

My guess is vent is plugged maybe if they have one.
 
#9 ·
The fill cap is also the vent
 
#12 ·
Update on 8 June. Finally got back to the 2030 and this problem. I got sidetracked with having to adjust toe in which in turn meant new tie rod ends, etc, along with changing out a leaking fuel tank shut off valve.

When running the tractor with the shift level boots pulled up, transmission oil gradually seeps up around the base of each lever filling the well around the lever and then overflowing down the side. If I shift into reverse with the left shifter then I also see air bubbles in the oil pooling around the base of the shift lever.

The transmission dipstick is a the full mark when engine on slow idle, and rockshaft lowered.

Lance at Bundy Bears Shed has a video removing a similar cover on a Mannheim 2030 () with a good view of the bottom of the cover at the ~9.18 mark. Perhaps something is spraying oil up into the base of the cover and leaking through the bushing around the base of the lever. Guess I need to open it up.
 
#14 ·
Items to check for leaks.

Plug #1
O-Ring #6
Pin #7
Plug # 10
Plug # 11
Thanks Michael. I am pretty sure 10 and 11 are not leaking as leaks here would (should?) up in front of the PTO lever and just behind the steering column. But I am just guessing. I have plug 1 on order as there is some sort of orange rubber plug there now but again I think a leak here would be directly down the left side of the transmission care.

I recall seeinjg somewhere that the two drain plugs labelled 5 are for pressure meters (?) to test correct functioning of the PTO or clutch (cannot recall which). But will definitely take a look.

thanks!
 
#17 ·
Other things to consider:
Plate 28 might be loose
O-ring(s) 26, 27 on tubes to plate 28 might be damaged
Tubes key 8, 9, 18, 19 to plate 28 may have crack/split/pin hole leak, or damage where o-ring seals (out of round, flat spot, rust/dirt)
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#18 ·
Other things to consider:
Plate 28 might be loose
O-ring(s) 26, 27 on tubes to plate 28 might be damaged
Tubes key 8, 9, 18, 19 to plate 28 may have crack/split/pin hole leak, or damage where o-ring seals (out of round, flat spot, rust/dirt)
Thanks @Tx Jim and @Zebrafive. I really appreciate the suggestions. I need to clean the shop a bit then I can tear into this problem. Also need to get the first hay cutting done when we get a decent break in the weather.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Update - work in progress.

In thinking about this leak, I realized that there was no obvious pressure at all. The oil is just slowly welling around the ball on the shift lever and the retaining snap ring. I pulled one shift lever expecting the see item 5 in the image below (ball held on to lever with snap rings). The whole assembly included original snap ring and bushing (parts 9, 10 respectively).

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Instead, I found that the ball was held on with a roll pin (spring pin). Which was puzzling. Note, that item 5 (above) is annotated with "This part has been substituted". The substitution is below. Note the spring pin and, just as important, a packing o-ring. I could not find any parts diagram for the 2030 (pc2189) that showed where this o-ring went so I went searching using the R29936 part number.

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This part is found on many tractors including pc4143 (1830, 2030, 2130). There still was not a parts diagram for pc4143 so I looked at the 3030, 3130 diagram (pc4127) and found the o-ring located below the snap ring and bushing which hold the gear shift lever in place (part 7 below).

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Needless to say, the o-ring was not present on my tractor. I also do not know if this alternate part set was original when the tractor was new or a recent replacement. Given that the black paint on the lever is hardly worn where the lever intersects with ths shifting mechanism in the transmission, I suspect it is a replacement and whomever did the work, just did not get the o-ring. In any case, the o-rings along with new bushings and snap rings are on order. I will provide an update towards the end of next week on results - but am hopeful.

All of the excellent suggestions above were predicated on incomplete information in my original post. I should have been more descriptive about the nature of the leak (no obvious pressure) at a minimum. And I could still have the problem after the new o-rings on installed. More to come!

regards
 
#20 ·
IIRC the O-ring holds/seals the boot to the bottom of the sheet metal cover. It goes over the bottom of the shift boot.
 
#21 ·
Update - waiting on new o-ring, snap ring and bushing. However, I did more inspection of the bowls where the shift levers sit and found something interesting. The o-ring sits on a machined shelf just above the cup in the bowl where the bottom of the ball on the lever sits. In both bowls there is a small hole that sits just above the shelf. Pictures below. The left bowl has an o-ring pick tip for scale and pointing to the hole. The other is the right bowl.

The o-ring sits on the shelf the pick points to, the lever and ball sit on the o-ring. The assembly is held in place by a bushing and snap rignt.

The hole in the left bowl does not look quite like a machined hole. Both holes sit just above the o-ring and could potentially be the source of the oil leak. Both holes are in more or less the same position in the bowl. Are these normal or possibly the oil source?

Left:
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Right:
Green Automotive tire Grass Terrestrial plant Circle
 
#31 ·
An update with speculation on potential cause.

Recap - After the hydraulic oil heats up (probably exacerbated by a leaking rockshaft), oil will very slowly well up around both shift levers, then overflow and run down the sides of the clutch housing. I have not yet solved this problem as root cause is still a mystery.

I have also noted oil dripping on the shop floor under the tractor back end. And looking at the back end see oil deposits around the drawbar supports and under the SCV couplers. An early project with this tractor was to rebuild the breakaway couplers - they were basically rusted in place. I used Deeres ISO coupler replacement kits. I have been assuming all along that the oil I see here was due to my work on the couplers. (e.g.somehow did not get the o-rings or seals seated correctly as I am not really familiar with hydraulic system and repairs).

