So I follow this advice with cars but since I do not have a trailer to tow my tractor to the dealer a little O-ring replacement under warranty can cost about $200! Does everyone with a CUT just have a trailer? I mean I currently dont cause I have no need to trailer it except on the off chance I need service that I can not do myself.User, If machine is still under warrantee, take it to your dealer! If at some point in time after the warrantee expires and it leaks again, it will be on record that the JD dealer did the repairs. It's a quick job to do and if the service man is REALLY SLOW, it'll be about an hour...1/2 hour is am more realistic time!
The fix is simple: remove fitting, replace o-ring, reinstall fitting, test, and done.
A little about the fitting. This fittings has straight threads and no matter how tight you tighten the fitting, it's gonna leak. The o-ring is what prevents leakage. Typically, this type fitting is screwed in approx. 3 turns and then up to 1 turn more for the correct alignment. And then there's the o-ring! This can and usually will give you problems. Size is one issue, but can be determined by identifying the size of the fitting you have and looking online for the correct o-ring for that size fitting. The fitting size can best be determined by measuring the OD of the thread. Online charts will tell you the fitting "size"... #6, #12... Once you determine the o-ring size you need to get one! Box stores have a good assortment of o-rings, but designed for water systems and will start leaking in about 2 months when used with oil systems! You need an o-ring made of a material to be used with petroleum based fluids. This is typically Nitril/Buna-N. Oh, and then there-s the hardness of the o-ring! This is typically spec'd as" Duro 70" or Duro 90". This info... hardness needed and hardness available... may be online, don't know.
OK, let's say you've got everything you need and are ready to put this back together. Start fitting into tapped hole and turn about 3 turns. Turn more until fitting doesn't quite line up with tubing. Move tubing towards fitting and rotate fitting at the same time...the two should meet/fit together. Start tubing nut onto fitting until finger tight and back off 1/2 turn. Next is where you can into trouble, and that's tightening nut & o-ring. Too loose, it'll leak, too tight, it'll probably also leak! SNUG nut up with a wrench...and snug is normal pressure on the wrench and not "one more grunt"! Start tractor operate cylinder, and check for leaks. If leaking, shut down, move control levers to release pressure (I don't know if you have open center or closed center valve), and tighten nut a flat on the nut. Recheck for leaks.
SOO! there's your "simple fix" and how it can be screwed up! Bob
2032R dual rear scv leak
Yesterday when adjusting the hydraulic top link I noticed a steady stream of fluid running out of the right fender liner. Took it off today and this fitting is leaking when I hit the lever to shorten the top link.
It was finger tight when I got to it. I tightened it down as much as I could and slowed the leak, but there is still a pretty good amount where the 90 deg fitting enters the body. The nut is tight but it seems like the 90 deg fitting needs about another quarter turn to seat, but, it won't align with the hard line anymore if I do that. Any ideas?
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It was finger tight when I got to it. I tightened it down as much as I could and slowed the leak, but there is still a pretty good amount where the 90 deg fitting enters the body. The nut is tight but it seems like the 90 deg fitting needs about another quarter turn to seat, but, it won't align with the hard line anymore if I do that. Any ideas?
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