[userjh161]

Yesterday when adjusting the hydraulic top link I noticed a steady stream of fluid running out of the right fender liner. Took it off today and this fitting is leaking when I hit the lever to shorten the top link.

It was finger tight when I got to it. I tightened it down as much as I could and slowed the leak, but there is still a pretty good amount where the 90 deg fitting enters the body. The nut is tight but it seems like the 90 deg fitting needs about another quarter turn to seat, but, it won't align with the hard line anymore if I do that. Any ideas?

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Herminator]

Unless I am misunderstanding you, It doesn’t work like your thinking. Tighten the nut without turning the fitting itself. There is an o ring on the back side of that nut..Since the nut was finger tight hopefully the O-ring is ok and you can just tighten the nut.


like this.

 

[userjh161]

Unless I am misunderstanding you, It doesn’t work like your thinking. Tighten the nut without turning the fitting itself. There is an o ring on the back side of that nut..Since the nut was finger tight hopefully the O-ring is ok and you can just tighten the nut.


like this.
View attachment 787491 View attachment 787492 View attachment 787493

Yes sir, that's what I did (tightened the nut) but no dice, still quite a leak. Only other thing I could think of to try was tightening the fitting itself but that causes alignment issues.

I just started using the top n tilt, didn't notice a leak before.. I wonder if the o-ring is gouged or missing. Doesn't appear that the fitting can be removed without loosening the other fittings due to interference.

It's less than a year old so a warranty call is probably my best option. I thought this might be a simple fix but I really don't want to tear into it anymore than I have. Was hoping to avoid being tractor-less for weeks, I won't know what to do with myself.

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk

 

[SRG]

Are you not able to hold the 90 with a wrench, while you crank on the nut?
You should be able to get an open end wrench over the 90, right underneath where your finger is in the top pic.

 

[Big]

It's less than a year old so a warranty call is probably my best option

See if they can get you a new ring. I have a hard time calling on little things like this too. Should be an easy fix.

 

[userjh161]

Are you not able to hold the 90 with a wrench, while you crank on the nut?
You should be able to get an open end wrench over the 90, right underneath where your finger is in the top pic.

Yes sir, tried it at varying stages of nut tightness until about as tight as I could get it with a 12" wrench. Have the tire off so access is decent. The fluid runs out from between the nut and the threads on the fitting.

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Zebrafive]

I am betting damaged or missing O-ring. Let us know what you find.

 

[rwmeyer]

User, If machine is still under warrantee, take it to your dealer! If at some point in time after the warrantee expires and it leaks again, it will be on record that the JD dealer did the repairs. It's a quick job to do and if the service man is REALLY SLOW, it'll be about an hour...1/2 hour is am more realistic time!

The fix is simple: remove fitting, replace o-ring, reinstall fitting, test, and done.

A little about the fitting. This fittings has straight threads and no matter how tight you tighten the fitting, it's gonna leak. The o-ring is what prevents leakage. Typically, this type fitting is screwed in approx. 3 turns and then up to 1 turn more for the correct alignment. And then there's the o-ring! This can and usually will give you problems. Size is one issue, but can be determined by identifying the size of the fitting you have and looking online for the correct o-ring for that size fitting. The fitting size can best be determined by measuring the OD of the thread. Online charts will tell you the fitting "size"... #6, #12... Once you determine the o-ring size you need to get one! Box stores have a good assortment of o-rings, but designed for water systems and will start leaking in about 2 months when used with oil systems! You need an o-ring made of a material to be used with petroleum based fluids. This is typically Nitril/Buna-N. Oh, and then there-s the hardness of the o-ring! This is typically spec'd as" Duro 70" or Duro 90". This info... hardness needed and hardness available... may be online, don't know.

OK, let's say you've got everything you need and are ready to put this back together. Start fitting into tapped hole and turn about 3 turns. Turn more until fitting doesn't quite line up with tubing. Move tubing towards fitting and rotate fitting at the same time...the two should meet/fit together. Start tubing nut onto fitting until finger tight and back off 1/2 turn. Next is where you can into trouble, and that's tightening nut & o-ring. Too loose, it'll leak, too tight, it'll probably also leak! SNUG nut up with a wrench...and snug is normal pressure on the wrench and not "one more grunt"! Start tractor operate cylinder, and check for leaks. If leaking, shut down, move control levers to release pressure (I don't know if you have open center or closed center valve), and tighten nut a flat on the nut. Recheck for leaks.

SOO! there's your "simple fix" and how it can be screwed up! Bob

 

[SRG]

I am betting damaged or missing O-ring. Let us know what you find.

Be my guess as well. Not much else to it.