Below is a not so good picture. but what I have handy at the moment, of the right side. Oil is visible on the drawbar shelf. The right coupler is also visible.

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle


I recently taped a shop towel under each coupler to verify the leak and see which lever was leaking (silver levers partially visible under the coupler caps). Vey little oil, just a drop or two really. But fresh oil on the around the top link anchor point and elsewhere.

So, now I am wondering if the hydraulic oil is getting too hot, and/or foaming in the transmission case. As it foams it wells up around the shift levers. And eventually will well out the fill cap. I have not actually seen the latter (yet). The oil cooler does not get warm and the return line from the cooler stays cool.

Does this seem possible? I will be fixing the rockshaft this fall as there is a noticable leak and while the cover is off inspect the transmission housing for dirt. The oil has been changed twice and the filter and screen are new and clean.

Apologies for being long winded (as usual).

best
 
#32 ·
Is hyd oil lever at the full mark when checked with engine operating at idle speed?
If your tractor has hyd pto or hyd hi-lo I think leak in the control valves or "oil supply tubes" for these control valves are cause of oil leak at trans shift levers. I suggest to temporarily remove & cap supply line that supplies scv's to determine if that affects hyd operation & oil temperature. I think oil around 3pt centerlink attachment point is caused by leak on forward portion of scv barrels.
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the reply Jim. The oil is at the full mark with engine at idle and 3 pt lowered. This particular machine has the hydraulic PTO. I have not yet checked the oil pressure tranisition from PTO off to PTO on and back but am planning to do so. If the oil pressure does not transition correctly that could signify a leak in the pto control valve or pto brake valve. When I pulled the clutch housing off I could not visualize how a leak in one of these valves would cause the oil to well up around both shift levers. Below is the bottom side of the clutch housing cover.

Motor vehicle Automotive engine gasket Gas Automotive exterior Auto part


I will cap the supply line to the scv valves and see what changes.

The scv couplers were in bad shape including the interior of the housing so leakage there could be the source. I will do some checks to try and verify. Stand by pressure in the couplers is on the mark, not that that signifies much other than the main pump is working.

thanks

best regards
 
#33 ·
From earlier pictures, it looks like he has only Independent PTO, and no Hi-Lo.
My SCV couplers (same as pictured) leak at the O-rings on the lever that come up from the bottom to engage/disengage the ball or poppet in the hydraulic hose tips.
Lever is key 24. 4 is a backup ring, 5 is the o-ring, 15 is spring, 14 is a snap ring, 13 is a plug.
Plug 13 will be destroyed when removed. You will need new ones
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#35 ·
From earlier pictures, it looks like he has only Independent PTO, and no Hi-Lo.
My SCV couplers (sam
e as pictured) leak at the O-rings on the lever that come up from the bottom to engage/disengage the ball or poppet in the hydraulic hose tips.
Lever is key 24. 4 is a backup ring, 5 is the o-ring, 15 is spring, 14 is a snap ring, 13 is a plug.
Plug 13 will be destroyed when removed. You will need new ones.
That is correct - independent pto but no hi-lo. I also replaced the original breakaway couplers with Deere's (parker sourced) ISO conversion kits. I only have one implement that needs SCV hook ups (NH 1465 mower conditioner) but 2 tractors so needed to covert. There is minor leakage on the handle but not enough to explain the amount seen on the back end.

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#36 ·
You may need the other seals, rather than for the levers. In my case it was the lever O-rings had worn out.
 
#37 ·
Short update. Have not yet followed Jim's suggestion to cap SCV line. Just have not made it to hydraulic shop for suitable plug.

I did test the independent pto pressure using 2 gauges. Pressure transitioned correctly with both gauges at zero in the middle of a slow transition. Pressure was 150 psi for brake and pto. This is normal for earlier versions of the 2030. According to the serial number on the tractor, 217127T, this tractor was made in the last year of US production (1975). Pressure for later versions of the 2030 are supposed to be close to 125. I have noticed a few other features on this tractor that seem to be from earlier years.
 
#40 ·
I tried several fixes for the oil leak around the shift levers but nothing was effective. During the early winter I noted that on really cold days it took longer for the leak to show up. I started to think that over heating of the hydraulic oil was a contributing factor. One of the problems this tractor had was a leaky rockshaft piston and I wondered if the leak was so substantial that the main hydraulic pump was effectively running full time.

This past January I pulled off the rockshaft cover and used the Deere rockshaft reseal kit to replace all o-rings, back up rings, and other components. I also replaced the thermal relief valve. A prior owner had installed a 3rd party relief valve and I choose to replace rather than test and reinstall. The o-rings in the piston valves were shot - gone or very hard. Other o-rings and gaskets were also distressed.

I have been using the 2030 for several hours at a time this past 2 months without any leaks around the shift levers. My "theory of operation" for the leak is that the the rockshaft piston was leaking enough that the main hydraulic pump ran continuously. The leaks and constant operation over heated the oil and triggered foaming which, in turn, caused the oil leaking up around the shift levers.

I will be mowing hay and baling with this tractor sometime in mid to late June which should be a definitive test to show whether or not this particular problem is resolved. So far evidence suggests that it is but I have not worked the tractor hard under load to be sure. Oil would always start leaking within 20 minutes or less dependent on outside temperature.
 
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