 

[userjh161]

User, If machine is still under warrantee, take it to your dealer! If at some point in time after the warrantee expires and it leaks again, it will be on record that the JD dealer did the repairs. It's a quick job to do and if the service man is REALLY SLOW, it'll be about an hour...1/2 hour is am more realistic time!

The fix is simple: remove fitting, replace o-ring, reinstall fitting, test, and done.

A little about the fitting. This fittings has straight threads and no matter how tight you tighten the fitting, it's gonna leak. The o-ring is what prevents leakage. Typically, this type fitting is screwed in approx. 3 turns and then up to 1 turn more for the correct alignment. And then there's the o-ring! This can and usually will give you problems. Size is one issue, but can be determined by identifying the size of the fitting you have and looking online for the correct o-ring for that size fitting. The fitting size can best be determined by measuring the OD of the thread. Online charts will tell you the fitting "size"... #6, #12... Once you determine the o-ring size you need to get one! Box stores have a good assortment of o-rings, but designed for water systems and will start leaking in about 2 months when used with oil systems! You need an o-ring made of a material to be used with petroleum based fluids. This is typically Nitril/Buna-N. Oh, and then there-s the hardness of the o-ring! This is typically spec'd as" Duro 70" or Duro 90". This info... hardness needed and hardness available... may be online, don't know.

OK, let's say you've got everything you need and are ready to put this back together. Start fitting into tapped hole and turn about 3 turns. Turn more until fitting doesn't quite line up with tubing. Move tubing towards fitting and rotate fitting at the same time...the two should meet/fit together. Start tubing nut onto fitting until finger tight and back off 1/2 turn. Next is where you can into trouble, and that's tightening nut & o-ring. Too loose, it'll leak, too tight, it'll probably also leak! SNUG nut up with a wrench...and snug is normal pressure on the wrench and not "one more grunt"! Start tractor operate cylinder, and check for leaks. If leaking, shut down, move control levers to release pressure (I don't know if you have open center or closed center valve), and tighten nut a flat on the nut. Recheck for leaks.

SOO! there's your "simple fix" and how it can be screwed up! Bob

Good info thank you! Thanks to everyone else for the suggestions too. My first time doing anything with hydraulic lines was when I installed the lines on the top n tilt cylinders last week, so any info is probably something I didn't know. I'll report back with the resolution.

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Hagak]

User, If machine is still under warrantee, take it to your dealer! If at some point in time after the warrantee expires and it leaks again, it will be on record that the JD dealer did the repairs. It's a quick job to do and if the service man is REALLY SLOW, it'll be about an hour...1/2 hour is am more realistic time!

The fix is simple: remove fitting, replace o-ring, reinstall fitting, test, and done.

A little about the fitting. This fittings has straight threads and no matter how tight you tighten the fitting, it's gonna leak. The o-ring is what prevents leakage. Typically, this type fitting is screwed in approx. 3 turns and then up to 1 turn more for the correct alignment. And then there's the o-ring! This can and usually will give you problems. Size is one issue, but can be determined by identifying the size of the fitting you have and looking online for the correct o-ring for that size fitting. The fitting size can best be determined by measuring the OD of the thread. Online charts will tell you the fitting "size"... #6, #12... Once you determine the o-ring size you need to get one! Box stores have a good assortment of o-rings, but designed for water systems and will start leaking in about 2 months when used with oil systems! You need an o-ring made of a material to be used with petroleum based fluids. This is typically Nitril/Buna-N. Oh, and then there-s the hardness of the o-ring! This is typically spec'd as" Duro 70" or Duro 90". This info... hardness needed and hardness available... may be online, don't know.

OK, let's say you've got everything you need and are ready to put this back together. Start fitting into tapped hole and turn about 3 turns. Turn more until fitting doesn't quite line up with tubing. Move tubing towards fitting and rotate fitting at the same time...the two should meet/fit together. Start tubing nut onto fitting until finger tight and back off 1/2 turn. Next is where you can into trouble, and that's tightening nut & o-ring. Too loose, it'll leak, too tight, it'll probably also leak! SNUG nut up with a wrench...and snug is normal pressure on the wrench and not "one more grunt"! Start tractor operate cylinder, and check for leaks. If leaking, shut down, move control levers to release pressure (I don't know if you have open center or closed center valve), and tighten nut a flat on the nut. Recheck for leaks.

SOO! there's your "simple fix" and how it can be screwed up! Bob

So I follow this advice with cars but since I do not have a trailer to tow my tractor to the dealer a little O-ring replacement under warranty can cost about $200! Does everyone with a CUT just have a trailer? I mean I currently dont cause I have no need to trailer it except on the off chance I need service that I can not do myself.

 

[userjh161]

Update, pressure cut o-ring per the mechanic. Took me longer to bind down than to fix it. He was kind enough to fix it on the trailer for me. Anyway, all good now, thanks everyone.

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk